Sparky206
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Posts posted by Sparky206
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I am looking to replace all of the coolant and heater hoses on my Rb35det R33 and was wondering what everyone was using these days. Theres a few threads from 5 years ago with all the nissan part numbers for about $430 worth of hoses, but now theres a couple of silicone hose kits on ebay and just jap and was seeing if anyones had any experience with either of them.
Cheers
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Would love to know who the person was who asked to stick their go-pro on my car with about 15mins left in the day and got a recording of my last run. I was the silver R33 with the chrome lip'd 18's who had a passenger most of the day.
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Engine had been on its way out for a while, its just going to be parted out to another project car then scrapped so further damage was not a concern
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The hilux had a 1G-GTE in it, he would not be happy to have someone say its an rb
. It defiantly spun a bearing, then threw a rod on the way home about 2km out and had the crank vibrating so much it was moving the clutch pedal inside the car. Made it home to his street then died an honorable death and hadto be pushed into the driveway. -
sent in forms and payment for me and a mate, which also means the POS white trayback ute from this time last year will be returning for some laughs
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Cant download the forms, im just getting a "opps something went wrong" page on both links on the original post
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Heres my result with a r33 highflow i had done a few years back, just running 14psi off the actuator. 263KW
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End up getting those times transcribed?
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2nd hand hose for sure! That hose from nissan is $400
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Yes because the airflow through the AFM isnt going to be consistant. If your right on the edge, which you are running 11psi, sometimes you'll trigger it and sometimes you wont
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Your just hitting Rich and Retard. Search the forums for it. Trying to run anything other than stock on a r33 is just a waste of time, the ECU's absolutely hate it when they see anything their not expecting.
Whats happening is your hitting the limit of how much air the ECU wants to see going through the engine. When it sees this, it pulls all timing until its corrected. Thats why it'll feel like you hit a flat spot in the rev range.
If your running 11psi you could try dropping it to 9 or 10 if your JUST hitting it occasionally, but either just run it stock or get a nistune and avoid all these hassles
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Not a bad car either....
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I've been searching around for a boost leak for a while now, causing slow spooling and general lack of power.
I've pressurized up the intake to about 12psi and found a few small leaks but nothing major. If i pressurize to 12psi, it will slowly drop about 1psi every 10 secs till about 4 psi, then it will take longer. I can hear some air flowing somewhere around the head. Sounded very much like it was coming from the spark plugs, so i checked them and 2 bubbled a bit of water, but a little tighening and it stopped. The noise is still there, most prominent if i put my ear around the spark plug valley, but still very hard to get a direction on it. Im almost certain no more hoses are leaking, so where else could i be loosing pressure?
Thanks
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Sent payment through for 2 first timers, me and bbtr, will send through forms tonight
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it was at the end of the exhaust, a few people mentioned it as a common problem with supra's , and a few had had success with it here. It was by no means a solution, but i was trying to figure out what the issue was before i went and got a tune
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I cant seem to lower the boost, it boosts to 0.5 Bar then after 4500 revs the boost starts building with revs until redline and then its boosting 0.8 - 0.9 Bar.
I have a vacuum line running straight to the wastegate bypassing the boost control solenoid. Does the boost rise because the wastegate cant flow more exhaust gas due to it now being highflowed ?
Its a vicious cycle, the car hits rich and retard, dumps in a whole lot more fuel, which in turn helps spool the turbo even more. I spent nearly 2 years trying to figure out what was happening and why i couldnt get my boost to stabilise. I only ever found one solution that allowed me to keep the boost stable, and that was putting a 2.5" restriction plate at the end of the exhaust. No idea why it worked, but with that in i could set the boost to whatever i wanted and it would hold it to redline, take it out and it would do what you described, just keep building boost to redline. In the end i just got a tune to 14psi and let it do what it wants, its seriously the least painful option, trying to run anything over stock boost with the standard ecu and tune is just a massive headache with rb25s, you need to either pick standard or pick your mods then get a tune, there isnt really an inbetween that wont cause issues
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Its rich and retard. Either stabilize the boost below 10psi, or get a tune. Anything else is a waste of time and money
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I've been boost leak testing my car today, and also couldnt hear a leak, but spraying some soapy water around i found 3 seperate small leaks at places where hoses join
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Thanks for the replys. From what I've read on coil packs, when they cause backfires, it sounds like a machine gun going off, for me it was only ever one backfire. I have also coated the coils in high temp silicon to insulate them, and when i tested them in the dark, i couldnt see any arcing
AFR were between 11.6-11.8 . If the intake was sucking shut, would this show up in the AFR? Plugs were gapped to .7
Also another symptom that needs to be factored in is how much slower the car rev'd through the 4500-5500 range. It rev'd A LOT slower through this range, almost as if it was on half throttle, then would speed back up from 5500-redline.
I've ordered a new set of plugs and a metal intake pipe
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Here is the dyno sheet. This is the best we could get it with advanced ignition timings around the point where the power dropped. Other runs it would drop lower at around the 155KM/h mark then flatten out
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
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I'll see if someones got a 2nd hander going around first
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Looking for a r33 metal intake pipe for between turbo and pod filter
Will pickup in syd, or post from other states
Cheers
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had a similar problem myself. It was the stock rubber intake pipe distorting/sucking shut.
my symptoms led me to find this out as it was doing it more when the conditions were warmer (therefor rubber is softer and more able to be sucked n distorted).
I put in a metal intake pipe n that sorted it perfectly.
if you are only every going to go for about this power (famous last words) then one of the cheaper silicone intake pipes may suffice but otherwise i highly reccomend a metal one.
It also means more power is possible in the top end due to the better air flow.
I went from 290rwhp @14psi(when the intake wasnt sucking shut) to 300rwhp @14.5psi (the intake allowed for a bit more boost) just by replacing the intake.
Did you have a similar power curve to the torque curve above with an almost instant abrupt loss of power?
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While setting the boost, we did do a run at 15psi and it did make more power
. It defiantly spun a bearing, then threw a rod on the way home about 2km out and had the crank vibrating so much it was moving the clutch pedal inside the car. Made it home to his street then died an honorable death and hadto be pushed into the driveway.
Rb25 Coolant Hose Replacement
in General Maintenance
Posted
Thanks for the replies,Not too worried on looks, much more interested in just replacing 20 year old hoses.
Theres 14 piece ebay kits that look very convienient for $80, just wanting to double check that Im not getting myself some dodgy hoses that are likely to burst