ck_chino

hey as the title says, as I anm coming to a stop and press the clutch in or rev the engine and as it idles down it wants to stall. for the record I have recirculating oem bovs. the car is stock, the engine is stock. just put on this greddy single turbo kit and it starts to stall. I question the maf because prior me getting the greddy y pipe inlet, I had made a temporary dual maf adaptor out of plastic and the car ran fine with no stall etc. however as soon as I put the greddy unit on I started seeing such symptoms. swapped the temporary plastic one I made and no problems. I can only guess the recirc portion of the pipe is at a bad angle on the greddy unit. but has anyone else had this issue? My turbo inlet is 3" and I used a 3" to 4" silicone coupler, would that step make an issue for maf reversion? thanks guys

nobody has any pics?

Thanks for the replies guys. Does anyone have any pics of the kit? Installed and or parts of

hey guys any one here know if the hks twin top mount kit with Cast manifold and the td05 -16g will require removal of a/c compressor and abs unit to clear rear turbo? this is for an rb26 equipped r32 gtr

i have a 94 gtr non v spec, non brembo. my car has the sumitomo's and they are 296mm. find a different shop, they dont seem to be well versed in the nissan skyline

it is definitely ur ac clutch electromagnet which engages the pump that is drawing too high of a resistance. ohms's law states that I= v/r, so if u plugged in ur numbers u r exceeding the current rating of the fuse. i had the same exact situation, and i found a right up up on here to change the coil behind the ac clutch not a fun job but yea it can be done in the vehicle. have fun and good luck

yes If it is launched hard it does and only when i back off the gas does the torque needle drop and then the vibes stop.

not really into doing burnouts, but i notice mainly coming out of a corner (hiway on ramp) the inboard wheels start to squeal. but does the lsd action suppose to wear out over time?

hey guys i notice now lately when i enter onto the hiway and i put the gas all the way down i can hear a lil bit of tire chirp wheelspin) on the inside wheels while rounding the bend of the ramp onto the hiway. is is possible that the lsd is on its way out? would changing the diff fluids front and back help the situation? how bout the rear diff? do you guys think that after a while that the lsd action is dying due to the fluid not being changed in a while? can i possibly restore the action by doing the diff fluid flush and adding the lsd additive to the rear? ps didnt really notice the wheelspin before

hey guys i get a serious vibe from underneath a car when the attessa is engaged. this only happens from accel from the lights just say i hit a lil bump ie crossing the intersection. i will see the torque gauge shoot upto 50% and i feel like the car is shaking in the front and it only stops when i release the gas and the car is unloaded and then will it only drop back down to zero and stop the vibrations. what u guys think? pls and thanks

hey guys i just posted something very simliar. do u guys only get this during breaking? cause i get this sensation hear/feel pass side hump on the floor during breaking and acceleration. and for me it happens while in gear or out of gear

hey guys so when i first accel from a stop at very low speeds i can hear a groaning noise and my passenger can actual feel something at their feet by the hump on the floor. in addition this sensation and noise can be heard and felt during braking regardless of in gear or not. its a 94 bnr32 btw. fyi i hard thecar up on a lift and sprayed lube at the tension rod joint, sway bar mounts and bushes, the kingpin(bearing) on the left hand side of the car tranny mount and crossmember. had it sprayed for a week and still the noise was there. till one day there was some spirited driving with some hard braking the noise was gone. in my mind i thought that whatever was worn or dry had gotten lubed up from me doing the hard braking. maybe the g forces managed to force the lube where no lube has gone b4 lol. but neways the noise returns after 4 weeks or so. ps nothing feels loose had the front wheels off and shook the whole bitch up to find everything tight any help guys im stumped? has anyone ever felt this noise or sensation? mods if this is in the wrong section pls move and my apologies

yes it can be done i have done both the frt and rears of mine no problems

hey thanks for the reply however i believe my manufacturing date is in 93 so im not sure if i made it for the cut off and who knows if the engine has been swaped or not but just saying u have to exprect the worst but can anyone provide me with an exact measurement? ie give me the width of "a" or "b" which is in url of the first post??????????????? how wide is the part of the crank which rides on the seal? not the flats of the oil drive

doing my t belt and just pulled off seal for cams and crankshaft. just want to confirm if i have either the old or new style crankshaft, can barely see the oil drive(flats which engage the oil gear) the flats DO NOT extend beyond the oil gear, they are below the surface of the gear approx 3mm or 1/8 of an inch. however i have determined the width of the portion which contacts the seal is about 12 mm wide. i am not talking about the flats but the part of the crank which rides against the seal. obviosuly the smaller the width of the portion that rides on the seal the better because it yields a wider width for the flats which contact the oil gear. so my question is on the attached url there is a a diagram of the new and old style cranks shafts. distance "a" is representing the new and "b" is the old one. i am hoping i have "a" crankshaft so can anyone pls kindly confirm that the dimension of width is is about 12mm or 13mm?????crank pics