AYW550

is dish the same as offset? lol, maybe a stupid question, maybe i got 40mm of dish, because my rims put most of their width toward the outside of the rim... but i was just wondering why 'roll' a wheel well, because yes mine cut a groove thru the plastic on the inner-most part of the wheel well(front only and at full lock) , but doesnt 'rolling' refer to the metal lip of the wheel well being made deeper?

you'l be sweet with that size, i put 18x9.5 +40 with 235x40 tires on my r34 and only experinced a small bit of scrubbing on the inside front well gaurds when turning at full lock, but it doesnt take long for the tires to cut a groove thru the plastic and now the scrubing is gone

alright cool, lots of good points, thanks guys

hey n-dawg, ive been thinking of wrapping my extractors , is the only way to prevent the wrap from causing corrosion to have them HPC coated first? i tried painting mine with woodstove paint rated to 650 degree celsius and was recommended on the can as being good enough for manifolds but its already flaking off

im not sure ay, lol, im originaly from canada and nobody back home ever seems to change cam belts, but yea, i never should have let it get so far over, but i wont be driving it more then a few hundred km's before i get it changed so fingers crossed, what oil u running? a thicker oil could help compression (lots of threads here on that) or the throttle body might need a good clean out, did you change plugs when you got new coils? cos ur plugs will be just over their limit now, i just changed mine with my coils and they were buggered

my brand new D2 coil overs knock in the front the odd time if i hit a hard or deep bump, but for mine its a knock being caused by the shock 'topping out' on its recoil...sounds rough but i dont think its hurting anything

2 words, 'cam' and 'belt' lol, mine is about 20 thousand over due for a change and i cant wait to get it changed, (will be done very soon) but i just changed the cam belt on my much smaller and more economical daily driver and its about a 500 dollar job but felt like a whole new car after(was 64,000 over due from previous owners) , way quicker and more responsive as the new belt puts the timing back in place p.s. i know my car is way over due so dont grill me to bad lol, just got away on me with other upgrades and i only have time to drive it once or twice a week anyways cos of work atm

hey mate, im in NZ also, ive done all the same mods and after getting some advice from a couple of people on here i reckon the next best upgrade is gonna be new cams, especailly if you got a 2k budget!, but from what ive read our r34's will also need gtr solid lifters or soemthing like that, plus labour, so now cams is prolly tipping over 2k but they are supose to be good for like 30 kw with a good tune?? right now im just focusing on cleaning up the engine bay and trying to make the car lighter anyway possible with future upgrades

thanks guys, good info here, id like to take it off the proper way but its an awful lot of work so good to have the heads up, and if i cut them off, i dont think id ever want them back on?

cool, should make a prety tidy job of it, thanks guys

i searched this but didnt get any results, so sorry if its already been covered i want to remove those ugly rotor gaurds and was wondering if anyone has done this b4 and knows whats involved, i cant find any bolts on the backside of the gaurds and am thinking they might be spot welded on on the rotor side of the gaurd??? thanks for any help you can give!

ok sweet thx guys

hey guys, well i just took the intake off of my r34 so i could paint the valve covers and noticed a thin layer of un-burnt, clean engine oil just sitting inside the plenum on either side of the butter fly valve, is this bad? lol i had it apart a couple of weeks ago to replace my coils but never noticed the oil then.... any thoughts ? like why and how the oil is there, or should it be there?

the shop who installed my pod removed the entire hose and ive had no ill effects

so my r34 neo is overdue for a cambelt change, and im just curious how hard it is to do on your own??? im assuming ill also need to replace the tensioner pulley aswell does anything besides the timing cover need to be taken off, like any of the other belts to allow easier access? how easy to the cam gears turn once the belt is off? i know i shud make a reference mark on them incase they move but they shouldnt move cos all the engine internals will be holding them inplace right? maybe its actually a really hard job and cant or shouldnt be done yourself, im just curious and always keen to save money on labour when possible thanks in advance for any advice!

a couple of years ago, when my r34 gt4, with manual and four doors was completely stock the best i ever got on a tank of gas was 580ish km that was on BP 91 and i filled it up to the point where it almost poured out onto the ground! and i drove a good 25 km after the fuel light came on, prolly 90 percent of those km's was on mostly flat highway and i drove very conservatively, but even if id been driving in town with alot of stop and go id always get somewhere btw 450-500km also i think there is alot to be said for driving at 90kmh an hour versus 100-110kmh, but its awful hard to bare being passed on the highway! now ive done quite a few mods while keeping it N/A and need a good tune-up so im not sure what my milage is like now

totally, its been like 2 months since i could really drive it and enjoy it without that light comming on and it running like shit, was really making me pretty dark about the whole thing

anyone have any idea whats involved in getting those ugly rotor gaurds off of a r34?

got my new coils and plugs in (the coils turned out to have a red casing after all) and now my car runs better then ever before, idles super low and very smooth, no sign of the engine light, thank god

just google it

turns out that the red ones in the pic are the coils for a r32, lol but all they could tell me was they are all black casing and get them from the same place in tiawan where they make the splitfires and they have a 12 month warrenty under the store, but im pretty impressed with the factory ones even tho they all blew, cos after all they are 12 years old!

you can get them with lighter springs if you want, mine are alot lighter, like 6 and 4 kg...cos yeah we arnt allowed to use the heavy track set up on public roads either, and you can adjust the spring stiffness quite alot within its weight range, ive driven a mates mitsu GTO with tein shocks and its rock hard compared to my set up. personally i think my handling is very good, D2 are also very stiff laterally, i reckon their great value for the money

new coils ordered and paid for, will have my car back together and running in a few days, cant wait!, ill let you know how shes goes after!!

awsome answer man, alot of good points, looks like cams will be next, thanks!