XR Pilot

Since a few of you want to see some code I knocked up a basic version of my existing code. I'll test it tomorrow to confirm it works before posting it. Daniel - Do you want to have a crack at the code before I post mine? I don't mind either way.

Yeah it won't be a problem. Setup your interrupt to store time between interrupts in microseconds and keep your ISR short and you won't have any issues even north of 10,000rpm. The best way to learn is by experimenting (imo) but if you get stuck with the code let me know.

I'd strongly suggest you put a scope on it and double check - if memory serves there is a pullup resistor in the body harness to 12V. At the very least the R34 workshop manual shows the tacho pulse on the cluster side as being upwards of 10V and I'd imagine the R33 would be similar. The trigger edge varying depending on if it is a DE or DET but if you are just trying to get an RPM reading that won't matter. You may also find the signal isn't quite as clean as you'd expect - on older Nissans it isn't but I haven't scoped an R33 before so your mileage may vary.

Long (and I mean very long -I've been following this thread since it was around page 20) time lurker first time poster - I'm really excited to see the VNT results, I've been waiting ever since you expressed interest in developing them :-) One thing I'm curious about that I'm really surprised hasn't been mentioned yet is if you have dropped your exhaust for any recent dyno tests? 400rwkw from the SS3 alpha is a good result on 24psi in my opinion but I can't help but wonder if a 3" cat back exhaust is holding it back somewhat.

I looked into this a fair few years ago before E85 was available - octane booster will generally raise a fuels given octane by a few points. Ie point-something of an octane. So 98 will become 98.2 octane for example. The only way to get a decent boost in octane is to mix something like Toluene with 98 (121RON, turbo F1 cars used an 86% Toluene/14% n-Heptane filler blend. It's pretty nasty to handle but you could get it in drums as of a few years ago). Mixed at 65% 98 / 35% Toluene this will get you up to around the same octane as E85 at a much higher cost vs pump E85. I think your only viable options are either reduce the compression ratio of that motor to run 98, run water/meth like Darren said (if you do run water/meth I'd listen to this man!), buy E85 drums or take a trip to either Newcastle or Kempsey and fill up a few jerry cans.

What everyone is telling you is your injectors are side feed. The 11mm or 14mm your asking about is terminology used to describe a top feed injector. A top feed injector won't fit a standard rail, so no matter if you buy either an 11mm injector or 14mm injector it will be a top feed and won't fit, you need side feed injectors. The picture below shows a top feed injector next to a side feed to better illustrate things. So either change your rail or buy side feeds.

I had the same problem when I was trying to tune a 2ZZGE. Ended up being a poor fit on the FC-Datalogit's connector to the Power-FC. Moving the plug around got it to connect. Does your hand controller (assuming you have one) still function when connected inline with the Datalogit? That was the give-away for me, poor connection and the hand controller wouldn't initialise and I would get the interface not responding error.

PM sent.

Either use a Z32 ecu and you don't need to run a controller for the VCT, or use an RB20 ecu and you need to run an external controller for the VCT (Eg MSD RPM window switch, ebay rpm window switch, possibly a jaycar kit etc.)

You just tune for maximum power everywhere you can get it, period, obviously within a safety margin allowing for external factors (ie heatsoak, bad batch of fuel etc) There is no such thing as a tune for power or a tune for torque, as horsepower is calculated from torque anyway. So in a nutshell, if you are able to make 10kw more power at XYZ rpm then great, you now have more torque at that point also. Quiet simple and easy to tune a car on a dyno properly, the only thing that can be easier on the road is transient enrichments and in some cases tuning for lumpy cams.

If your registering a car in NSW from interstate it has to be deregistered and blueslipped, same process as if it had been out of rego for 3 months or more. Not fun $7K is too much for an auto NA Silvia too. I'd steer clear of an auto Silvia no matter how cheap it is, the manuals are a much nicer car, and thats coming from someone who wishes they had a manual somedays from driving a triple plate in Newi! Another vote for something like a SSS, not bad cars. My mate had an N14 SSS as a first car, went alright but they have a very cheap and nasty interior. My NA Celica was quicker tho I'd pocket the left over cash until you can get something turboed, the NA Silvia's/Supras/Skylines etc aren't all that fantastic especially considering the massive price premium on them with the current p plater laws.

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak which could cause the problems you describe. Listen for a noise of air sucking at idle. Also how could it be from not too long ago as reading some of your previous posts your mate painted the rocker covers back in December 2008 and you've still got the same problem as back then. Might be time to fix it properly hey..

Good point, I thought of that a few hours after I posted. Looked like a fairly standard Nissan flared brake-line style fitting from what I remember though.. But as far as bolt pattern goes its all good.

Also, might help next time if you post in the right section

You'll need to post up a bit more info than that, pics would help. Comparing the turbo's side by side would be a start to see if there are any physical differences, there are that many different hybrid turbos out there no one is going to be able to say if it will or won't bolt up to your RB20DET and retain all the existing lines/piping etc. I'd either look for a good condition stock RB20DET turbo or look for a highflow RB20DET turbo if your after a bolt-on with some more grunt to save hassles. Aside from that, you need to find out why your existing turbo blew up and fix the problem before you stick another one on, and check the turbo didn't cause any damage to your engine when it let go. The usual cause of failure is from being overboosted.

GTS2's definately had a different cam, as did GTS1's. Both got stainless steel extractors, and each had a unique set of mags. The ecu's in both cars were standard, but the GTS2's received a piggyback arrangement, I have heard it was due to Bosch not warranting (or more probably, allowing..) a modified ecu. eightsixboy - For what its worth, I have an R32 RB20DET silvertop RP71C #2 gearbox in my series 3 R31, fitted up fine. I can't comment on any ratio changes etc as the car hasn't been driven yet (undergoing turbo conversion at the same time). I'd be looking for a low-km cheap R32 gearbox as a replacement personally. They will amost certainly be lower km and fresher than an R31 gearbox (unless rebuilt) and possibly have better synchro's, I haven't found information to confirm/deny that, as apparrently some late S3's got the later gearbox (september 89 on, possibly?). I have also heard that apparrently the ratios are slightly different, from what I remember 5th isn't quite as low, slightly more revs for the same speed. I've also heard that the R32 gearboxes have extra webbing over the earlier boxes. My RP71C #2 definately has it, not sure if your box will or won't. My 2 cents..

If you aren't planning an AWD conversion, then the RB26 sump and GTR box can be modified to RWD format, but unless you've got the gearbox already it would be far easier to get an RB25DET gearbox, which shares internals with the GTR box but is less a transfer case. On second thoughts, on re-reading that it sounds like your planning on fitting AWD to an RB20DET, not converting from an RB20DET to RB26DETT. For what it will cost you in parts and labour, sell your GTS-T and buy a GTR, it will be cheaper. On top of that, I'm not even sure an RB26 sump will bolt to an RB20 block. I know for sure that RB30 blocks don't have the extra bolts, assuming RB20 would be similar.

For extra confirmation-ness, I've got an R32 RB20DET gearbox in my R31 with what appears to be a standard R31 slave.

You need some play in your clutch pedal before the master cylinder is engaged. If you had none, then by the sounds of it when the clutch fluid heated up the expansion of the fluid caused the slave to push the clutch fork ever so slightly. I could be completely wrong, but I guess you'll find out if its fixed when you get a chance to test it

I gotta say, that sounds like a very impressive result and its good to see some quality development of the R35 taking place in OZ

Hi, I'm interested in some parts but don't have enough posts to PM you, could you PM me your email address please.

Email sent.

Hi, I'm interested in some parts but don't have enough posts to PM you, could you PM me your email address please