cul202

PM me if you want a custom one designed & made up for you. I'm an Industrial Designer linked with a carbon/glass/kevlar fibre company. But we need a straight bonnet to rip a mould off first before we can start modifying it. Or just make a standard one in FRP. Oh, & I just noticed you are in Melbourne. We're in Sydney which is a bit more hassle. Ben

Yeah, I had my coils out on Saturday & the front 3 had hairline cracks on the front face. The back 3 coils were fine though. Checked the resistance cold & I think my multimetre must be a little out of whack as they all measured 0.5ohms. But they were cold hence the resistance was a little lower. New NGK BCPR6ES gapped to 0.75 but still a bit of hesitation at max load at 4500 - 5000rpm. Old plugs indicated decent mixtures but this may not be so all through the rev range.

Did you say 'can of worms' funky.... As funky said a Newton is the force to change the velocity of a 1kg object by 1m/s/s. In other words its a accelerative force. Force = mass x acceleration Gravity on Earth can accelerate objects at approx 9.8m/s/s. That means my 98kg arse puts a force of 960.4 Newtons on the ground (98kg x 9.8m/s/s). If I was standing on a big breaker bar 50cm (0.5m) from the socket/wheelnut trying to undo a wheelnut, I'd be placing 480.2 Newton metres of torque on it (960.4N x 0.5m). This is a very simple overview of Newtons (force) & Newtonmetres (torque). .

Interesting, considering Newtons is a measure of force, while Newton metres is a measure of force & leverage. '100N to a Nm'?? 1 newton applied to a lever 1 metre from the fulcrum is 1 Nm. Diameters of tyres, what gear you're in, diff ratio, etc all would be part of the equasion

Mine has the lower grade fabric, but all 89's I've seen (not all necessarily, but the ones I've seen have this) but has: - HICAS, ABS, 4 spotters, finned alloy cover LSD - GTR style wheel, digital climate, premium sound system (well, it's a bit more 'premium' now) - Electric front spoiler, projector headlights, factory body coloured wheel arch extensions (sort of like mud flaps), driving lights (removed), rear wiper. I always assumed my car was an M but it seem a little cloudy as to what makes an M. In the end its still worth the same so meh...

w00t! An event a mere 3km from my house! In Probably should join the club if possible while there.

found it... graphic represetation of HICAS with exagerated angles - rear wheels change < 1 deg

HICAS on an R32 is inactive at low speeds & fairly passive most of the time. It doesn't so much correct you, its more about aiding more responsive turn in and increasing stability mid corner. /searches for diagram from R32 brochure...... fails Basically: At intermediate speeds it will angle the rear wheels opposite on inital turn-in to to sharpen the turning response, then angles them the same way as the front for mid corner stability. At high speeds it does the same minus the initial turn-in opposite angling, the idea being that at higher speed you need less turn in response. Unless the system is playing up or you entend on doing a bit of track work I really wouldn't worry to much about it.

People seem to be reconfiming what I thought after talking to them. If you've been with them for a while they're great but you can't start a new policy as a new customer for a daily driver R32 in Sydney it seems. They guy on the phone refered me to Just Cars. meh... I'll probably just renew my current insurance. From what I've seen they payout when necessary (seen theft & single vehicle accident on a mates car) just the excesses are a bit vicious. When I had my Torana insurance companies wouldn't touch me with a 10ft barge pole so I guess it could be alot worse.

gold badgework was one of miriad of crazy factory options available on the Skyline which extended from racing seat extenders to electric front spoilers to skyline badges that light up to in glovebox drink fridges.. found several R32 brochures on the net & was alarmed by the sheer number of options one could have of their 'line

So to recap... Duncan got the same treatment as I did, where as a couple of you didn't. But... Zahos is in Melbourne & 4door is in Adelaide which could have quite a bit to do with things. Either they have something against Sydney, in particular my suburb, or they just don't want NEW business with import drivers. My basic excess is $1000 plus $1000 if stolen or $2000(!!!) for single car accident. Plus I'm not sure what my car's official 'market value' is atm.

My renewal just came through for full comp on my car so I thought I'd just have a bit of a look around & compare the price (dropped $400!) with other insurers. I like my premium but not the excesses nor some of the policy wording (most policies are probably the same though). Some have said go with Shannons but they said to me just then that they don't insure cars like mine for everyday use in Sydney.... Do they or don't they? Who else is there? .

If your car is a series 2 R33 then they are pretty much identical. The late R33 & R34 turbs both have a plastic (nylon or similar I believe) compressor wheel & a ceramic exhaust wheel, where as the R32 (lower flow) & early (series 1) R33 both have steel compressor wheels & ceramic exhaust wheels. The plastic compressor on the later turbos was to aid spoolup due to the lower weight/inertia of the plastic compared to the steel. All have will have the same problems with to much heat/boost ie they'll spit the ceramic exhaust wheel into the cat. I have an R34 turbs on around 12psi & my biggest prob seems to be spark/mixtures .

oh yeah... i'm done :drooling: /goes outside for a smoke someone needs to give me both of those cars immediately .

A red defect, as opposed to then standard yellow, means that you cant drive the car at all until its cleared. This is in NSW anyway. With a yellow you can drive the car home & also to get it cleared. With a red its a tow home from where you were pulled over & also a tow to get it cleared. A mate of mine recently copped a red defect for having an RB20DET & R33 brakes on his S13 without an engineers certificate.

spotted a tidy looking blue GTT with 5 spokers at around 7am this morning in King st Netwown

Anyone?

R32 GTS-t I've racked up 20000km since I bought it

'they'd probably make it to the first corner' yeah after that the guys in the communist & falcon probable noticed that they were on dirt in RWD IRS cars & decided to cut some hellies

I was wondering if anyone has either graphic files (jpg, tiff, gif, etc) or a link to a site that has the standard stickers that came on the variety of R32 models. I dont really need the specials like the 60th anniversery one or anything like that, just the regular models. More specifically I'm after the sheet of stickers that includes the 'Automatic GT spoiler' that goes on the electric front spoiler. I've searched & can't find that sheet on any sites with this sort of stuff on it. Any help/links/etc would be appreciated muchly Cheers, Ben .

I get slightly (but noticably) better economy on Ultimate.

first dealings with turbo import skylines... R30 sedan with L20ET & possibly the most retarded auto gearbox I've ever had the displeasure of using. Slowest car I've EVER been in up to 60km/h yet quite fast & responsive between 100 & 140km/h. weird... with R32 & 33 sedans I remember wondering 'where's my low down response'. fortunately the top end kicks in & it seems like much less of a problem!

Yeah, ended up bypassing it a few minutes after seeing the your pictures of the dash out. Will wait for a free w/e before tackling that one properly. Dashboards, along with things like engines & rear cradles are things that I rather dispise removing & refitting.

Wow, that’s really quite comprehensive. Can’t believe I didn’t look there in the first place. Thanks for that. I don’t really like the part where it says “entire dash & support removal” or “6 – 8 hours work” though Looks like I’ll be by passing it for this evening’s activities. Gotta get to a party in the Northern Beaches & don’t like the idea of catching public transport up there…

Anyone had problems with their (R32) heater box? I got a rather rude good morning from my car today when it decided to leak a little steam out from under the dash on the passenger side. Went to investigate & found that I could see buggar all but a couple of green drips on the underside of the heater box. Do you have to take the whole dash out to get to it? How big a job is it? I’m seriously hoping that its just a loose pipe or something to that effect. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated muchly. Ben