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Everything posted by LaurelPWR
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Best sounding turbo outlet pipe (RB20/25)
LaurelPWR replied to smart_garrett's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
That's a R31house takoashi MAX manifold.... they are by far the nicest looking manifold for an RB and now long discontinued for the new version which is a direct replica of the gts-r manifold ? But yeah anyways...I have a gtsr manifold that's unfortunately been re-flanged and had a gate welded to it then removed and repaired at some stage....Cost me a packet too. -
Both vids are SR20 and both are in the USA soo.....but still better results than thought and certainly makes these an interesting one when comparing to gt and gtx frames.
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This is fantastic data mate! Would be a much faster car with your turbo compared to the eBay setup.
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Agreed. That article added absolutely no valuable information to this thread and if anything, could mislead a newcomer to the scene
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Cut and paste from Facebook: Same car, comparing with the GTX3582R it had on it earlier. THIS case shows a substantial spool improvement, but obviously needs more boost to make the same power - while it did match the GT30 psi for psi. No question it flows very much like a GTX30 series turbo, but would have been nice if the boost threshold was much like the GT28 sized turbos like the naming would have you hope
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Cut and paste post from Facebook: Probably one of the easiest to compare, this shows boost, torque and power for a G25-660 (solid lines) vs a Gen2 GTX3076R on an EVO. Very solid power from the frame, but not what you'd necessarily be expecting spool wise from a "2867 sized turbo"
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Shitchyeah that's the kind of data that makes my pants move. Good luck with it all man, keen to see what happens [emoji1365]
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Some before and after data is always a welcome sight [emoji1362] What's this replacing?
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This may be the integrated motorsport set up mentioned earlier... look like an amazing setup regardless, sporting a bunch of local Platinum fruit [emoji1362]? https://www.facebook.com/545029935656927/posts/989437111216205/
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G e e z u z . I realise now the title is a little misleading... Im mainly referring to weather or not the 25de neo vct gear had more degrees of adjustment over the 25det neo vct gear... sorry I didn't put "neo" after the last "Rb25det" in the topic title.. as I stated in my second comment, I'm aware there are differences between neo ans s1/2 and they aren't compatible..
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Yeah for sure man, Im not 100% clear on the difference in vct hardware between Neo and s1/2 either, but I think the solenoid body may be slightly different and I think the keyway on the cam/cam gear is different between the two as well so as you say, probably not interchangeable. Still though, I'm interested in what the det Neo and det s1/2 vct variability is [emoji848] it could be a nice little gain for very little $$ for a det neo..
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Good morning legends. While scanning yahoo Japan auctions I came across someone selling an RB25de Neo vct solenoid and cam gear as an upgrade for the RB25det Neo... They state that the 25de vct has 30° variability and can give gains to the 25det. I'll attach a screenshot of the auction page. Can anyone please confirm how many degrees of variability the rb25det s1/2 and rb25det Neo vct system has?? Cheers (:
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I reckon the GReddy cores are on par with anything else that's decent quality from the all the designs and construction methods I've seen anyways haha nothing wrong with the plazmaman either tho so you'll have a win for sure! I apologise in adavance as these results are on my RB25... I run an old GReddy Type M 700x300x76mm bar and plate intercooler that looks very similar to the ARE bar and plate cores. I make 355rwkw with 24psi on e85, with 20psi and 235wkw already available at 3700rpm. I haven't measured the IAT but I have a boost gauge plumbed into my runners after the throttles and my eboost2 plumbed into the compressor housing. I can safely say that I have almost zero pressure drop and both gauges measure almost identical psi at the same time throughout the entire rev range. When I do my routine hour long mountain run pushing hard, I like to stop and get out at a certain spot at the top and I always go straight to the front of the car and feel the cooler end tanks and piping, normally I can't hold my hand on the hot side for more than a few seconds as it's pretty darn hot haha but the cold side feels like its got ice blocks inside it and often has a thin wet condensation feel. I'll admit this isn't exactly conclusive data without knowing the IAT but it's a good sign lol
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That's crazy for such an expensive item...bloody all show and no go it seems with pwr..even their oil coolers look like they would have terrible flow. I was reading an old SAU thread this morning about coolers and one guy commented that he changed from a cooling pro to an entry level plazmaman and got good gains, here's a screen shot of that comment
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I'm surprised how shit the inside of that PWR looks.... the tubes are protruding into the end tank a good 6+mm and weld dags everywhere....welded plate end tanks certainly are a step down in flow from a cast end tank... The plazmaman easily takes the win out of those three!
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All intercoolers have some sort of "shortcomings" but it's about finding the right balance of flow and cooling efficiency for your desired set up. I think bang for buck and the fact that the plazmaman being probably the cheapest option of all the high end brands...you've made the rite choice.
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There's been plenty of top level time attack cars around the world running ARC, hypertune, Nismo, plazmaman, Mines etc. cores and a lot of those cars that run whatever brands are sponsored at that level so it's negligible anyways...but seriously, they are all great intercoolers and as I've already said, it really comes down to matching the core to the set up and end goal. I'm now a lot more unbiased to what brand has the most high profile cars running them or price tag and am trying to base my judgement on the science behind the different core types. It's been quite interesting learning more about it all actually and I have to admit, when I first started researching I assumed the hypertune would be the outright best haha but there really is no "best" intercooler, they all have their own strengths and weaknesses for sure (it's all about compromise) and as I keep saying, for best performance a core should be matched to the rest of the set up just like when choosing a turbo. There certainly is a "worst" intercooler tho and that's the poorly made, very low quality controlled materials and construction process of the Chinese types and even some oem type cores. I would love nothing more than to see some same day, same car, same set up, same dyno data results of all the high end brands from around the world. That would be porn!
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I could say the same about your opinions on the plazmaman and hypertune.. what basis do you have that their cores flow and cool better than any of the high end jap stuff...get over yourself man. Everything I've stated is unbiased data and knowledge taken directly from a company who's staff have a combined 56 years experience with radiator and intercooler technology.... and guess what, it's an Australian company. Just because the plazmaman or hypertune cost a shit ton of money and are partly hand assembled, doesn't mean they're any better than the next cooler. And to answer your question, no. I've never looked at a catalogue for any of the above intercoolers lol it's just basic science dude.
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Not necessarily, it's still extruded tube design like the old one but the tubes look to be full extruded tube and fin and stacked a lot closer together with less size to the fins in the new version tubes.. It looks like it would flow more and better but possibly at a slight cost to cooling efficiency [emoji848]
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I would love to see their cooler with cast end tanks!
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Ok...so that nismo looks like an older model and very similar to the older HKS and trust/GReddy cores I've seen, which are still a great design for big turbo, high kw applications and regardless of the protruding tube into the tank area, are the best flowing and strongest design by far having only three actual components to their construction. The charge air entry windows are larger and less restrictive on these types and additionally, the fully extruded tube/fin type core you see in these HKS, Trust, Nismo type cores fins have 100% cooling efficiency in that the fins are actually part of the tube structure and so are joined to the tube wall 100% everywhere which guarantees all the fins will absorb and disperse heat to the outside of the core. The nismo is absolutely overpriced though...If I was spending the big dollars, I would either go hypertune or ARC for sure. The hypertune runs a euro type core and are clearly excellent quality with a good design charge entry plate area, the apexes would promote flow and the large height of the entry windows would also further this. Plate and fin are more prone to failure though, as they have many more components to their construction which also makes them heavier but even without knowing where their cores come from, one would assume the hypertune is of all round top level quality. One compromise with the hypertune is the ambient air faces have straight flat fronts being bar and plate which don't cut through incoming air as well as the rounded bull nose face of the tube and fin types which flow better and get more air to that radiator Or even better again is the ARC with its delta or apex type ambient tube face that cuts air better while getting more cold air scrub across the angled face giving more cooling and great flow all in one My other and biggest complaint with the hypertune is the charge entry and exit being at the same height and direction on both ends... the ARC, plazmaman, Nismo, HKS, Trust, HPI and oem types all get the end tanks right with the slightly uneven entry to exit height and tank angle shape The uneven entry/exit helps mix charge air and fill the whole core more evenly thus preventing a certain percentage of pressure drop and getting a more efficient level of heat soak inside the core resulting in much more cooling. Like the above brand coolers, the hypertune does have an ok shaped end tank in that it has a straight merge from inlet pipe to core face This prevents flow eddies that like to form inside corners and promotes faster flow which is a good thing inside the larger 100mm+ and long coolers because by nature, the bigger the core, the bigger the surface area and the bigger the restriction/pressure drop can be. Intercoolers are like everything in the turbo game, it's all a compromise and about what suits your goals best.
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From what I've seen from plasmaman the ARC is a superior intercooler for both flow and cooling efficiency. They are both tube and fin which is great for 400kw and above but the ARC not only has altogether larger charge entry windows, but has smooth funnel shape entry faces around the edges of all its tubes on the charge entry side. compared to the poorly flowing entry of the plazmaman with its (dare I say) outdated 3-4mm protruding tube area in the intake charge end tank area that creates eddies and vortexes around these raised edges making the air do a 180° away from the entry and then another 180° back to the entry again. The ARC appears to have louvred, serrated and wavy fins in its core which all vary slightly in flow and pressure drop but are all very efficient at absorbing heat and creating chaotic flow which mixes the charge air around in each tube as it passes from hot side to cold side furthering heat absorption efficiency but again at a ever so slightly higher pressure drop. This minute pressure drop would more than likely be offset by the gain in denser cooler charge which in turn will obviously make more power. The fins inside the ARC also have a larger surface area on their "apex" where they contact the tube wall surface which gives a drastically better chance of all fins being fully fused to the tube wall which in turn guarantees the whole core will do its job absorbing heat and passing it onto the outer tube walls. The ARC also has delta fin or apexed ambient side tube faces which are proven to scrub heat more effectively than plain "bull nose" radius tube faces. The plazmaman core inside looks practically identical to my brothers HDI Gt2 $350 core inside but definitely has better end tanks than the HDI... The Nismo items are very similar in design to the ARC, so you may find that these apparently "outdated design" coolers might actually be a little ahead of thier time lol