Syphon

I think you may find that Ash is indeed correct in this situation, and I wouldn't expect that you would have to appear. I am still yet to confirm these things, but please keep us updated. I imagine that it would be quite the same with a canary slapped on an interstate car. Why would you need to clear the canary, when it relates to Vicroads, and has nothing to do with another state body... Each state has different regulations relating to modifications, and it up to your state transport authority to deem whether or not your car is roadworthy, so as far as I see it, they are just wasting your time pulling you over. Maybe check the facts out, ask the questions. Maybe they can attempt to have your car tested in your home state....not sure

Pretty sure i managed to get the screws in mine as I was leaving the DECA compound, so most likely near the carpark area or along the entry/exit road. Does suck but what can you do, luckily I brought some spare rims for just such an occasion Don't have a trailer like some of these showponies Nice footage Mat, great spot for the Long wang to setup the camera!

As everyone has said, thankyou so much to the organisers, helpers, and sponsors for a fantastic day out. Being my first DECA event, I had a ball, and a good laugh trying to learn the courses set on the skidpan. Much like others, come the afternoon after way too much sun, heat, and flies, it was definately hard to concentrate on the courses, so i had some weaksauce and called it quits after a few mistakes Also, out of interest, did anyone else end up with screws in their tyre? I woke up sunday morning to find 1 almost deflated front right tyre, and about 4 screws in my left rear tyre, which I know for a fact I got from the DECA facility. Rather disappointed that I now have one tyre which is pretty much fubar, and another that I will need to get repaired, damaged from screws floating around at DECA lol.

Yeh mate I am probably along with acsplit and his mate. I am just in FTG if that helps. PM me if you want to meet up

How much head is required to get a drive of that porsche?

I wouldnt have thought he could still see his front shaft past his rather large bonnet scoops aka boobies

Here you go RB25 Wiring Diagram RB25det ECU Pinout

Metallic whine? Or sounds like air leaking? Pop the intake pipe off the turbo and see if you can spin the compressor wheel..... Hopefully you haven't shattered the turbine wheel, or broken a shaft

I'd say there is about 4 rooms left now, I just booked 2 of them yesterday

Andrew, Fax sent with payment details

*bump* Anyone coming along to this? Some more people would be great for the day

Looks like I might be heading down on the Saturday to spectate at this event. If anyone is spectating and want's to meet up to head down there Saturday morning, let me know! Also, where abouts are most of you guys staying down there?

Interesting you say that, I did mine recently aswell and almost hydraulic locked the motor. Pissing past cyl 6 O-Ring. What happens is the orings bind when the injector is being pushed back in, usually because they are dry, so something like grease, or vaseline is VERY IMPORTANT. I ended up just replacing all the injector orings, they aren't expensive Also worth pulling the coilpacks and plugs out, leave the injectors unplugged for good measure, unplug the crank angle sensor and crank the motor over and check for leakage into cylinders. Also worth grounding the fuel pump, let it run for a say 2 minutes to prime the system, then crank it over with no spark plugs in, and again check for leakage. You can also crimp the return line if your anal, which will basically max the pressure, I wouldn't suggest running at max pressure for much for than 30 seconds though. If it doesn't leak then, your good to go. A previous post about sounding like 5 cylinders, sounds identical to my issue, i just knew it was down a cylinder, so shut it down and traced the problem. Can't say I would want to run up a motor on the dyno with a massive leaking injector. BTW, did I mention I hate side-feed injectors?

Nissan Australia Spare Parts

The hose sticking out is for the inbuilt MAP sensor in the WOLF. They do not have inbuilt boost solenoid's AFAIK, they can only control boost using an aftermarket solenoid. Namely I was told with the V4, I could have used a 33 gts-t standard solenoid and wire that in. Hope that helps

Give Quadrant suspension in Berwick Victoria a call and see if they might be able to recommend someone who can do it in WA, otherwise send them to Quadrant.

You might all be interested to know that Gavin Strongman is bringing out his R32 GTR "GIO" racecar for this event also, and apparently ready to do some hot laps

Just car did a similiar thing to me on renewal earlier this year, wanted $200 more for the year with a gay excess and agreed(note market)value on the car I went to Shannons and they did the same price, with more than half the excess, and a higher agreed value. Was disappointed in Just cars, as I have always had insurance with them and found them to be fantastic to deal with in regards to claims. Just a shame they can't honour good customers and the periods they have been insured with them for and "reduce" their premiums irrelevant of the car insured. Anyways, Shannons get my money now.

I don't know if it specifically relates to your problem but I would also check the Crank angle sensor plug and make sure it's clean. Pretty easy to spill water over that.

Depending on how desperate you are to get the car running probably dictates what you do. Plug it in and see if it works i suppose If it were me, I would be requesting a replacement

Interesting that this topic has just come up as I was searching for some answers to this last night. My brother currently has a S1 33 gts-t which has a similiar issue. It only acheives 5psi boost over the whole rev range. I have modded the std boost solenoid aswell and still 5psi all day. No bleed valve, nothing. All standard aside from cat back exhaust. Not sure on condition of cat convertor but wouldnt think a slightly blocked cat would stop it acheiving 7-8psi of boost. No leaks on the cooler piping that I can find this far. Doesn't appear to be leaking although he has mentioned that the idle stumbles around occasionally which makes me think it has a vacuam leak somewhere. Also only other piece of information is that the std boost gauge in the dash doesnt read any positive pressure. Only reads up to 0, and never goes any higher. I am starting to lean towards either a faulty boost solenoid, or leaks in the intake system somewhere. I presume that the standard wastegate allows approx. 5psi and the solenoid bleeds off a few psi once your over 4500-5000rpm or however it works, achieving full boost.

Doesn't look like I will be making it either at this stage. Fortunately the car is tuned and ready but I just don't have the cash flow to get there now All the best lads

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/diagr...gine-wiring.zip http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/rb/R32_All_Engine_Manual.pdf

Maybe check ECU for fault codes if you haven't already Also worth checking TPS is functioning correctly.

1993 S1 R33 GTS-t - HKS 2535 @ 17psi - HKS Front Mount - Nismo 555cc injectors. - RB20det remap with VCT Controller. - Bosch 040 pump. - Splitfire coils, NGK copper plugs - 3" mandrel exhaust, JJ Split dump pipe - 3" magnaflow cat - Turbotech manual bleed valve = 241.4rwkw, 711nm @ 116kph Dyno graph to come Big thanks to Dr.Drift for the tune, also to acsplit for his help with taking all the bullshit off the car, and getting it sorted!