ck_chino

Thanks all I figured the pricing was too good to be true

Hi guys has anyone ever bought from this website theskylineshed.shop?? Not theskylineshed.com as I’m aware there is 2 similar but different sites. has anyone had any issues with theskylineshed.shop???

Seems it’s for cassette deck terminal wiring as per fsm

Hello all what is the 4-pin connector in the picture which is highlighted in blue? The one beside the yellow rca connector? What is it used for?

Hey I have 94 r32gtr with pull clutch. I’m installing nismo coppermix twin. I have a question about bronze pilot bushing installed in crankshaft. How deep should it go? R32 gtr factory service manual states 13 below crankshaft/flywheel boss flange. I’m guessing 13mm??? Not sure if it makes a difference regardless of pull or push clutch so I was searching on r33 gtr engine manual and they say to bottom it out(I referenced r33 because that generation has pull clutch and r32 fsm only speaks about push clutch) not sure about bushing depth regardless of it is push or pull clutch system

As the title says, it was a devastating discovery. Has this happened to anyone else? Any fixes? I have 2 spare GT-R keys p/n key00-00185, however these are different from the r32 key. R33 “gt” stands proud of metal surface, R32 “gt” is just shy of surface of metal

Looking for r32 GT-R rear mud guard or flap

hey guys who has rebuilt one? im not talking about r34 hitachi cas but the r32/r33 version

hey guys update, so in went new coils and no joy, same symptom when hot. I opened up the cas and found a whole bunch of rust dust inside, bearing seems shot. blast of air, back on car and it seems good now. no more bucking or loss of power. no my other question is how do i rebuild a hitachi cas(r32/r33 style. not the black one on the r34)? i pulled off the cover which mounts to the cas bracket but the guts of it dont seem to want to conme off even after removing the screws. any ideas guys?

hey guys I intend to upgrade to vr38 ignition coils, however I'm stuck between the kits offered by both supertec and platinum racing. Which one would you guys prefer? I'm leaning towards the platinum kit as they offer the option to mount their coils lower which allows the valley cover to be installed with no mods ie no cutting or grinding. In addition, seems like they're the only company which offers newly designed "stalks/boots" which are customized to fit into the rb head just like oem design. Any insights? complaints or comments? Which kit would you guys go for? I was gonna get the r34 smart coils but the tech seems so old now, and I heard the fire power of the vr38 is almost double that of the r34 rb26 smart coils

update: Started again this morning no faults revved to 5-6000 no issue, ran for about 10 mins, I shut it down. Went inside to have a bite and then come back out to start it and the problem re-appears. Seems something gets heat soaked and it struggles to get to 1750 rpm from idle, then as it approaqches 1750rpm, it will clean right up and rev no problem. During the stumbling, the afr gets really lean basically offscale. If it was a vacuum leak would the engine rpm be higher? I see no decrease of vacuum on my aem boost gauge, it sits at a steady 20in/hg.

haltech plug in. has been tuned for 2 years, this is the first time it has given me trouble. single turbo maf deleted running onboard map sensor gm iat update= the car now is unable to rev past 2000rpm, just struggles to rise to 2000rpm, sounds like anti-lag(double hecked its not activated). can a failing ignition system change symptoms so erratically?

Hey Gents As the car is warmed up not only coolant temp but also oil temp, say around 80-90 degrees the car starts to have a misfire. At first its just a hiccup at idle but then progressively gets worst as I keep driving and the engine warms up more. From idle to 1500 rpm the response is terribly. It's extremely hard to take off from a light, and the whole drive line shudders as I attempt to get the car moving but as soon as 1600 rpm rolls around it goes back to absolute normal with no problems all the way WOT and mind you this only happens when the oil temps are at operating temps avg 85 degrees. Does this seem like an igniter issue? or coil pack issue. Whilst this happened, I had the car on the driveway with the engine running and I sprayed freeze spray directly onto the igniter with no change. From 1600rpm and up theres no issue, regardless of coolant and oil temp. My intent is to go r34 gtr smart coils and get the wiring specialites adapter harness and be done with it, just hope this helps. Thanks guys

100% high mount. rb26 exhaust manifold bolts are widest at the top

@GHO5T so did u use all the whiteline products? Do you have a bnr32? Did you have an issue with height difference with the whiteline subframe bushes? Not sure if burning or press. I would prefer to press. Did you do the rear lower ctrl arm bushings?

hey guy i have a 94 bnr32. looking to rebush rear lower ctrl arms, rear upper ctrl arms, rear knuckle bushes and finally the subframe bushes, rear lower shock bushes with whiteline products. has anyone fitted these? any issues? sorry to ask guys but i just would hate to order the wrong ones or ill filtting units. i hear of some horror stories from the z32 fairlady guys where some of these bushings didnt fit due wrong outside diameters.

hey has anyone fitted these? will the extra 10mm spacing on top of the bushing move the subframe away from the body more so than oem spec? im asking because i keep getting conflicting info on the whiteline bushings saying either w92446 or w92447 for the bnr32. btw mine is a 94 model im just wondering why the whiteline websites go only upto max 92 or 93 for the bnr32?

hey guys finally broke out the micrometer and crawled under the car. mine was indeed 45.5mm between flanges for ctrl arm mount. has anyone ever had 50mm on their bnr32?

hey guys Who has replaced the rear lower inner ctrl arm bushings? im on the whiteline site and they are asking whether i have a 50mm or 45mm crush tube length. how would i know short of taking it off and measuring? Any recommendations ? have you guys used any other brands?

hey gents I pulled my fuel pump outta my r32 gtr and I noticed that the oem pump does not have a check valve on the outlet of the pump as most pictures on google have. theres a diagphrag looking unit on the body of the pump. Is there any reason mine would be missing? is it a check valve for sure? it seems the oem bnr32 pump has 2 diaphragm looking objects on the pump on on the body of the pump and one on the outlet attached with a couple inches of hose on the way upto the sender body and out to the front of the car towards the fuel rail. what are the 2 diaphragm looking units and most especially is the one on the outlet very important? mind you my car has been running for years with no issues, no problems with hards starting what so ever. seems the pump has been removed in japan before ( I can tell because the level sender retaining ring has damage on it). could it of been upgraded before and maybe the guy returned it back to stock and forgot this check valve maybe?

hey gents whiteline list 2 diff p/n for the rear lower inner control arm bushing for the bnr32. W62012 with Crush tube length - 50mm and W62925 with Crush tube length - 45mm which one is the proper one? i wasnt aware that nissan made 2 diff sizes. and also are they the same as the z32 thanx gents

though it may be a new cap from nissan. whos to say that it isnt defective from factory? a worn rad neck seat where the cap seal interfaces with rad could be worn out - which would mean a new rad but for what its worth try a new cap before the rad itself.

no tune since conversion just completed installed a couple weeks back ecu is factory oem hitachi unit. Just dont understand as to why my temporary plastic unit worked fine and this greddy unit is giving me problems.

yes man all triple checked. only 3 couplers 2 on the mafs and 1 for the turbo inlet itself all checked with no leaks etc.

hey as the title says, as I anm coming to a stop and press the clutch in or rev the engine and as it idles down it wants to stall. for the record I have recirculating oem bovs. the car is stock, the engine is stock. just put on this greddy single turbo kit and it starts to stall. I question the maf because prior me getting the greddy y pipe inlet, I had made a temporary dual maf adaptor out of plastic and the car ran fine with no stall etc. however as soon as I put the greddy unit on I started seeing such symptoms. swapped the temporary plastic one I made and no problems. I can only guess the recirc portion of the pipe is at a bad angle on the greddy unit. but has anyone else had this issue? My turbo inlet is 3" and I used a 3" to 4" silicone coupler, would that step make an issue for maf reversion? thanks guys