ck_chino

Installed Nismo coppermix twin competition spec last year in my bnr32 with pull trans with Oem slave cylinder. The point at where the clutch disengages/enages is right at the top of the clutch pedal, meaning I barely have to push the pedal down for the clutch to be disengaged. You guys that have the same combo are you experiencing this high pedal bite point?? Secondly I’d like to have the disengagement point lower meaning I have to push the pedal more(further not effort)for it to be disengaged. I’m thinking to use a Nismo big operating cylinder(bigger bore at 13/16 vs Oem 3/4) which will require more pedal stroke to get the equivalent movement at the clutch fork. But I see Nismo web site says not to mix these 2 as the Nismo big operating cylinder doesn’t have enough stroke to disengage??? Any folks run both the coppermix twin pull with Nismo cylinder?? Thanks in advance for the replies but prefer only guys with pull clutches to respond. thanks

Thanks all I figured the pricing was too good to be true

Hi guys has anyone ever bought from this website theskylineshed.shop?? Not theskylineshed.com as I’m aware there is 2 similar but different sites. has anyone had any issues with theskylineshed.shop???

Seems it’s for cassette deck terminal wiring as per fsm

Hello all what is the 4-pin connector in the picture which is highlighted in blue? The one beside the yellow rca connector? What is it used for?

Hey I have 94 r32gtr with pull clutch. I’m installing nismo coppermix twin. I have a question about bronze pilot bushing installed in crankshaft. How deep should it go? R32 gtr factory service manual states 13 below crankshaft/flywheel boss flange. I’m guessing 13mm??? Not sure if it makes a difference regardless of pull or push clutch so I was searching on r33 gtr engine manual and they say to bottom it out(I referenced r33 because that generation has pull clutch and r32 fsm only speaks about push clutch) not sure about bushing depth regardless of it is push or pull clutch system

As the title says, it was a devastating discovery. Has this happened to anyone else? Any fixes? I have 2 spare GT-R keys p/n key00-00185, however these are different from the r32 key. R33 “gt” stands proud of metal surface, R32 “gt” is just shy of surface of metal

Looking for r32 GT-R rear mud guard or flap

hey guys who has rebuilt one? im not talking about r34 hitachi cas but the r32/r33 version

hey guys update, so in went new coils and no joy, same symptom when hot. I opened up the cas and found a whole bunch of rust dust inside, bearing seems shot. blast of air, back on car and it seems good now. no more bucking or loss of power. no my other question is how do i rebuild a hitachi cas(r32/r33 style. not the black one on the r34)? i pulled off the cover which mounts to the cas bracket but the guts of it dont seem to want to conme off even after removing the screws. any ideas guys?

hey guys I intend to upgrade to vr38 ignition coils, however I'm stuck between the kits offered by both supertec and platinum racing. Which one would you guys prefer? I'm leaning towards the platinum kit as they offer the option to mount their coils lower which allows the valley cover to be installed with no mods ie no cutting or grinding. In addition, seems like they're the only company which offers newly designed "stalks/boots" which are customized to fit into the rb head just like oem design. Any insights? complaints or comments? Which kit would you guys go for? I was gonna get the r34 smart coils but the tech seems so old now, and I heard the fire power of the vr38 is almost double that of the r34 rb26 smart coils

update: Started again this morning no faults revved to 5-6000 no issue, ran for about 10 mins, I shut it down. Went inside to have a bite and then come back out to start it and the problem re-appears. Seems something gets heat soaked and it struggles to get to 1750 rpm from idle, then as it approaqches 1750rpm, it will clean right up and rev no problem. During the stumbling, the afr gets really lean basically offscale. If it was a vacuum leak would the engine rpm be higher? I see no decrease of vacuum on my aem boost gauge, it sits at a steady 20in/hg.

haltech plug in. has been tuned for 2 years, this is the first time it has given me trouble. single turbo maf deleted running onboard map sensor gm iat update= the car now is unable to rev past 2000rpm, just struggles to rise to 2000rpm, sounds like anti-lag(double hecked its not activated). can a failing ignition system change symptoms so erratically?

Hey Gents As the car is warmed up not only coolant temp but also oil temp, say around 80-90 degrees the car starts to have a misfire. At first its just a hiccup at idle but then progressively gets worst as I keep driving and the engine warms up more. From idle to 1500 rpm the response is terribly. It's extremely hard to take off from a light, and the whole drive line shudders as I attempt to get the car moving but as soon as 1600 rpm rolls around it goes back to absolute normal with no problems all the way WOT and mind you this only happens when the oil temps are at operating temps avg 85 degrees. Does this seem like an igniter issue? or coil pack issue. Whilst this happened, I had the car on the driveway with the engine running and I sprayed freeze spray directly onto the igniter with no change. From 1600rpm and up theres no issue, regardless of coolant and oil temp. My intent is to go r34 gtr smart coils and get the wiring specialites adapter harness and be done with it, just hope this helps. Thanks guys

100% high mount. rb26 exhaust manifold bolts are widest at the top