Sparky206

Hey guys, The problem I am having is that i can not get my car to hold a consistent boost level. Boost will jump around between 10-14 PSI which is causing me major issues with what i assume is the ECU going into R&R mode from what I've gathered reading around here. The previous owner has installed a 3 inch turbo back exhaust along with a FMIC, after which he said the boost level rose to 12 psi, which in reality can be anywhere from 10-14 psi. This is how it is currently set up. Ignore the T-piece $30 boost controller, It was originally running straight hose in its place and it has had no effect on boost levels since adding it The problem that this is causing is a major flat spot in the rev range between 3.5-5000 RPM. It basically kicks in boost hard at 2500RPM, feels like I'm only on 3/4 throttle for 3.5-5000RPM then kicks hard again to redline. From what I've read this seems like the engine is going into R&R mode as I'm maxing out the airflow meter at 14psi. I think i confirmed this when i reset the ECU, the car felt like it was on 3/4 throttle for the first 5 minutes, then after that I'm assuming as the ECU learned A/f ratios again it leaned out most of the rev range and the car felt the same again. From reading around here, it has been suggested that the 3 inch exhaust is not causing enough back pressure for the waste-gate to function correctly because air is flowing too freely through the turbo and there is not enough pressure for the air to need to flow through the waste gate. The fix for this would be fitting a 2.5 inch muffler only to increase pressure throughout the rest of the system. Quoted at $380 but seems weird as most people would be running 3 inch exhausts and mufflers here. Any ideas on whats causing the boost to jump around so much? This isnt spiking either, it'll jump to about 14psi and stay there. Plugs are brand new coppers, the NGK ones with the recessed tip, gapped to 0.8. Coils have been siliconed to eliminate them but they looked alright and i couldnt see any arcing at night before i did them so im pretty sure they were ok. Cars only done 65,000km, Series 2 I'm only looking to run 10psi so i can avoid R&R issues. Cheers

Im starting to run out of ideas now, my S2 R33 GTS-T's running FMIC, 3" exhaust turbo back, 10 psi of boost. Siliconed up the coils, which didnt show any obvious signs of arcing anyway, and replaced the plugs with some R4561A-7 plugs (0.7 gap) which have the recessed tip then reset the ECU. Car was generally unresponsive throughout the entire rev range for the first 5 minutes, then gained some more punch from about 5000rpm onwards, like it did before. Am i right in assuming that the ECU was re-learning and for the first five minutes was over fueling, before leaning out after 5000rpm? Bit stumped as to what my next option is though. Between 3000-5000 rpm it basically feels as if the car is only on 3/4 throttle, then kicks harder after that. The stock boost controller has been removed Any ideas?

willing to post to sydney?

I think it has been put togeather wrongly before, judging by how rounded the screws were. I have no problems getting the assembly out, ive had it out 4 times now. Its just that any adjustment i make, means that i can not get the green screws to line up again

Yes im running out of teeth and thats whats stopping it. Problem is that to get the 4 green screws in, the window has to be at the same position each time, otherwise they do not line up. Meaning that if i adjust it while its out, i end up having to run the motor a bit to rotate the screw holes so that they line up, then im back where i started. it doesnt matter if the window is up or down, to get the screws to line up, the window and hence gear needs to be at the correct spot, what im looking for is how to change this spot about 6 teeth further up

The red circle is where the accual motor is behind the panel. The 4 green dots are the 4 screws that hold the assembly in place The 2 red dots are the screws that control the levelness of the window The blue circle is the alligned bolt The 3 green circles are where the screw holes line up, in relation the the visible screws In the first picture you can see my main problem, that is where the window stops at the fully down position. The reason that the window stops in this position is because the gear that the motor turns runs out of teeth before the window is fully down. When in the up position, there is still a further 12 spare teeth remaining on the gear, with wear marks a further 6 teeth up, leading me to assume that it has worked correctly before. I've had the assembly out a number of times trying to make an adjustment. Ive been removing the motor and rotating the gear to the correct allignment then replacing the motor, but this is where i have a problem. When i re install the assembly into the door, i can only get one screw to line up (blue screw 2nd pic). The 3 other screws holes (green dots 2nd pic) are slightly off when compared to the screws. I cant find a way to rotate the assembly once it is in the door as its in there firm and wont budge. The only way i can adjust it is by using the motor, which then rotates the assembly until the screws line up. Problem being when i rotate it using the motor, im loosing the 6 extra teeth ive gained when i adjusted it, and i end up back where i started. How am i able to make an adjustment to the gear so that i gain 6 teeth, without changing the alignment of the motor assembly so that i have the green screws line up when i re install the assembly? Cheers

What paint code of silver is it? and does it match the original paint or is it noticably off colour

Thanks mate, still having some issues, ill shoot you a pm

Not to mention youd have to keep the engine bay sparkling

Thats some serious coin in that garage

Hey guys, Ive done a search and cant really find someone whos had the same problem. My drivers side window works fine going up and down, but the problem being that it stops at the bottom with about 3inchs of the window still exposed, kinda looks like the rear windows in commodores how they dont go all the way down. I've pulled the door trim out and had a feel around the whole bottom edge of the window and played around with it to see if theres anything blocking its path, but it all seems fine, it doesnt seem to be hitting anything thats making it stop. Car is a R33 series 2 Any ideas? Cheers Edit: Just had a better play with it, it looks like the curved gold gear with the teeth it uses to go up and down runs out of teeth and thats why its stopping, so basically its running out of teeth before the window is fully down. It probably only needs about 3-4 teeth of adjustment, so how can i rotate that wheel to adjust it without the window moving?