raz0r$harP.UK

Have you thought about importing one? It really isn't a hard process to follow and you could probably save some money, compared to average local prices here.

John please don't spam the forums. Only needs one post, in one section. Vijay.

I might add here that you could also do the Customs /Quarantine work yourself. Nice way to save even more money, although not recommended if you don't have patience and a working knowledge of how to fill out the forms.

Here's a post that was put together by tdawg about importing a car without a broker. If you feel that you don't need a broker, here's how you could get your car from Sapporo to Sydney! Vijay //UPDATED 29 AUGUST ** NOTE: I have a pretty bad memory and may have forgotten a step or left something out, If I have just let me know and I will add it in. If you have anything constructive to add just let me know what it is. KEEP ALL PAPERWORK AND EMAILS 1. Finding a car. Best way is to find an exporter working out of Japan that has Australians or English speaking people working for them. You can buy from that dealer’s stock list or you can get them to bid at cars that are for auction. You can even look on Australian brokers sites for cars because these cars are actually just cars from the stock lists of various Japanese exporters. You should always view the auction report for a car before sending any money. This will outline the exact details of the car and most importantly if it’s had an accident. A couple of sample auction sheets. http://members.ii.net/~tfroggydawg/sau/1.jpg http://members.ii.net/~tfroggydawg/sau/2.jpg How the cars are graded. 6 Under 3 years old with less than 10,000 km's - near new 5 Any age with less than 50,000 km's - near perfect condition 4.5 Better than grade 4 (often grade 5 with 50,000+ km's) 4 May need very minor repair or clean 3.5 May require a few small repairs or have high km's 3 Average condition for it's age, probably has some repairs needed 2 Poor condition, badly rusted or in need of major repair 1 Heavily modified car (sometimes used for flood damage also) A Previous accident repair (generally high quality, but not always) RA Very high quality accident repair or very minor accident (almost impossible to see repairs) B Large accident, poor quality accident repair or generally very bad condition A1 Accident repaired car that is also heavily modified, or very minor accident repair ** Current accident damage, still in need of repair, stolen & recovered, etc Inspection legend. Inspection sign A1 Scratch (fist size) U2 Dent (palm size) A2 Scratch (palm size) U3 Dent (larger than U2) A3 Scratch (larger than A2) W1 Wavy Panel (fine) C1 Corrosion W2 Wavy Panel C2 Corrosion (Hole) W3 Wavy Panel (conspicuous) E Tiny Dent X Needs Replacing R Chap Repaired XX Replaced RX Chap Repaired Needs Replacing Y1 Hole Crack (thumb size) S Rust Y2 Crack (palm size) U1 Dent (thumb size) Y3 Crack (larger than Y2) I have personally used Motorworld twice and found them to be great. http://www.motorworldjapan.com/cars/ I have heard many good things about Mark Hocking at Mytrading. http://www.mytrading.org/ *** If you have used other Japanese exporters with great results please let us know so we can add them in. *** 2. Make payment for the car via telegraphic transfer from a bank or online from net banking. The amount you pay is called FOB (freight on board) it includes the car cost plus all costs to get the car on the ship. A typical cost analysis is shown below. Most prices are approximate prices and not exact and would vary depending on your situation. Currency converter - http://www.xe.com/ucc/ FOB * current exchange rate Telegraphic transfer fee – $35 Shipping fees - $2000 Taxes (15% Duty + 10% GST) on the FOB Compliance - $4400 New tyres Alarm/immobiliser system On road costs, stamp duty + licensing and registration 3. Organise compliance with a trusted compliance workshop, generally you pay a deposit. The compliance workshop will also apply for your import approval for you. List of compliance shops can be found at the link above. http://raws.dotars.gov.au/rawswebpublic/RA...age.asp#results SEVS information site http://rvcs-prodweb.dot.gov.au/ 4. Some time before your car arrives you will get a Bill of lading and deregistration papers sent out to you. When car finally arrives you need to contact a customs broker, who will sort out all the paper work and payments at the wharf and present you with a single bill. You don’t have to use a customs broker you can do the paperwork yourself, but I have never done this so can not give advice. After the car has cleared customs the broker will have it delivered to a place of your choosing. If that car has mods on it make sure you get it delivered to your house so you can remove all your mods and replace them with stock parts. This is very important as any after market parts are supposed to be destroyed by the compliance guy. You can see shipping schedules on your states relevant port authority website. http://www.fremantleports.com.au/ 5. Car will be complianced. 6. Ring up the roads and traffic people and get yourself a 48 hour registration number (they are cheap) so you can legally drive your car. Take it to the pits and get it registered, remember to take proof of ownership like an invoice. 7. Congratulations you just imported a car without paying an Australian broker $1000+, Enjoy.

If Roy's coming along I'm there - he's good value! Should I just call and add another to the booking?

HAHAHA Yeah I was(un?)fortunate to only catch the side profile of this show, you all got the full frontal..

I still feel a bit seedy..but I blame that on the rank coffee we bought on the way home. That was foul! Although I did score a free muffin, whoever had the light fingers

Just don't try and stop anymore traffic on your way!

Was a fantastic night..I think it was anyway..

How to replace headunit on a Stagea: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...view=getnewpost

Another alternative is a side mount intercooler, like the Trust / ARC ones.

GTR swaybars are hollow, I think, as opposed to the Whiteline solid swaybars. Plus the 'Blade' ones have adjustable settings, so you can adjust it to your preference - see the swaybars thread that was recently posted. Personally, I'd prefer to have new suspension components on my car rather than second hand ones whose history is not always evident - that's just my opinion though. I've just ordered a set of Whitelines to replace my standard GTSt ones.

Although the value at which it flashes can be set.. I used to think my knock levels were okay.. then I've seen 90% of people have lower knock readings than me Time for a retune..

According to the DOTARS website, the S15 was sold locally to the Australian market from September 2000. This means that the only ways you can bring in a 2001 S15 are Personal Import, and Race / Rally..SEVS is not an option for you. Just remember for Personal Import the car has still to meet the registration requirements of the state you are in. Things like the bonnet pins, the height of the car and carbon bonnet (from what I can see) may be a problem for you.

How's your earthing points? Clean? Upgraded the battery earth?

http://raws.dotars.gov.au/rawswebpublic/RAWPubVehSearch.asp If your car was brought in under another scheme (eg the old CPA scheme), then it won't show up. Vijay

PM sent tdawg.

Ask for ALL the importation papers for the car - the other party has no reason to keep them anyway. This includes: Japanese 'dereg' paper, purchase document from Japan, copy of the Import Approval, receipts and the information from the RAWS showing that the vehicle was complied, shipping document, auction sheet for the car. BTW, on the DOTARS website you can enter the VIN of the car and it will bring up details of the RAWS that did compliance and other info for the car so I'd double check that to be safe. Regarding the km - there's no 100% foolproof way to prove that the km are genuine when a car is imported - things like original logbooks and service receipts help though.Sometimes in auctions if they think something is suspicious it will be noted on the auction sheet.

I think you've got it wrong FAT32. 'RC43' on the engine plate usually refers to the axle (4.3:1 final drive)

tdawg whilst I'm sure a lot of us agree that taking the time to cut out some steps in the import process can go a long way towards saving money, we don't need to see this in every single thread in the imports section.. Vijay

Hey I am looking for a pair of S15 or Series 2 R33 seats both passenger and drivers. Must be in good condition with no tears, stains or marks. Need both as a set no individual. I am in Sydney and prefer local. I have a Bride Zeta(Black w/bride rails for R32) in great condition if anyone is intersted in trade. Send me a pm. Cheers

//updated 5 January 2006. FYI, these have been amalgamated across all the series (R32-R34 mainly)..some models were not available in a particular colour (eg JW0 was only on some Nur spec Skylines). 326 - Crystal White 732 - Black Pearl Metallic AH3 - Red Pearl Metallic AN0 - Super Clear Red AR1 - Super Clear Red II AR2 - Active Red BJ0 - Light Blue Metallic* BL0 - Greyish Blue Pearl BN6 - Deep Marine Blue BP9 - Dark Blue Pearl BT2 - Champion Blue (the colour of the LM spec GTR 33s) DN0 - Green Metallic EV1 - Lightning Yellow EY0 - Silica Breeze GV1 - Black Pearl JW0 - Millenium Jade KG1 - Jet Silver Metallic KH2 - Gunmetal Grey Metallic KH3 - Black KL0 - Spark Silver Metallic KN6 - Dark Grey KP4 - Sonic Silver KR4 - Sonic Silver KV2 - Athlete Silver LP2 - Midnight Purple LV4 - Midnight Purple II LX0 - Midnight Purple III QM1 - Cloud White QT1 - White Pearl QX1 - White Pearl TG0 - Light Grey Metallic* TH1 - Dark Blue Pearl TV2 - Bayside Blue WV2 - Sparkling Silver The attached PDF file contains all known colours used by Nissan. It is written in katakana. If your colour isn't listed, check the pdf because it's most likely there. To come: DR30, R31, etc colour codes. CLRNISSAN.pdf

T326 - Crystal White 732 - Black Pearl Metallic AH3 - Red Pearl Metallic AN0- Super Clear Red AR1- Super Clear Red II AR2 - Active Red BL0 - Greyish Blue Pearl BN6 - Deep Marine Blue BP9 - Dark Blue Pearl EV1 Lightning Yellow EY0 - Silica Breeze GV1 - Black Pearl JW0 - Millenium Jade KG1 - Jet Silver Metallic KH2 - Gunmetal Grey Metallic KH3 - Black KL0 - Spark Silver Metallic KN6 - Dark Grey KP4- Sonic Silver KR4-Sonic Silver KV2-Athlete Silver LP2- Midnight Purple LV4 - Midnight Purple II LX0 - Midnight Purple III QM1 - White QT1 - White Pearl QX1 - White Pearl TH1 - Dark Blue Pearl TV2 - Bayside Blue WV2 - Sparkling Silver

What are you directing us to? I can't see anything on that page that hasn't been updated in the last few months. As far as I know the new VSI relating to the proposed VCCS scheme (replacing the current scope of engineering signatories) has not been released publicly yet.

We could go on all day about what could happen, what should happen, etc. Kennedy the best option for you is to call a workshop and ask for their stance. If you are considering Boost Imports (I haven't actually heard of them), ask for details of their RAWS compliancer and ask them the question.