RedDragonAus

Edited. Trader ad.

R35s look fantastic with 18s and fat rubber. And its easy (and cheeper) to get the slicks from porsche cup cars too. There was a R35 at QR with Nismo LMGT4s in 18s a while ago, not sure of the width or offset.

Awesome service and about 1/2 the price of most tires here. But they can't ship Yokohama to Australia anymore. Looks like the local Yoko guys kicked up a stink but there are freight forwarding companies in the US that will receive them then post them on to you here Got to love free markets

Ian are you doing the Time Attack series with Paul? I was at the last QR event but missed the last Lakeside day. If you are looking at Tein have you looked at getting a used set of Ohlins for the same money or have you looked at Racing Logic? on their web site Racing Logic do custom coilovers as well with custom valving and spring rates for about $2500. Im not sure what the custom shock dyno graph is but I havent seen on from tein

Try 36 psi hot (after 3-5 laps) all around and go up or down 2psi from there until you get the grip and balance you are after. more air will give you stiffer ride but less grip as the tire gets round across the tread section. less air gives a softer side but more grip until it cups across the tread section. Confusing I know but what you are after is even tire temp across the width of the tire. That means all the working to maximum grip efficiency. Here is a little tip, If your getting understeer drop the pressure in the front a bit, if your getting oversteer, drop the rears. You will be amazed at the difference 2-4psi makes in the handling of the car This is my Evo when we won fastest time at Lakeside during the 2010 Evo Nats

Stay away from cross drilled rotors!! the holes dont let the rotor cool evenly and are often the starting place for cracks. Get some slotted DBA 4000s. I have not used qfm pads but you should try a few different types, see what works for you. If you cant get a second set of wheels and tires then just get a new lite set of wheels like TE37s or if on a budget Enkei RPF1s and a set of semi semi slicks like Advan Neova AD08 or Bridgestone RE11. To save money check tirerack.com as they are often 1/2 the price including delivery of what you will get here. Be sure to get a good tire gauge and check your pressures after each session. DON'T TELL HER ANYTHING!!! It is better to beg for forgiveness than to ask for permission.

What fluid are you using? Nothing could be worse than doing 3 laps and have the pedal go to the floor because you boiled the brakes. Even new fluid will boil after a few laps so make sure to use a race fluid like those suggested (Motul RBF 600, Castrol SRF) and try to use the same pads all around putting a race pad in the front and a street in the rears will make the fronts do even more of the work and can cause them to overheat early. Of course your tires were awesome at the track, it was your first day. Now that you have a benchmark, a set of cheap used semi slicks will really blow your mind. The limiting factor in breaking is usually the tires. Put the best and biggest brakes on a car with shit tires and it wont stop. Remmeber your contact patch between your car and the road is only a few square centimeters so the better grip on that patch, the more stopping power your brakes will have. The best way to go faster is driver training. Spend a few laps following the experienced drivers, try to get in for a passenger lap and do a training day. You would be amazed how much faster you will go wen you learn to keep the car settled and balanced. In my time attack Evo 7RS we focused on getting the brakes as efficent as possible while retaining the stock brembos. We reduced as much weight from the car as possible, less mass to stop. Reduced rotational mass (lighter wheels, 2 piece rotors, allow wheel nuts) to put less rotational strain on the brakes. cooling ducts to the front bar to help drop the temps as fast as possible. To top it off I used Michelin slicks for absolute grip (and lighter than road tires). Now that the swaybars are done you will start to consume some parts and I would look at mods over time in this order: 1. inspection and bushings, replace any worn or broken bushings get under it and look for wear. check brake lines ect. You don't want a sloppy car at 200km/h 2. RBF 600 fluid (costs less than Castrol SRF) 3.track tires and wheels (so you dont tear up your road tires) 4.alignment (get the most out of your contact patch) 5.better brake pads all around (Im a fan of Ferodo DS2500s for a street/track car, 3000s for track only) 6.new rotors, the track pads and temps will eat or crack the stock rotors after a few days 7. Coilovers (Racing Logic, Tein, Ohlin or others with a motorsport background) 8. chassis bracing (keeps it aligned under cornering load) Good to see some new guys getting out to the track and using their cars for what the designers intended.

Sold

Still for sale. No more low ball offers please. These are brand new, still in the box.

PM sent

Price drop to $1299

I still have them and can ship to most cities for about $45. I want them out of the shed!

I have a set of Racing Logic Ultra Complex 32 step adjustment dampening coilovers for a R33 or R34 with rear barckets to suit both GTS-T and GTR. I sold my project time attack car befor these were installed and I want them gone. Springs are 10kg front and 7kg rear. http://www.racing-logic.com/product-1.htm I paid $1750 for these a few months ago They are yours for $1399 Im located on the Gold Coast but I can ship them. 0416183995

Ken Block's Gymkhana 3 Part 2 (The video) launching - Tuesday 14.9.2010, 9 AM (PST) / Wednesday AM (Australia) Check it out at : http://www.dcshoes.com/gym3/ or http://www.facebook.com/DC.Shoes

I have a set of new Racing logic coilovers for sale. I bought them for a car which I didnt end up getting. Paid $1800 2 weeks ago, Now you can have them for $1550 delivered. My loss is your gain. They have 9kg front and 7kg rear spring rates. Located on the Gold Coast but can ship australia wide. Pics later today. www.racing-logic.com

None of the banks are coming to the term I can get for an australian deliverd car which I need for work. Looks like the 350Gt is not going to happen for me I had a look at 3 350Zs today that were in the same price range. All were clapped out with bad paint and very worn interiors so Im going to look at a few subies now. I have a set of coilovers for it already too, anyone want a deal?

Anyone else think they make the car look like a subaru liberty (03-06 style wheels)?

The car is a buisness expense and the intrest and the depreciation is a tax deduction. I will make more than 10% (not that my intrest rate is that high) on the money NOT tied up in my car. I just couldn't belive that Esanda wont cover imports anymore. I have had 4 cars with them and this was to be the 5th as well as the buisness is looking to change banks. Doesnt look like Im staying with ANZ.

Location? I could be keen on the bars.

I have to do it as CHP for work, otherwise I would just get it from my home loan. Westpack may be coming to the party.

My rant, I found and did the deal for a V35, all the paper work for the credit app done. Jumping through hoops for what was to be a replacment loan for a evo I just sold. Then I get a call from my broker (after 2 weeks of paperwork) saying 'Sorry, Esanda dosent finance imports now, We thought it was a 350Z'. So they did a check of a few other companies for me and every one has either stopped dealing with imports or has made it very hard to finance (30% down ect). Is this something that the australian auto industrie is pushing on finance comapnies?

They are backordered and will be in the country in 10-14 days.

Go for the whiteline. I have had their parts in several cars (WRX, EVO, Liberty) and never any problems. part number is W52991

I just had the RACQ report on a 350GT that Im looking at come back with split inside lower controll arm bushes as well. Any ideas on cost to repair? I want to try to get a few more dollars of the cars price. Just got a quote from a workshop on the Gold Coast: $55 for the bushings, 2-3 hours work for both sides.

Sorry to dig up an old thread but now that there are more V35s getting around this would be a good idea. section for 'buying a v35 tips', engine, suspension/wheels/brakes, exterior, interior would be good too. I have noticed that there are many many threads all asking the same thing. a bit of organization would clean this up and make it faster to find and post info.