AYW550

got the front lifted up, the bushing do look like they are showing their age with a bit of cracking on the outside but cant move the wheel forward or back...

are you sure its not a belt slipping? i cant think of anything in the bac that might make such a noise, and sometimes its easy for noises to sound like they are coming from places they arent, one time i was sure that my ac compressor had threw its bearings, cos of a loud scraping noise (also got some disgusted looks!) but turned out to be a rear brake pad stuck on and wearing thru the pad i recently had a car with a slipping drive belt and it would squeal in almost the exact same situations u have mentioned i suggest you try a can of that sticky belt spray stuff just to quickly and cheaply eliminate or target the problem of a slipping belt and if it squeals when reved while sitting still in neutral i dont see how any squealing noise can come from the rear of the car, has anyone had a listen while outside the car??

another confusing trait of this problem is that if its doing the shaking when i park the car up for awhile, the shaking will most offen have cured its self and be gone the next time i drive the car!

never happens as a result of braking, although when it is shaking and i do need to brake, its strong enough to make the brake pedal 'pump' i know what you mean and its a much different feeling then that feeling of waves in the road

i use BP regular 91, never had any issues, runs smooth, ands gets nearly 600km on a tank

yeah seems like a split descision really, id want one for looks just as much as for handling benefits, (but doesnt seem like there are many) any one driven their car before and after a strut brace? also, how much do they get in the way of working on your car? like in the way of the intake and stuff, would be a pain to tkae it off and on whenever i was under the hood

nah no rubbing, unless im full lock but even then its just on the plastic bits inside the fenders

thanks mate, good idea, ill check em out this weekend

im not sure why, but sometimes when i drive my car i get a really bad shake in the steering wheel, i can tell its deffinately coming from the front passenger wheel, as the shaking is sometimes so bad that it sounds like a helicopter! but its weird how it does it ,like i might drive the car 3 or 4, or more, times to work, a distance of 30km each way and it will never do it, then one time it will decide to do it, but generally it will only shake and shutter for a few km's, regardless of speed, and then it will somehow, almost magically, drive out of it and be super smooth ive never hit a curb or any big holes, my wheels were aligned almost a year ago when i got the car lowered and my rims came balanced already, all my brakes and other suspension parts are standard parts and the car drives dead straight, virtually no pull either left or right, it even drive pretty straight when shaking the car never did it before i got new wheels and lowered, any ideas what could be going on here? could it be a worn bushing or tie rod end or something? thanks all

well obviously im wondering how much of a difference in handling the front strut bar makes ive lowered my car and taken out the entire a/c system and shifted the batter to the rear of the car and already it handles about a thousand times better i almost got one put on the car when i lowered it, but the shop that installed my new shocks and lowered the car reckoned that because of the suspension design on the front of skylines, a strut bar doesnt make much difference, but obviously it must make a difference if a gtr gets one.... right? what do you guys/girls think? thanks!

ill try and get a pic up tonight, but yeah its sorta like a really smooth sparkly alloy finish under neath... now that i think about it, the bare chipped spots have been exposed for awhile now and there has been no rusting or anything...

im keen to do this upgrade too at some point, so im looking forward to the feedback/results you get, i think i've read that you will need to use gtr valves?

well either way, its clearly been shipped off from stones, which is not a manufactures defect, and im sure all they would say is to send them the rims so they can see them, which im sure would take at least a month just to have them returned anyone have any experince in what might work well to take the paint off??

they are just about a year old now and yeah i thought about the warrenty if tere even is one but i dont have an alternate set of wheels to use and the places where the paint has started to come off is on the leading edge of the spokes and technically is probably the result of some stone chipping thus voiding any warrenty that might be left on the rims, however the silver surface underneath has not been dented or damaged in any way by the possible stones being the culpret

sorry if this has been covered before, but ive got a set of rims that are losing their (factory) glossy black paint. when i originally bought the rims i had a choice btw silver and black. i was going for a black on silver theme with the car so chose black. now the paint is starting to come off, like i can scrape it off with my finger nail in places where its started to come off. and underneath is the original silver colour of the metal rim (which i now quite like the look of, lol) the surface of the metal under the black is smooth and sorta like a metalic silver. i didnt realize that all the company did to make them black was simply paint over the silver finish!! no wonder it didnt stick for long, so now i want to try and make them all silver and want to know what you guys reckon could be the best way to do this with out damaging the silver finish underneath im thinking either a chemical paint striper or wone of those plastic bristle type drill attachments you can get for paint removal thanks all for any help p.s. its the 5 spoke rims in my avatar

hey man, try asking 666DAN, he seems to know alot about the r34 wiring system

ok sry my bad, thx for clearing that up so a catch can would at least have a benifit of keeping the TB cleaner

so i think the question still remains, how does this oil get there and where is it comming from?? and yes i too have a pod and custom intake

ive had this before, also noticed mine when replacing coils and plugs, i also thought it was a worry but car runs mint, i asked around here and everyone said it was common/normal, although im still not sure why or how is gets there

by the sounds of it he doesnt have hicas, and he asked how to top up the attessa resevoir

im pretty sure it was something called Nissan 'ATF fluid' not sure if other brands make atf fluid, it prolly costs a small fortune lol

i had a similar question about that canister on my gt4 a wee while ago,... sucks when everything is in japanese eh! anyways, , that canister is actually it turns out that that resevoir is for the ATTESSA 4wd system and yes your hicas should be bolted onto the rear diff, if its not there then you must not have it. my gt4 doesnt have it either

+1 i had the exact same problem, just a little light coming on once and a while, also thought it was just cos of damp weather, no noticable misfire at first either (stock exhaust does a good job of hiding the misfire)...took almost 2 years of slowly getting worse before it got very bad and car was nearly undriveable , , , bit the bullet and replaced all of my coils (and plugs just cos they were overdue) and the car has never been better since - turned out all 6 of my coils were infact blown but there are also some interesting discussion that OEM replacement coils are better then aftermarket, (i replaced mine with aftermarket cos is cheaper) most people dog on the r34 coils really bad, but to be honest im pretty impressed that the OEM coils withstood almost 12 years of engine heat before packing in, ill be happy if my aftermarket ones last half that long!

ok cool, nope not confusing, now i know that it is 40mm of dish that i have, due to the width and location of the offset. so infact i probably dont have much offset at all