25stagea

so is this definatly a genuine autech as it appears to have a auto dash in it ?

I would not recomend you put a optima in . I work for a battery sales company and the optima are way too over priced and they have a warranty but to actualy use it is like pulling teeth. if you need a battery with high cca out put but still an amp hour rating i would suggest you run a dry power 12v 26ah wich is what i have in my car. they are lighter and smaller then a optima and still have good cca ( 600 cca @ 5sec) and good Ah ( 26amps @ 20min). you should be able to get one of these from any battery shop , if they dont have a dry power you can use any SLA ( sealed lead acid) battery that is rated for cycle use and not stand by. if you want any more info just ask.

so what kit did you put in the box and hows it to drive with ?

Ok so whats the deal with this adaptor plate could you just weld up the holes and re-drill or is the gasket face of the sumps different. also what would the auto handle as im thinking build motor , run in and then do manual conversion lachy. also thanks agin for the spin Neil , has made me think a lot ...

Ive got a 97 S1 rs4 but i have same motor as car B , i don't know about the ecu. So dose this make my engine a neo or dose it just use some of the parts , if so What?

the quickest way to check your alternator and starter motor is to get a multimeter set to volts and put accros battery mesure the volts then get someone to statr the car while you watch the multimeter. It should not drop below about 10.5 volts if none of the acc are on now with the car running the alternator should be putting out around 13.5v to 14.2v. if the volts drop below 10.5 when starting you could have a problem with the starter motor polling out wich means it is earthing its self so therefore all of your power will just be going into the earth rather than into turning the starter. As for the battery put a charger on it ( about 10 amps) and see if you can get rid of some of the sulfation off the plates , wich is what happens when a battery runs flat. I'm running a small SLA (Sealed lead acid ) battery wich has around the 600 cca but it also can be used as a deep cycle battery i.e run accessories. I use it to run lights off the plug in the back for when i do call out's ( i work for a battery shop) If you have any more problems just ask.

Rb26stagea i will try to get pics up tomorow

DanMcd you hit nail on the head mate thats waht ive been thinking. Im gonna go to perth soon and take a test drive in a Autech and see if the money is worth it. To up grade will cost me about 10-14k more than what my Rs4 set me back so i could build one hell of a stagea for that sort of coin. I wonder if you could get a stage under the 9 sec mark ha ha

yeah i was going to use the sump of my car and as for the block there is no difference except for what bolts on I had also considered using a S2 sequential shift auto , i just think the auto's are to slow to shift.

hey guys i have a 97 rs4 that i picked up for 9 k , i also have a spare 25 sitting in a mates shed. What im trying to decide is do i convert my car to manual and build up a forged 25 Or do i go out and buy a autech. I have already upgraded my sway bars to adjustable whiteline And i have done a r33 brake conversion. My rs4 is in realy good condition and alredy has a standard body kit on ( different to most not shaw what it is ) any opinions on this would be great, also if some one has an autech are they much better ???

yeah this gives me the shits Also every bloody P plater in a sil wants to race me "WHY"

i tried re bleeding the brakes as i thought that might have been what was making the pedel feel spungy and long in travel , but it didnt make a difference. i think i will try fitting a 33 boster and master cylinder as they are 33 brakes i am using

Hey all ive done a r33 gtst brake conversion and now need to up grade my booster and master cylinder to cope with the new brakes has any body done this if so what have you used ( out of what car) cheers Lachy

yeah all the bleed nipples are at the top. i might have to bleed the brakes again.

ok so ive finished the brake conversion and it does all fit. i decided that i would remove the dust shield off of the rear as it didnt look to good this can be done with a chisel as they are only spot welded in place. the brakes are amazing compared to standard. The only problem is pedal feel , either there is still air in the lines or the master cylinder is just too small to cope with the extra caliper pistons. I will re-bleed the brakes this week and see if it makes a difference , if not i will have to look at changing over the master cylinder to maybe a r33 or gtr one it will all depend on what fits. If anybody has done this i love to hear how it went and what master cylinder you used. lachy