Syphon

Well there is the official answer Chop chop lads!

Mike, will find out for you but I have a feeling you need to show up Friday to sign in.....will get back with more information tomorrow

I will be there all weekend! Anyone is welcome to come along. Don't be so soft guys, get Friday off work, come up and get on the turps friday night, show and shine saturday, then some track action sunday! Should be a weekend to remember, so long as the weather holds out Hope to see you there

When you say 2cm think, do you actually mean thickness or width? I have no idea what you would need 20mm thick steel for on a turbo setup, unless it's for flanges, spacer plates, or your making some brackets to hold a turbine off a 747? If it is infact 20mm thick, as said previously, cut and weld. If it's only a few millimetres thick, either put it in a vice and hit with hammer, or take it down to a fabrication shop and get them to press bend it to required angle. Would cost you next to nothing to have it bent. Infact if they charged you, imo their tightasses

Ring Nizpro in bayswater, Vic. They should be able to answer all of your questions.

LOL I got really bored too so here is my effort

LMFAO, you guys are feral. Keep your fantasies to yourselves Anyways bit late but Happy Birthday Gordo! Best of luck with the mid-life crisis

There is going to be a dyno night Friday week at Dr.Drift's joint in conjunction with the 31club if ya interested $40 i think it was for a run http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=55831.0

Here ya go

Paul, thanks for the reply. Yeh I am coming to the conclusion I will have to buy one as a permanant thing. The downside is the time I will have to wait to get one through nengun (for example), and my poor car hasnt had a tune in 2 years and was tuned for qld conditions. Previous owner has left it for ages between tunes. Standard ecu back in atm, and runs like a pig Anyways appreciate the offer immensely. Will no doubt PM you if the datalogit is needed. cheers

Anybody? Dr.Drift can't tune the damn car without one..... hmm

Hey guys, Is there someone in the south eastern burbs who might be able to lend me a Power FC Hand controller for a day or two so I can get my 33 tuned.... Is it a Series 1 33 gts-t. The PFC is the older style with the serial number starting with RB25 yada yada. Pretty sure the hand controller needs a part code FCC NT Kudos to anyone who can help out!! Happy to hand something over as a deposit, and supply some drinking beverages as a thankyou

Have you got the boot lock cover and indicator that I have been waiting on for a few months now?

yes Run the motor for a little bit, check dipstick and add to level.

Sorry I couldn't make it either lads. Unfortunately I was out helping fix a mates car at that time. As previously suggested, a later slot would be better around 8 - 9pm. Bit hard for alot of people to make it at lunchtime on a sunday, especially if they have been out on the turps the night before Will take some time before you get some good turnouts, hang in there

John I have pmed you with no reply. Can you please answer asap, I leave for Melbourne in the morning and a gearknob sent to an old qld address isn't going to be of much help thanks

Roy Try this link Greenline Scroll about half way down the page for a listing for the Mz and RS. Doesn't help with experiences with the diff but gives you some prices atleast

I'd say at a guess that's the way to go, possibly bleed the tube before the slave though... The 2 times I have ever bled a clutch, I had to start with the master as the fluid reservoir was empty filling with air, so before fluid would flow down to the slave, i needed to bleed the master. Have someone pump the pedal a few times, then hold the pedal bout 3/4's of the way to the floor. Crack open the bleed point and then tighten up within a second or so. Repeat that process until there is no more air bubbles present. Then move on to the other bleed points. Use some clear tube such as the type you would use for bleeding brakes so you can see the air bubbles clearly. Make sure you keep topping the fluid reservoir up. If it runs dry during the bleeding process, your going to have to start at the beginning again

Yeh nothing here either and I am on the Gold Coast rofl. 2 more days and I will be on my way to Melbourne.... I am praying it turns up before I go... argh

Geoff is not making those lock bars anymore and no longer has any stock of lockbars for the R33, although he appears to still have some for the R32. Anyways, you can still purchase a solid bar through http://www.greenline.jp It is called an ESSENTIAL HICAS Breaker. Anyways a little off-topic to the original question, honestly do a search as I have read numerous threads on locking hicas and plenty of posts on experiences with the Tomei kit.

Now all you gotta do is get some nuts Beautiful ride though!!! ( The car that is )

Try PMing Chris Rogers

How "short" a course were you willing to do... Only thing I could come across is a Certificate 3 in Automotive Specialist (Engine Reconditioning) They appear to run this one at Batman TAFE in Richmond. Ring around or search the net on all tafe courses. Try this link http://www.tafe.vic.gov.au Good luck

How are you bleeding it? Are you bleeding the master cylinder first, then the slave cylinder...?