AYW550

momo, the holes make it grip your palm quite well and adds a nice bit of weight so the shifting feels more positive

sorry its not turbo!

couldnt you just take a fuse (batt or ign) out when ever you leave it un-attended?

hmm, well ive replaced my entire exhaust, including extractors and im sure im now getting better fuel economy and im sure my driving styles before and after have been similar .... and i thought that the bigger diamter pipes and straighter lines allowed exhaust gas to excape faster and the engine would be able to push the exhuast out easier and not have to work as hard?? i could be all wrong too tho, lol

hey im changing the trans (manual) and diff and probably transfer oil in my skyline... ive got a r34 gt4, so does that mean it has LSD diffs? if it does, which i think it does, would castrol LSX90 go good in them?

yup, sorry, thats what i was thinking when i suggested exhaust...the aftermarket being better on fuel for open highway cruising and not hooning your way about town and im really hoping he meant 20000km since a "full service"!!

high flow filter and high flow exhaust, after that something like a Power FC

hmm, dodgy alarm eh? very well could be, i never thought of that one, im pretty sure the alarm system has been on it for quite a few years, how would i diagnose it? thanks alot for the idea!

any ideas anyone? could it have been a dodgy fuse? it was really dry that day so nothing would have been damp i dont think, but i had just gone over a series of jutter bars (fairly sowly) directly before the noises started, and then maybe i in-advertently fixed it when i checked the fuses if one had been just slightly poped up? anyone think a fuse that was just slightly out of place could have caused my symptoms?

^ +1

so i was out for a drive today and was almost home when for seemingly no reason i started to hear this "ka-chunck" "ka-chunck" noise, over and over again, with a faint clicking noise at the same time, i turned my radio down and after a few seconds realised that the ka-chunk noise was the cars central locking system trying to repeatedly un-lock all four doors (even tho they were already unlocked) and the clicking noise was the same noise you'd hear if my hazard lights were on (but were not actually flashing) the car kept running fine the entire time and i was almost home so i pulled in my drive and turned the car off and removed the key from the ignition, and both noises continued!!!! i had to disconnect my battery to get it to stop, checked my fuse box and everything looks fine, reconnect the battery and it started doing both noises again!! disconnected the batt again and this time held the bakes on to drain any reserve power and it still did both noises when i reconnected the batt, for a third time i disconnected the batt and this time left it disconnected for about 10 min and now the noises have stopped upon reconnection any ideas what was happening ??? as far as i know the cars entire electrical system is stock except for a cd player and speakers installed ages ago and its never done anything like this before thanks for any ideas/help

the information i read once could be wrong, but the n/a r34 manual is supose to have ~15kw more over the auto mine is manual and its been great!

yeah now im with ya, sry for my confusing term, and thankyou for the answer. it was exactly what i was looking for!

you getting a brain is a start, lol i thought it obvious to all that the car would have gotten a car an alignment when lowered, what kind of a shop would let it leave without doing one in the first place! so yes the factory ones are fully turned out ive asked if i will need a new alignment with just raising the hight 20mm or so in the rear and yes i can afford it and its prolly better then what uve got

my suspension can have its ride height adjusted simply by unbolting the bottom legs and turning them, i dont have a clue what your talking about drilling new holes

hey guys, so ive got to much negative camber and its eating up my rear tires, im planning to get adjustable camber arms, but in the mean time, can i simply jack my car up and turn out the lower shock tubes to increase my ride hight (only like 20-30 mm) so what i want to know is, can i straight up adjust my ride hight in the rear without needing an allignment or anything like that??? thanks!

actually, my r34 had had stored the fault code primary ignition failure 21... we tested it when the light was off then tested it again when it came on ( which was litteraly a drive around the block later, lol) just to be sure and of course it was the coils.

any luck getting the cams in? results?

turns out that my front passenger calliper is seized on shop is taking it apart now, i had this happen on the rear before too, was caused by a flap of rubber comming off inside the brakeline and acting as a oneway valve... wonder what the damage will be

i think its a combination of a few factors,...the type of metals used, the type of sound deadening material used to pack the muffler and the fact that inside a high flow oval muffler there is simply more surface area to obsorbe the sound waves

i put an oval stainless dual tip power pro muffler on mine and its very high flow (you can see straight thru it via two, 2.5 tubes inside the muffler) but it was just as loud as any cannon even with a resonator and i later had to put a muffler+resonator 2in1 muffler in the system right after my extractors and before the other resonator!

thanks for the replies, deffinately sounds like a future up-grade!

yeah ill have them take a good look at it for its next WOF this month and let yas know what they say, seems quite a mystery - went on a wee road trip last week and it was fine at first for about 10km , then it started shaking a litle bit then got worse, didnt matter how fast or slow i went then about 10 km later it sumhow fixed its self and was perfectly smooth for the remaining 400km trip, but then did it briefly again the next day driving to work

i just did a full custom exhaust on my 4 door r34, all up it cost me roughly $1200 NZD including takes, shipping, labour which included -exhaust gasket -coby exctractors -full 2.5 mandrel bent pipe (dont go 3" will be useless amount of flow untill your doing at least 100km and very sluggish at speed in town, even with 2.5 ive had to use my gears alot differently to get the low torque out of it (mines manual, would be real shit on a auto i reckon) - a high flow 8 inch resonator (stainless) and later had to add a 2-in-1 high flow muffler+resonator (stainless) in btw the other resonator and extractors to get the noise down, , , trust me, its disgustingly loud (outside) and drony (in the cabin) without a proper muffler, sounded cool at first tho from outside the car , and even now it can be loud if you drive it loudly and even if your not fussed with the noise the, cops will be - a dual 3" tip euro style muffler (stainless) but ya, its a fun mod building it up yourself , making it custom

yeah man...im not to familiar with the tiptronic, mines a manual...and my other car that had the slipping belt was a manual, and would squeal often when changing gears up or down due to the changing loads and speeds of the motor versus the rest of the car ...but usually with the belts its pretty clear that its coming from the front, i just cant think of anything else it could be, does the 'jolt' pull the car foraward or let it slow backward?? cos i would attribute the 'jolt' to be the belt catching and griping and thus puling the car forward again or slipping and letting it backward like i said i dont know anything about the tiptronic but i cant think of any parts of it that would squeal or squeak, after all, isnt it just gears controled by electrical signals from the paddel shiters?