cul202

cheers for that funkymonkey. mines an early one with lots of factory options. i dont see many like mine around, probably cause others may have been changed to orange for the 'GTR look' that was mensioned earier

the ones in the pic above are exactly like mine except that on mine the little repeaters (square bulge on the side) are orange.

lets revell in the fact that we all have twin cam multivalve turbo 6's, 4spot brakes, decent suspension, power everything and a set of tail lights everyone this side of a ferrari is jealous of. oh, & some of us have an electronic front spoiler (lol)

my std ones (first sereis r32) are clear with an orange repeater on the side. you can probably find these at a japwrecker

whats the problem with elbows on doors in jap cars? im not talking about having your arm hanging 1/2 way down the door, just elbow resting on door. do i have to sell my jap car if i want to drive like an oz lad? ps i was after a 33, but i saw a lot around & the 32s feel a little more light & chuckable to me. plus i was after a 4 door & the rear end treatment is a little nicer on the 32s.

power is a measure of energy derived from torque combined with speed (rpm) thats why if you raise the rpm where an engine makes max torque (even if the torque stays at the same amount) the power will go up. the lumpier cam, carb, etc i put in my red motor raised torque only by 10-15 Nm but increased power by close to 30kw as it moved the torque curve further up the rev range. so theoretically (note, i said theoretically) the power change in different gears should not be that great. in a lower gear torque will increase but wheel speed will (read should) decrease by the same percentage. in practise there are many variables that make the power level change in each gear but it shouldn't be a massive difference.

KamakazeR33 has a sII turbo but in Albury. Pm him if ur interested

pm KamikazeR33 as he has one f/s

'89 4 door GTS-t manual in the country since 1996 $12000 with alarm, ABS, zorst & 34gtt wing. not a bargain in my mind but i needed a car to get to work.

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Pictures of std sII turbos... dont know why there is a pack marlboro's in there tho

can regular wheel alignment places do wheel alignments for cars with hicas? how in sydney would you see about such things?

not cool. i saw a crazed looking 20yo lad this morning running along canterbury (i use for work every day) rd hurling objects at cars. not really sure why he was doing it, but pretty glad my car wasn't hit. Maybe it wasn't hit cause it had 2 lads in it with a combined weight of around 500 pounds what with these people?

yeah i didn't word either of my replies all that well oh well, me good england, me speak you well.. anyway, anyone have any major grievances with helix ultra what ever it is (0-40 or 5-40 - i cant remember atm - stupid short term memory). The 5000km is up and was wondering in anyone can suggest any other oil sub $60

Adrian, obvious you read my post wrong or i worded it badly as you, after saying NO NO NO NO, said exactly what i said in your post, ie bray's oil close to what i ran in my red motor but NOT what you run in turbo jap motors. sorry, i just hate being hinted to as a drastic idiot when i have been working on my own cars for close around 9yrs i run helix ultra synthetic and my oil pressure never gets above 1/4 the way up the gauge. if thats normal for a skyline then cool but i'm used to oil that fluctuates pressure a bit more than that. Ben

jimx victory bray is the tomato farmer in question and his race car is and has been for many years sponsored by castrol. the engine is a 2500hp keith black that has an oil change every run... his oil his not really related to what we should be using. i've used only 5-40 grade and am thinking of going to try the 10-40 as my oil pressure is pretty much always on 2 (8 max) on the factory gauge. it drops below to about 1.5 at hot idle. i'm thinking i stay with the same brand as the pressure never drops or peaks heavily. 15 - 50 is around what i ran in my old red motor!

i'd love to drop one in my 32 but i believe the costs that go along with fitting one & getting it running would be beyond what i want to spend. awsome streetability due the V8 style torque delivery

why aren't you putting these on the car? were these from that group buy? how hard are they to put in ie. plug n play or soldering n rewiring

talk to boostedzed (the guy from unique auto sports). he seems to have a thing for 300zx's and UAS does rebuilds for these motors frequently it seems. he would probably have access to dimensions and mounting points. if you successfully put one in where an rb20 used to live that would be a pretty interesting swap. ALOT of midrange punch compared to an rb20....

you can get a frequency converter for minimal cost from an electronics place or even places like supacheap (prob) that allows jap radios to pick up aussie frequencies.

you could go back to old skool kill switches... i ran (on my old car) a relay to my fuel pump that was switched from inside the cabin, a solenoid on my fuel line & the ol' faithful ignition kill switch. before you all laugh people tried to steal it on several occasions and failed. its annoying to come back to a car with a stuffed ignition barrel n window, but better than coming back to no car at all

thanks peoples. i originally thought that both wheels were ceramic on the early turbos & then ceramic turbine/nylon compressor on the later turbos. a bit silly of me really as ceramic wheel exploding into the engine is obviously worse than exploding down the exhaust. the main quiery was one of reliability, which at the boost i intend to run, doesn't sound like a problem at all!

when at a bp station, the grey coloured 'premium unleaded' is 96 octane, while the gold coloured 'bp ultimate' is 98 octane. all of the individual stations i've been to (not all everywhere, just of the ones i've been to) only sell one or the other. places with ultimate usually have it listed on the big sign out the front. shell also offers optimax (98) & standard premium (96)

bp ultimate & shell optimax are both 98 standard premium is usually 95-96 regular unleaded is only 91 ive run my line on many of the std premiums & the high level premiums and i found that bp ultimate works best for my car (mainly better fuel economy). in my area bp is 5c cheaper than shell so that helps dont use regular unleaded as it will increase fuel use & decrease performance in a turbo 'line

anyone?