LaurelPWR

What's Dico got to say on the matter?

Yeh... every time Garrett bring something new you the table, I little voice in my head says "it still looks nothing like an FP or EFR" haha

Looks like Garrett might finally be catching up haha

What is this new sorcery¿ Facebook screen shot: https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbochargers/g-series-g25-660

Dropped these to 5psi tonigh for roll racing and still getting the odd wheel spin on launch and change to 3rd haha

Thanks man (: It's very responsive having 240kw at 4krpm makes for a very fun street car indeed.

Update for my setup.... Same mods: Motor was rebuilt around 15k km ago with arp rod bolts/head studs acl bearings treated and prepped oem rods and crank Ross forged Pistons 1.2mm cometic gasket Tomei poncams Brand new oem lifters performance springs Apexi power fc turbosmart eboost2 R32 gtr itb's 4 inch hard intake pipe with apexi pod & z32 afm Cusco plumb back air oil separator splitfires Quest 125A alternator 740cc nismo injectors walbro 460 pump HKS 2835 Pro S 56T 0.87ar Turbosmart internal gate actuator hpi turbo manifold, exhaust special hks 2835 pro s dump pipe into a genuine hpi split front pipe into straight through 3 inch exhaust with no mufflers or cat etc...... Runs United E85 24psi Some small mods to my actuator yielded better spool, response and held boost stronger resulting in a 15hp better peak and 100hp gain at 3700rpm It's a blistering setup and an almost unbeatable street car being a light weight and highly tuned semi stripped s13 chassis and even my 315/30 nitto Nt01's can't get the power down anymore haha Responsive!!!!

Thanks Lith [emoji4] Would be interesting to see this setup with an external gate set up now [emoji848] But that won't be happening haha Now I'm just hoping my new hta3076 twin scroll setup can give same sort of response and a father mid/top end power band

SO......., It turns out the actuator bracket wasn't fixed stable and had movement when the actuator was loading and unloading boost... The noise it was making in my last post above was the internal gate flapper rattling around in the breeze at idle [emoji17] Because the actuator itself was moving around, the gate preload was changing or being lost altogether. I ended up welding the actuator brackets together to eliminate any movement and then I cut the linkage down and loaded a bit more preload and back to the dyno today. It now makes boost earlier than it ever has, made 20ish more peak HP and picked up 100hp at 3700rpm For a turbo of this size, it's quite a stout result and I now feel it's performing like it always should have... Remembering it's the .87 ar rear as opposed to all other 2835 pro S results on rb25's are .68 ar The car feels much faster on the road now and even my 315/30 nt01's can't cope anymore with this small but decent gain hahah [emoji4]

Picked up a second hand nismo for $1400. Thanks heaps for the offer tho mate (: Admin close thread please

Here's a video of the noise in the specific area and then the noise through the diy "stethoscope" .. waste gate noise.MOV

I did another boost leak test last weekend as my usual preventative maintenance... I normally put my "tap" tool into the start of the cooler hot pipe directly after the compressor outlet... But for a change I pressurised the compressor as well this time.. I put the "tap" at the statue of my air intake where the air flow meter normally goes and then put the usual 30-35psi through the system with my compressor and controlled via twin regulators and than spray soapy water on everything and look/listen for the bubble.. I found that the screws that hold the comp housing to the backing plate are leaking through their threads as the threaded holes go all the way through to the inside of the comp housing. I removed each bolt one at a time and liberally put some loctite 567 heigh pressure thread sealant on each one drove them back home... Retested and Problem solved. No leaks anywhere else. Then I checked and Re-tightened my four t3 flange bolts just to be sure (one was a little loose for my liking), hosed all the soap off and started the car to dry out the engine bay. This is when I noticed a strange reverberating, tinny, rattling sort of a noise at the dump/front pipe area... I had always heard a similar noise from that area since the HKS 2835 pro S went on the motor and always just assumed it was engine reverberation noise caused by the stainless HKS dump and Hpi stainless front pipe that went on at the same time as the turbo swap...my previous exhaust on the previous turbo was mild steel from turbo back.. I used a large screwdriver and long piece of aluminium angle as a stethoscope and located the exact location of the noise and turns out its coming directly from the internal waste gate mechanism... I'm guessing the gate poppet isn't fully seating and rattling around in there hahaha.. As seen earlier in this thread, I replaced the actuator with a bew turbosmart unit and put 21psi Springs in it and pre-loaded the f**k out of it to get it to maintain some sort of boost and get a tune happening... Now I finally think nice located the issue!! Dump is coming off hopefully this weekend and I might get to the bottom of this once and for all!!

These ever sell?

Yessir that is a small mountain of torque [emoji1377] such sticky tyres too [emoji1377][emoji1377][emoji1377]

Looks a little laggier than I expected but I bet it felt a shitload faster in the real world when under load (dyno doesn't give real world load experience)

I went and bought a hta3076 at the end of last year almost purely based on yours and Wootens info and success with it ......hahah...... [emoji57] Is your lost love only because of their shitty customer service or has there been faulty products or something else? also, you have pm.

Yeah sweet dude I would be looking at a 3586 or even an 3794 with a 3l bottom end and the awesome flowing Neo head you'll still have excellent spoil response and if you go the HTA37 you'll hit your 500wkw goal easily asn have headroom for more

If you want 500kw I would be looking at a 3586 unless you want to run high boost with a 3582.... What engine is it goin on and what fuel?

Did you wind it up man? Got a dyno for the full balls run?

Hey dude did you ever get to the bottom of it?

Ok awesome mate thanks for your reply... Also, Pmed you

Location and price on the motor?

Thank you kind sir! I am stoked to finally be a part of the GTS-R エキマニ タコ足 family [emoji16][emoji16][emoji4][emoji4] I actually know a guy in the states who is holding onto a heat shield for me while I was searching for a manifold for the past year so I may just do that...... I was actually bidding on an rb20 three weeks ago that had an r31house manifold hanging off it and the seller wasn't aware... It ended up selling for over $5k AUD before tax and shipping and other fees.... It was a nice rb20 tho with forged bottom and built head with a ogura twin plate and gtr itb's as well as the manifold and to4s turbo and dump [emoji57][emoji33] After missing out on that I thought f**k it! I'm buying an r31house Takoashi!!!!So I got onto moonlight racing who deal with r31house regularly and it turns out they don't make the manifolds anymore and aren't selling any of the spares they have either... So after procrastinating for a year and constantly just missing out on getting one I just committed to the one on yahoo...

Yeah man I had been watching the manifold for almost 10 months on yahoo hesitantly... It has been welded where an external gate had been attached and also all its heat shield mounting tabs have been shaved off... But after sending close to 100 emails and pm's to countless company's and people on facebook, Instagram, forums, Ebay and gumtree I have realised how rare these manifolds are getting regardless of the condition so I just coughed up the coin and bought it last night...