25stagea

so is this definatly a genuine autech as it appears to have a auto dash in it ?

I would not recomend you put a optima in . I work for a battery sales company and the optima are way too over priced and they have a warranty but to actualy use it is like pulling teeth. if you need a battery with high cca out put but still an amp hour rating i would suggest you run a dry power 12v 26ah wich is what i have in my car. they are lighter and smaller then a optima and still have good cca ( 600 cca @ 5sec) and good Ah ( 26amps @ 20min). you should be able to get one of these from any battery shop , if they dont have a dry power you can use any SLA ( sealed lead acid) battery that is rated for cycle use and not stand by. if you want any more info just ask.

so what kit did you put in the box and hows it to drive with ?

Ok so whats the deal with this adaptor plate could you just weld up the holes and re-drill or is the gasket face of the sumps different. also what would the auto handle as im thinking build motor , run in and then do manual conversion lachy. also thanks agin for the spin Neil , has made me think a lot ...

Ive got a 97 S1 rs4 but i have same motor as car B , i don't know about the ecu. So dose this make my engine a neo or dose it just use some of the parts , if so What?

the quickest way to check your alternator and starter motor is to get a multimeter set to volts and put accros battery mesure the volts then get someone to statr the car while you watch the multimeter. It should not drop below about 10.5 volts if none of the acc are on now with the car running the alternator should be putting out around 13.5v to 14.2v. if the volts drop below 10.5 when starting you could have a problem with the starter motor polling out wich means it is earthing its self so therefore all of your power will just be going into the earth rather than into turning the starter. As for the battery put a charger on it ( about 10 amps) and see if you can get rid of some of the sulfation off the plates , wich is what happens when a battery runs flat. I'm running a small SLA (Sealed lead acid ) battery wich has around the 600 cca but it also can be used as a deep cycle battery i.e run accessories. I use it to run lights off the plug in the back for when i do call out's ( i work for a battery shop) If you have any more problems just ask.

Rb26stagea i will try to get pics up tomorow

DanMcd you hit nail on the head mate thats waht ive been thinking. Im gonna go to perth soon and take a test drive in a Autech and see if the money is worth it. To up grade will cost me about 10-14k more than what my Rs4 set me back so i could build one hell of a stagea for that sort of coin. I wonder if you could get a stage under the 9 sec mark ha ha

yeah i was going to use the sump of my car and as for the block there is no difference except for what bolts on I had also considered using a S2 sequential shift auto , i just think the auto's are to slow to shift.

hey guys i have a 97 rs4 that i picked up for 9 k , i also have a spare 25 sitting in a mates shed. What im trying to decide is do i convert my car to manual and build up a forged 25 Or do i go out and buy a autech. I have already upgraded my sway bars to adjustable whiteline And i have done a r33 brake conversion. My rs4 is in realy good condition and alredy has a standard body kit on ( different to most not shaw what it is ) any opinions on this would be great, also if some one has an autech are they much better ???

yeah this gives me the shits Also every bloody P plater in a sil wants to race me "WHY"

i tried re bleeding the brakes as i thought that might have been what was making the pedel feel spungy and long in travel , but it didnt make a difference. i think i will try fitting a 33 boster and master cylinder as they are 33 brakes i am using

Hey all ive done a r33 gtst brake conversion and now need to up grade my booster and master cylinder to cope with the new brakes has any body done this if so what have you used ( out of what car) cheers Lachy

yeah all the bleed nipples are at the top. i might have to bleed the brakes again.

ok so ive finished the brake conversion and it does all fit. i decided that i would remove the dust shield off of the rear as it didnt look to good this can be done with a chisel as they are only spot welded in place. the brakes are amazing compared to standard. The only problem is pedal feel , either there is still air in the lines or the master cylinder is just too small to cope with the extra caliper pistons. I will re-bleed the brakes this week and see if it makes a difference , if not i will have to look at changing over the master cylinder to maybe a r33 or gtr one it will all depend on what fits. If anybody has done this i love to hear how it went and what master cylinder you used. lachy

ok so ive started doing the brake conversion and here is what ive found so far the bolts wich hold the stagea calipers are different they need to replaced with ( HI TENSILE ) 12mm x 1.25mm x 45mm any longer and they will hit the disc. You can use the standard brake lines but you have to remove the collet that sits inside the threaded shank of the 33 caliper. I removed this with a self tapping screw turned in a couple of times and then pulled out. otherwise the rest of the front just bolts straight up. The rears are a bit different. First you need to trim the lip off of the dust shield as it hits the disc. I did this with a pair of tin snips to cut sections out of the lip and then folded them up and cut them off with a grinder. You could leave the dust shield folded up but i removed the lip as it looks a bit to doddgy for my liking. once again you can use the standard brake lines on the back you just have to do the same as the front and remove the collet. Be mindful if you do this conversion of your rims im running 17"s not shaw the offset but i have about 10mm between the caliper and the inside face of my rim. I will post up how much of a difference they make when i get the brakes bled. Lachy

Ok so my brakes turned up yesterday. i had a look last night and the fronts should fit . can some one confirm for me if 33 gtst rears will fit , i didnt have time to check last night. i got the whole lot front disc , rotors and pads. Rear rotors disc and pads all for $700 wich isnt bad.

thanx Jav360 that wright up is good mate. I know a guy with a 260 rs stripped half cut i might see if it still has the brake booster , i know the brakes are gone already. so 34gtt rears fit but what about 33, or is it just a case of try and see. i should have the full ste of 33 brakes here my mid week , will try to get them on by weekend and post up how it goes.

thanks guys. i dont know wether or not to go to 33 brakes. i can get 33 brakes cheaper than oem s1 stagea ones. "low brake pedal" do you mean that the pedal sits closer to the floor because of the difference in the brake booster ?

hey guys ive searched and cant find a yes or no answer. will R33GTST brakes fit a series 1 stag. I know the fronts should as they are the same as 32 gtr ones but its the rear i need to no about. i'm trying to get a fast answer as my brakes are f**ked and i cant get rear rotors anywhere so an upgrade is my only choice.

I am thinking of doing the same thing next year. Have been looking into what i can and cant bring back and it seems to depend on who you talk to , from what i have been told there doesnt seem to be any restrictions on what you can bring back , you just have to prove it's for you and not going to be resold, well thats what customs have told me anyway. Good luck Lachy

thanx SK i will use the pins supplied what settings did you have these bars on again? I thought it was soft front hard rear which makes sence to me otherwise it will just understeer like a GTR Lachy

hey SK I have ordered a set of the whiteline sway bars you are using ( $500 ) a pair delivered , but the guys at W.A. suspensions who sold them to me said not to use after market link pins as the mounts on the chassis then become the weak point , have you had any problems with this ? Lachy

hey SK I have ordered a set of the whiteline sway bars you are using ( $500 ) a pair delivered , but the guys at W.A. suspensions who sold them to me said not to use after market link pins as the mounts on the chassis then become the weak point , have you had any problems with this ? Lachy

Hey guys read this whole post but i'm still confused i want to get 19/8 with 245 or 265 if they will fit a 8" rim What i need to know before i order them is what offset will fit a 97 S1 Rs4 with standard suspension