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1995 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T Silver, manual, 182,000km Im the only owner in Australia Well looked after, always serviced and always garaged Major services done by Pro Concept and UAS Tuned at 205rwkw in November 2008 by UAS Mods: 17" OZ Racing Wheels 235/45/17 Dunlop Sport Maxx and Dunlop SP9000 tyres with 85% tread K&N Pod with CAI 3" Dump + Front Pipes and Hi-Flow Cat 3" HKS Super Drager Exhaust Blitz Boost Gauge New Iridium NGK Spark Plugs Greddy Cam Gears New Walbro 550hp Fuel Pump (UAS branded) HKS EVC 4 Boost Controller Greddy Front Mount Intercooler Apexi Power FC (with hand controller) 4.9kg XTREME Billet Flywheel Daikin Exedy Organic Heavy Duty Clutch RDA Slotted Disc Brakes Autowatch 3 Point Immobiliser Alarm (with built in turbo timer) Have spent over $10,000 in upgrades, and original parts will also be supplied Rego until 31/5/09 Price: $9900 negotiable Its been a great car to me, had lots of fun in it and its been very reliable. Tune is good on petrol too, can easliy get 11l/100 Needed to get something more practical (im embarrased to say that its a hatch) so the car needs to find a new home. will definately be missed but. Contact Sam 0416 235 758 (Castle Hill) [email protected]

I just got back from the states and i saw heaps of G35 coupes over there. It really looks so much better in the flesh that im considering getting one. Prestige has them from $25 - 38k and 350z's here are still 40k-65k Thats pretty good value for esentially a more practical 350z! Im not sure of which specs they come in though, but is it possible to have this combination? coupe 6 speed brembo brakes 18inch wheels Seems like manuals are a little hard to find

Falken Ziex 326 Dry: 2/10 Wet: 1/10 Value: 0/10 Compliance tyres. Certifiably dangerous in the wet at speeds slower than the slowest camry. Put a big scratch in my stock rims when i had them on due to taking a corner in the wet too fast...at 30km/h Falken ST115 Dry: 4-5/10 (cold) 6/10 (warm) Wet: 6/10 Value: 6/10 Theres a big difference when these tyres warm up. When theyre cold, they are as bad as everyone says, they change a lot when theyre warm though. I quite liked them when they were warm, but in the back of my mind i was always scared that they would let go while really pushing them. When it slides, its not really progressive. Stiff sidewalls though makes for responsive turn in though (relative to street tyres) Hankook k104 Dry: 7/10 Wet 6/10 Value: 8/10 Similar price to falkens execpt they grip better and seems like its going to last longer. Really good performance in straight lines (launching and braking). Better grip than falkens without the need to warm up the tyres. Also very predictable loss of grip so you feel safe pushing them. Soft sidewalls though, so ride is softer, but not as responsive. For a street tyre around $200 i would recommend the hankooks. I wish i could buy better tyres, but I do 25 000kms a year, so i need a balance of grip and durability, not R type tyres which last 10 000kms. Anyway, im pretty happy with the hankooks though, but i will spend more if theres a better tyre which lasts just as long. Heres a comparo i did of the st115 and the k104 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...dpost&p=2090267

I bought a set of hankooks k104 and here are my thoughts on them. Replaced my old tyres which were the falken st115 with these last december I took notes of how the k104's felt as i ran them in. Ive done about 9000km on them in the past few months. Fronts are the same size (225/45/17) and rears i went from 235 to 245 on the hankooks. Used to run 34psi on the st115, now run 36 with the hankooks Cost was around $215 for fronts and $230 for the backs (or something like that) Straight line performance When new and after a few 1000kms: Straight line performance kills the st115's. That includes braking and launching. Very impressed with them in this regards. Even when brand new, tyres were substantially better in straight lines. After a few thousand kms (3000km is the sweet spot i reckon), they were really really good. After 9000km, theyre still good, but its a bit hard to compare now since the car has more power now (200rkrw). Still, its safe to say that i have more grip now than when my car was on st115 with just an untuned ecu, fmic, boost and exhaust. Turn in When new: On turn in into corners, they do feel they have slightly less grip than the st115's. After run in: Probably the one thing i dont like about these tyres is that on initial turn in, theyre theyre slightly worse than the st115. Difference is small, but even in the sweet spot of the tyres (around 3000kms) they were never really better. Still, its not so bad, cause it just understeers a bit and its very predictable. Part of the reason could be that the sidewalls feel softer than the st115 Midcorner When new: St115 is underated in this regards. When warm the st115's do a fine job. When theyre cold though, they are a horrible tyre. Initially, the k104 didnt have the same levels of grip as the st115 did when they were warmed up. When both were cold, they were about the same (ie horrible) Even though they had less grip, i still felt more confident in them because of the way they slide out. Really progressive slide. In the st115, if the tyres let go, it lets go in a big way. After run in: Once i got some kms into the tyre, things started to change. I reckon even 500-600kms isnt enough to show the true charactristics of the tyre. It did improve though. Once it hit the sweet spot (3000km) of run in, it was as good as the st115's when they were hot. Its hard to say which is better though since i have no direct comparison, but i reckon k104's are now slightly better. You can feel the hicas do the wierd shifting thing at the rear whereas before you couldnt really feel it in the old tyres. Wet Both are equal, ie not too good, but not that bad. Good enough to go faster than traffic and not bad enough to be dangerous in the wet. Both have deep channels for the water to get pushed out. Ride I think the softer sidewalls of the k104 makes for a more softer ride. A trade off for less direct steering on turn in? Anyway, its good for sydney's bumpy roads although i miss the directness of the st115's Wear Wear rate on these tyres are pretty good. st115's really dont last that long. After 9000km, the k104 still look good. Performance hasnt dropped off too much either from the sweetspot. If the best grip the tyres had were at 3000kms, i would rate them at 9000km as maybe 90-95% as good. So yeah, pretty happy about that. The thing that makes the k104 better overall is just the way they behave on the limit and in when theyre cold. The grip is consistant when cold, not like the 115's where you have to be careful pretty much all the time. If youve been dawdling along and suddenly you want grip, you can just go all out without worrying about the tyres being cold. Also, because of the way they slide, it feels much safer to push them. If you go too fast, they sqeal and slowly slide, but in the 115's, they sqeal and you slide in a big way before coming back to you. So overall i like them. if the st115 were rated at 6, id rate the k104 at 7. They grip the same, but thats all the time, not just when the tyres are warm. They cost around the same, but the 104's lasts way longer. For a street tyre, theyre great value for money (geez, didnt realise it was such a massive post! hope it helps somebody i guess )

I find it hard to believe people are taking the high ground on this. I dont know anyone who hasnt sped a fair way over the speed limit at some point, and im talking about normal cars like camry's, pulsars, commo's etc I took a round trip to canberra today (from sydney). Average speed of all the cars 120km/h. The speed limit is 110. Point is, everyone speeds at some stage. It wasnt like he was in a school zone doing 90...he was on joining a freeway... That said, youve goto be idiotic if you couldnt tell how fast you were going. At 141km, your at least 3.5-4k rpm in 5th gear. Skylines dont cruise comfortably at that speed. Theres too much air resistance so you have to be constantly boosting to maintain that speed. You should cop the fine and whatever time they give you since theres no way you could not have known that you werent speeding (i dont care if you speed, just suck it in when you do get caught and dont try to weasel yourself out of it)

i hope this group buy is still going i ignored all the warning signs for a dying battery over the past few weeks (taking longer than usual to crank the engine) and all of a sudden i couldnt start the car after a trip for some petrol... got a jumpstart and it started first crank.... (ive already sent a pm to wrxhoon)

Hey Guys Im confused about fuel pumps. I know i could just get a 044 and be done with it, but i dont like the issues that might occur if its installed wrong (last quarter tank pickup) and also the noise that it might make. Also, since ill be mounting it in tank, it means that the factory bracket will be mangled and itll be harder to put back to stock if i ever need. Im not really considering 2nd gtr items cause of the hassles that might come with it (not much warranty, old etc) I want to get a fuel pump from nismo or tomei. Price wise theyre similar. $340 - $360 for rice brand vs $ 310-$330 for bosch. Take into account that you dont have to modify anything for the jap brands, the jap brands will probably be cheaper if you take it to a mechanic to get installed. Nismo's specs are 246 liters per hour at 2.94bar Tomei's specs are 248 litres per hour at 3 bar Bosch 044 specs are 200 litres per hour at 5 bar My power target is around 250-270rwkw (probably with a gt-rs or similar) So for that i need 6 X 550cc injectors (just to be on the safe side) So that comes to 3.3L/min or 198L/hour (max the injectors will flow) Assuming fuel pressure is 2.5bar and a gt-rs is run at 19psi, the total psi i need is 55.75psi or 3.8 bar Out of the 3 above, only the bosch meets my requirements as it has the flow capicity as well as the pressure capacity. So i guess what im asking is: Is it still ok to get the tomei or nismo fuel pumps? I mean, itbmils has 300kw with the tomei one (the gtr one i assume which is 276L/h@3bar) Initially i thought it was just the flow i needed to look at, but with the psi rating as well, im confused. Are my calculations totally way off (if i run 19psi of boost, do i need an extra 19psi of fuel pressure?) Anyone have any thoughts?

1. COST $530 for PowerFC + Ex Camgear Install + Tune 2. Mods you have done (mechanical mods not stereo mods) exhaust, fmic, exhaust cam gear, powerfc, ebc, pod 3. Where u did it unigroup engineering sydney 4. How long it took Dropped the car off at 9am, picked it up all ready to go at 5pm on the same day 5. Comments Im happy with it. Very smooth all to redline. I was pretty desperate for a tune during my annual leave and Unigroup were more than happy to help. Fit me in on short notice and did everything all in one day. Prices were very good as well for a cam gear install + tune. He said normally they might charge more, but they still charged me the orignal quoted price. Yavuz was good at explaining what they did and what might need looking at in the future. In the end, the car made 206rwkw on a very hot day in sydney Will happily go back for any other mods in the future

1995 R33 GTS-t (series 1.5) 206rwkw Engine management - Apexi Powerfc Boost ran - 13psi with evc 4 Turbo - Stock Intercooler - Greddy Vspl fmic Standard BOV Full 3 inch exhaust (dump pipe and cat from batmbl) K&N Pod (left open) Greddy Ex Cam gear Fuel used - Synergy 8000 Stock all other internals I felt it was a good tune considering the heat today. It was a pleasant suprise to see that since i always thought my car was a bit of a dud. Many thanks to Unigroup for the tune and fitting me in on short notice (in case the picture doesnt show up, heres the rev vs power figures) 3000- 105 3500- 117 4000- 134 4500- 154 5000- 169 5500- 182 6000- 200 6500- 206 7000- 204

Agree with the comments about Pro Concept. High attention to detail and really knows his nissans. I will do all major mechanical work through him (only wish he was a bit cheaper though)

When i installed my front mount, the biggest thing i noticed was the lack of throttle response. Running the same boost i thought that the car was a little slower overall. Turning up the boost sorta overcame that problem, but throttle response wasnt there. When boost hit though, it felt faster (since i was running more boost), but from my experience with a FMIC, ive come to the conclusion that a fmic is a support part to allow you to get more power. I still need tuning though so maybe my opinion will change after that. So pretty much what paulr33 said is spot on. What youll get is more lag, less throttle response and worse fuel economy, but you get the potential to make more power in the end. my fmic is a greddy v-spl

Ok, just an update. I got my cooler fitted by a mechanic because i dont have the time (actually its more like i dont have the talent heh) to do it myself. Anyway, i asked him which kit he prefers, hybrid or greddy. He says the greddy is easier to install. Performance of the cores were similar, but the greddy ones you have to do less work. For one, you dont have to cut the radiator fan, it clears it fine. He also was pointing to a reducer from the throttle body to the pipe and said this part was better. Other than that, i wouldnt know what else makes it easier to fit. So from what i gather, if youre looking for pure performance/price, then hybrid or hybrid copy is the way to go. If you want something easier to fit, the get one of the jap ones If both are same price, then i would get jap

I bought my front mount from nengun recently. no hassles, but took a while for them to finish processing my order (ordered and paid, then took a about 1.5weeks for them to send it out). Didnt get customs tax etc Nothing wrong with upping the boost either. 10psi on stock intercooler is fine, although avcr is a bit expensive. But hey, if you like it, buy it!

Core size is 600x240x76 So i guess it makes it slightly shorter than a hybrid. Also its a tube and fin cooler.