raz0r$harP.UK

I found this Lucien for an R33 GTR - might be similar? http://www.nets.ne.jp/~dei/koso/earthing/

I do believe I read Sydneykid using a 50:50 mix of kero and metho. I just used some degreaser and water but make sure it's safe to use with aluminium. Have a look see at http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/intecoolersMR.htm#Intercooler Maintenance://http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk...ler Maintenance

None of the usual suppliers (Mod Your Car, Slidewize) are no longer able to source new Buddy Club rims. Apparently this is due to the Japanese company closing up shop. Have read a few forums which sorta confirm this: http://www.jtuned.com/forums/showthread.php?t=373 Pissed me off no end. There's a bit more to it though, I'll see if I can find the other link..

Guys I've just gone through and edited some of the posts that identify some of these individuals, keeping things as per forum rules: "Absolutely no slandering of any business. Negative comments about any business will be removed immediately" Please keep that in mind in the future. If you wish to discuss names, please PM the person involved. And by the way, I have had experience with all of the individuals named so I can understand some of the comments. Vijay

From the PFC manual: ・The lamp will illuminate when the pressure sensor is at maximum capacity ・During detonantion, the lamp will flash 3 times in 0.1 second intervals ・The lamp will flash for 0.5 seconds when the injectors are at maximum capacity

hey dude your afm could be dirty or on its way out... mine had the similar problems use to make the tyres chirp on shifts up to 3rd bad afm and cut outs and los of power use some electrical contact cleaner to clean it and see

i dont think overall it would make much of a difference at all due to them beind air cooled so fast anyway but i thought in theory that the black ones would get hotter initially due to them absorbing the heat energy as opposed to being reflected by the white....

There are several threads around that detail the importing process if you do a search. Likewise with (SEVS) compliancers, they are all listed on the DOTARS website. 15 year old signatories should be available from your state registration authority. That being said, if you wish to provide me a list I'll sticky it and add where required. Vijay

Hey roy just had a quick question.... are you running the stock LSD? if so have you had any problems with it ... just asking cos at the moment i have a fairly similar set up but ats lsd and 2 different driveshafts so i want to change the rear end n its pretty cheap to go to stock just wanted to kno if there is anything i should look out for... thanks also are you still running the standard afm?

overboost for good sql you should have a strong front stage... it would be a bad idea to run the front off the deck and back amped... it just means when you turn it up you will get distortion through the fronts ... id rather have amped front speakers and no back speakers and yeah it would be intersting to see the thd stats on that pyle amp and the continuous output figures.....

6.5" front and back is the standard size front and back. May need to make up some brackets to give clearance in the doors, but that's pretty easy.

My brother's car is the same, shuddering and noises is pretty bad during low speed cornering. Was recommended to do a rebuild of the diff, with new clutch plates and all. About $600 for our 1.5 way.

hey jimih you mind if i ask how much you paid for the pro version cso im lookin at gettin one to for my r32

hks hipower loud... dont go there trust power extreme is extrememly quiet when it was first on soudned softer than stock after a while its a little bit louder but still extremely quiet

midnight you posted on NS right? Anyway if you go into the RTA they should have a list of people who can do 15 year compliancing for you. Just call around a few places if SSPI is too far..

went to check the wiring on the tps one last time andd drum roll the red wire comes out of the back of the harness took apart the harness and soldered it together boom its all good... but dodgy soldering so im just gonna wait for a cheap tps and buy it

well what happens ill be driving normally then suddenly its like it just cuts out ...the engine is still runiing and car is still on ... so it hasnt stalled but the revs drop slowly the fuel pump cant b heard although when i floor the accelrator i notice that even though i am not getting and power or the revs are rasing the boost controller still shows the changing vacuum but never builds boost obviuosly it eventually slows really fast then dies and then starting it takes a few times but usually repeats ill have to check the afm wiring then (hada look at the ecu harness but didnt follow wiring will do that though) but yea my bro has a r33 so ill change tps (just as a test ) try drive closeby then go over afm wiring once again thanks for all the input guys

hey yea im going to change the tps quick question is the r33 tps the same as the r32 tps talking both manual gtsts ? also had a quick look today is it hard to take off ?

do you still have tps? pm me price if so

haha oops forgot to add problem happened last week mechanic checked tps and said it was fine

thanks for the reply guys.... afm has been previuosly checked and was fine I'm guessing retainer bolt is to make sure the ECU is sitting ok and wired right?? It's been relocated to glovebox. cos my ecu is in the glovebox has a piggyback ECU attached i put the car into consult mode and ecu flashed code 43 which is for TPS. Any suggestions as to what is causing this? AHHHHHHHH

hey my 89 r32 gtst keeps cutting out... it will start and then drive for a while but then it will cut out like the accelerator isnt working... its like im not pressing it but i keep pushing and it wont do anything or it will cut back in and start working i have no idea what it is but i know for that the fuel pump is working as it has been tested anyone who has had similar problems or any idea what it might be please reply asap thanks

Nah, that would be my Tarago that was keyed.. Sorry to hear about the van mate..

Not necessarily true. If he's running a small battery there's probably reason to upgrade to a high-capacity deep-cycle one down the track. I agree with Marty and always_me if he's running one amp he shouldn't be running into any problems. But some other things he could consider: - thicker battery grounding wire - thicker alternator grounding wire Vijay

Your stock BOV is circled in blue. The aftermarket one (which looks like it's plumbed back) is circled in green.