raz0r$harP.UK

They work out of a few shops out of the Sutherland area, so just give Marty a call first: 0417 686 671 Vijay

Go to 'My controls' Under Personal Profile, choose 'edit Profile Info' And it's the 'Custom Member Title' option

what year model is it from and does it include the diff housing?

i wouldnt recommend bd4s based on my experience... but any place can install those mods just need to find a decent tuner for ecu

Jaycar electronics.

It really depends on what you want: how fancy the system is, any special features you want, sound deadening (usually recommended), etc - the more complicated, the more you'll pay. But he's not expensive by any means. Obviously the best way to get a quote is to drop in and see him, but you can also send him an email or give him a call. Vijay

Those mods with a good tune should push you to that figure, or very close to it. But if you looked in the Quick Ref guide at the top of this forum you would have seen the following threads Ex. Cam Gear: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...41&page=1&pp=25 Dump Pipe: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=10567 btw, 140kw is what you would expect for a near stock Skyline. That must have been a really really bad tune..

Just a quick reminder to all visiting this that there is to be no public slandering of businesses, as per the forum rules. Keep it cool, people. Vijay

He told me to keep it above 1/4 tank to be safe, but I've driven it a bit beyond that and I haven't had fuel pickup problems..I think that was just a cautious figure..it is higher, but not by that much.

My mech put mine in, no probs..sits slightly higher than the stock one as it doesn't have the pickup like the stock pump, but not too bad.

Not too long. If you're good, you can do it in a day easily. That being said, I got my installer to do it (FHRX, who is also on the forums - blatant plug: if you need some work done in Sydney, go speak to Marty!) The stock door wiring doesn't run straight through, it uses body plugs. ie you can't pull it through without some fiddling around. Easier to just run new wiring through another grommet which is about half way down your door, and pull through that. To access the wiring going to the back of the car, you just need to rip out the back seats and the remove the door sills to expose if (you can follow it back).

There's a thread about that in this forum.. I can't find it at the moment but do a search. Includes a template and everything. My brother has done it also. Just make sure there's enough clearance behind the magnet for the window glass to descend, and also so the door trim doesn't rub against the speaker.

1. Means as the car came from factory, ie, no aftermarket components. So if someone replaced the standard exhaust with an aftermarket one, to will have to be removed. 2. The work is carried out in Australia by the RAWS, in their workshop as part of the compliance process. As for the parts, I do believe that the workshops are supposed to record and destroy all non-standard parts taken off the car for complience - however you should confirm this with the workshop themselves. 3. See 2. 4. Depends on whoever's doing your compliance. Some people include the cost, others don't.

B-Man go check out the Autopia (www.autopia.org) and Meguiars Online (www.meguiarsonline.com) forums. LOTS of info there on what you can do.

Notice Ruku's sig..vested interest methinks? haha

How about you relax and stop carrying on with such an abusive and inflammatory attitude towards members of the forum? I think you're the only one who needs to lie down. Under Division 26(1)(a) of the Protection of the Environment Operations (Noise Control) Regulation 2000, if an authorised officer is satisfied that a motor vehicle emits noise at a level in excess of the maximum noise level specified...may issue a defective vehicle notice. The Act specifies testing procedures but does nowhere state that an authorised officer must test a vehicle before they can issue a notice. So next time before you decide to misinform everyone here, why don't you yourself take a look at the provisions in a bit more detail. Vijay

It probably isn't the turbo timer (Apexi Auto Timer?) The (predicted) A/F and 02 values are just metered and you can't change anything related to the actual settings of the car. But looks like your ECU 'limp home' mode has been activated.. it sets rev limit at around 2500rpm and runs rich to protect the engine against damage. Check your ECU diagnostics and clean your AFM. Stock GTST pump is good for around 200kw at the wheels. I didn't have any issues at that power with my standard fuel pump, but I decided to upgrade it to a Bosch 044 anyway, just to err on the safe side of caution.

madwob: not exactly. Up to the police officer's discretion but they can still defect you if you have an engineering certificate. Just makes it easier to clear if they do. However, if you have something like a car that is too low, blow the legal limits, an engineering certificate won't help you.

//thread merged with previous topic.. Gee that's bright mate! Not bad though

Different BOVS have different sounds. Beyond that it's easy to describe the sounds. If you search on the net you'll find some sound clips of BOVs on different cars, but the sound you get may be different depending on the car, engine, state of tune, etc. If you have a typical turbo car (turbo Skyline, WRX, etc) it sill have a stock BOV, which can be taken off and replaced with an aftermarket one. But this isn't the place to discuss this. If you want to know more, search the rest of the forum or post a question in the relevant area.

1. Take door trims off. There's a how to in the FAQ section. 2. Locate stock speakers, unscrew and unplug. Test fit new speakers. You may need to fit spacers or something else to make the speakers fit depending on size and what's currently in your car. Usually 6.5" speakers will fit in no problems. You should make sure that the back of the speaker doesn't hit the window glass (check that by winding the window all the way down when doing a test fit). 3. Unplug stock wiring, plug into new speakers and mounts. Replace door trim. 4. Enjoy!

Takes just over two weeks from port to port - depending on whether the ship makes any other stops, weather conditions etc. Once car arrives here, will be inspected by AQIS and Customs. Needs to have the appropriate clearance and inspection documents filled out beforehand. If you have a customs agent they will look after this for you. If not I suggest you search on the forums on the process, has been documented several times before. Upon clearance you will need a copy of the clearance documents and take it to the docks and they will release the car to you.

Personal opinion: I thought that the Power FC Boost Control Kit would be enough for me - and I've been more than happy with it so far. The only thing I wish is that the black and blue contrast of the AVCR is really easy to see at night, a lot easier on the eyes than the FC Commander.

I recently got an 040 installed intank in my 33 GTST, to replace the stocker. Only issue I had is that I couldn't get the pump as far down as the standard one (due to the design of the pickup), but I've got no problems with that because I'm able to keep my car filled to at least a 1/4 tank at all times. Apart from that, you wouldn't be able to tell it's an aftermarket pump. No extra noise, the car doesn't take any longer to start, and I'm totally happy with it.

Yeah two degrees in Orchard Hills..