Sparky206

Thanks for the reply's guys, they've been a great help in getting the mind ticking. To add another symptom, had someone tell me who saw me take off as i went for a test that the exhaust sounded like the engine had a miss in it, didn't sound smooth and healthy like usual. As for when it happened, i had it floored and it was just coming off vacuum then nothing, probably held it there for half a second, realised something was wrong, got off it then back on it to see if it would happen again, then saw the massive cloud of oil smoke out the back and limped it the 300m home. I too was very worried about ingesting ceramic dust, but after i took the dump off, you could follow the path of the wheel as it spiraled down the dump, then see the impact at the bottom of the dump, with many small mounds of ceramic dust pitted on the walls on the dump up until the cat. There were no signs of ceramic dust either in the dump before impact or in the exhaust housing. I must say though, the way the turbo snapped, it snapped the shaft flush off at the seals, and assuming the shaft was metal, i still haven't found it, and it certainly didn't get past the cat. Compressor side of the turbo was undamaged. All fins were still in tact and shaft was still spinning like normal. Just went and checked the BOV and the nipple you speak of is still connected, i didn't touch any of the hoses after the BOV. I do have the Standard ECU, and yes i have hit air cut once. Ill assume thats what happens when the car pulled all fuel and had to be restarted after it hit 15psi plus. Other times after that im backing off once i see its gone past what the wastegate is set at. Next step over the weekend ill start checking for boost leaks around all the connections, whats the best DIY method for this without rigging up a gas bottle and pressurizing the system? Once again thanks for the replys

Yes i found the wheel in the cat, in about 5000 pieces. I removed it all. As far as i could tell, cat looked un-damaged, just looked like a spiral of radiator fins, none were mangled or showed any signs of an impact. Looking down the dump you could clearly see where the wheel had impacted at the bottom of the dump, there was a large stain of ceramic dust followed by lots of little mounds of ceramic up the rest of the dump towards the cat. I would be fairly positive that the wheel was in many pieces by the time it arrived at the cat

Cleaned out the cat while the turbo was out and removed all the fragments of my exhaust wheel, although i never did find the shaft that snapped off.... BOV plumping is all connected, checked it a few times and all seems fine, will check for leaks after AFM tomorrow, but im doubting it. Wastegate was adjusted so it has some pre-load, adjusted it so that with both closed half the hole overlapped the pin, then pulled on the rod and slid it over the pin and cir-clipped it in place

Im using the 7-9psi one atm, was using the 15psi proir to that. Im the guy you posted one to yesterday to swap. The way its running, its more like something isnt connected properly or ive forgotten to connect something, loose piping or something. It doesn't feel as if the turbo itself is at fault, the car just seems generally rough, where prior it ran like new. A mate did suggest the O2 sensor as it could have been damaged when the ceramic wheel blew itself off down the dump. Could this cause these symptoms? The oil feed was enlarged, and supplied by hypergear. Im not trying to run 15psi, its spiking there. Most of rev range its spooling from about 2500rpm-4000rpm to about 5psi, then after that it really struggles and stutters to build more boost. Its pretty much taking 1500 rpm to build 5psi of boost. As for a tune, i plan on getting one, but once it is behaving reasonable.

Blew the exhaust wheel on my stock r33 gtst turbo a few weeks back, removed it myself and sent it away to hypergear for a highflow. Got it back and re installed it myself and now something just isnt right. Car is really sluggish, like 5psi by 4000rpm sluggish, then really struggles to build beyond that, but will quickly after about 5500rpm .Boost wont hold at all and I've tried two new waste gate actuators, using the same air line I've always used plumbed straight into the actuator. Its getting up towards 15psi by 6000rpm, but defiantly doesn't feel like 15psi should, even accounting for R&R. Other things I've noticed is the stock BOV seems to have gotten louder, and you can hear the turbo spooling whilst the car is still in vacuum according to the boost guage, which has read correct up until now. I've checked for something obvious like a loose hose i didn't tighten properly, but to me it all seems the way it was before. Mods are: FMIC 3" exhaust Any ideas on what my problem is, or where and how to go about starting fault finding? Any help appreciated

*update* Well I've gone with the hypergear hi flow option, sent it off last week. When i took the turbo off it was the shaft that had sheered off, flush with the seals. Few little gouge marks where the wheel had impacted the housing on the way out, but other than that nothing too major. Got to thinking over the last week to where the shaft and wheel ended up, so it took the exhaust apart tonight and im glad i did. Starting at the dump pipe, you can see a slight mark where the wheel has spiraled down the dump pipe, looking in the other end theres a solid yellowish mark where the wheels impacted, followed by lots of little mounds, kind of like when you throw a clump of dirt at concrete, except this time with ceramic. After that i found the majority of my exhaust wheel at the beginning of the cat, in about a million pieces. But, there was no sign of the shaft which the wheel was connected too that sheered off. Im not too familiar with the setup of the stock internals, but i assumed that the shaft would have been metalic, and survived the trip down the dump pipe. There's no way it got through the cat, it wasnt damaged at all, and nothing bigger than a grain of rice is passing through there, so any idea where it could be? or am i wrong in presuming the shaft is metal, and it has infact blown up. Also, there's a bit of mention on ingesting ceramic dust back into the cylinder, causing damage. Is this likely to occur? With the exhaust side being separate to the intake side, and the car accelerating at time of failure im having trouble to see how people have had this occur Cheers guys, thanks for the informative replys so far

question, how would blowing the exhaust wheel potentially be able to damage the pistons and bores? What are the likelihood that it could happen?

Link? Is that rebuild or new? Also been reading around about some people killing engines with the ceramic dust created when the turbo lets go, how probable is it that this could have happened? as i recall i gave it a punch at about 3500rpm and it let go instantly once it left vacuum, and i held it there long enough for me to look down and read the boost gauge at 0 before i backed off.

Just took the r33 gtst to the shops and on the way back, went to boost and had a large cloud of grey smoke come out the back, and the car will no longer boost so im assuming my turbo has given up Currently the car has minor mods, FMIC, 3inch exhaust and was running 10psi. For a bit of scope, im happy with how the car preforms and am not looking for more power. Id prefer to maintain the early response the stock turbo gives, and not have to get a new ECU and tune. But im not against a minor power upgrade if the bang for buck is there. So what are my options? New turbo or is a rebuild with steel wheel worth it? What costs am i looking at?

i did take one, but when i got back i had a pm with the correct one, thanks for the efforts but

That is not the correct hose, i need one for r33 series 2, it is mostly straight with a bend upwards and entire length is covered in similar silver insulation

Im after the A/C hose thats wrapped in insulation and runs next to the dump pipe and connects to the pipe running through the firewall. Please Pm if you have one Cheers

Any A/C parts? Specifically the hose wrapped in insulation that runs next to the dump pipe?

Got results of 20 and 30 in diag which points to all sensors good, and the temps read 39 out and 42 in which was about right for today

Since I've had the car, the air con hasn't worked. Now that its getting hot im looking to get it working as it wont blow cold air. Where do i start and what are things to check before i end up taking it to an A/C joint? Car is a 96 R33 Series 2 Cheers

I'm after an 10psi R32 wastegate actuator for my R33. Will pickup in Sydney or pay for postage from elsewhere. Please PM if you have one

Thanks, i was pretty happy with the time, probably only about another .1 in it if id gotten everything perfect, most runs were 165km/h over the line so it was very consistant. Hey, on a cold night i might even get under 13.5. This was only on stocker rims aswell with the cheapest 205 tires money can buy. But putting the new belt on today, i have no idea how i managed to pop the old one off, those things are on tight. I think i can count my lucky stars the cars still running, cause people who saw it thought id slammed on the brakes. Still ran a 14.1 aswell

Was out at the drags tonight and at the top of 3rd i went to grab 4th and have accidentally grabbed 2nd at 140km/h. Car compression locked, but i managed to clutch it pretty much straight away. Car is a r33 GTST S2, only thing that felt wrong afterwards was that i had no power steering, and i found the power steering belt wrapped around the alternator but still in one piece. Everything else seemed ok and i even put in 2 more runs afterwards. Just wanting to see if there's any other things i should check after such a big, brief over-rev. For those interested i ran a 13.6 with FMIC and 3inch exhaust at 10psi

Yes i realise that i'll start loosing power, im happy enough to run 10psi, not looking for anymore. As for testing the accuator, what would i use to build up 20psi on it?

could you expand a little more on the symptoms of a split diaphragm and a replacement part?

Yeah i did one thing at a time, wouldnt go past 11 psi with the boost controller in at first and was dropping slightly at higher revs like most cars instead of going up like it was. Was a bit hard to tell if it was just the hot day here or the plate keeping the boost levels down so i removed the controller and just used wastegate to hold boost and it sat rock solid on 7, when in the same configuration it didnt before. It was this thread that basically led me to trying the restrictor, and he had already replaced the wastegate http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3....html&st=60 It may just be a certain stage of mods that make this happen, combined with a certain dump pipe. Looking around i noticed it was common on supra's to need a restrictor plate aswell

Well i had another go at it today with great results. Made up a restrictor plate with a 2 1/2 in hole in it and put it in where the muffler bolts up, plumbed boost lines straight into the waste-gate actuator and took it for a drive. Boost sat solid at 7psi, previously setup like this it would be hitting 14 psi. Plumbed in the boost controller set to 10 psi, started at 10 psi, crept to 11 then dropped off to 9.5 towards the top of the rev range. Very happy with results and i guess ill stick on a 2.5" muffler as a permanent fix

Pulled the actuator rod off and as expected car would not build any boost at all

I've tried that, That is how it was when i first purchased it. To expand a bit, it does seem to be rev related, that it will hold 10psi, then creep up to 14 the harder it revs

The boost controller has no effect, when i got the car, it didn't even have a controller, that blue line was just T-peiced onto the black line and connected straight to the waste gate. Turbo is stock