realor

Selling a 3" X-Force high flow cat to suit a R34 GTT, it's brand new never been fitted. Bought this then realised my car had a good enough unit already. comes with 4 bolts and nuts and 1 gasket selling for 150ono, pickup in bris or can post at buyers expense.

I replaced mine recently with a universal one from EL Falcon. Originally tried to solder wires but it's f**king impossible! It comes with a joiner though so i used that instead. It's working pretty well, fuel economy is better (not sure by how much yet) but yeah see how long it lasts. PS. Use anti-sieze on all exhaust bolts makes your like much easier getting them off later, thankfully whoever worked on my car did use it and it was piece of cake to get the old one out.

coil packs I'll bet that it's going to happen more & more until they're on all the time

bump

R34 Stock SMIC for sale in very good condition, little to no fin damage. Can post pics but everyone knows what they look like. Pickup is preferred in bris but will post at buyers expense. $170 or open to offers or will trade for dump, front pipe or pod filter shield suiting R34 gtt coupe

I had a similar problem with my R34 GTT running F-con v-pro but the stock ecu was cutting out (violent power loss and jerk forward) at just under 1 bar. The boost controller shows around 90kPa peak pressure before it starts cutting out. What I ended up doing was setting it so it wouldn't go above 90kPa, seems good now that I think about it to avoid damaging the motor. This is with an HKS EBC though, not sure how SBC works. If you wanna run pressure higher than this than a fuel cut defender would do the trick with stock ecu or upgrade to a aftermarker computer. I wouldn't recommend going much above 1 bar with stock turbo though. PS why is this this in 'Other Nissan Imports' section?

coilpacks do a search lots of trouble with the stock coilpacks on 34 GTT's ... myself included and those lights usually mean an ignition fault which is usually coilpacks. Don't muck around and just get some splitfires

on the scanners, it's legal to have one that picks up analogue police but there's not that much that goes on there cos the good stuff is all digital. I've got one in my ute and u hear some things like licence checks and general operations shit but the chances of hearing where speed traps/cops are operating is pretty low.

Yeah well if slide didn't f**k people around so much this thread wouldn't be here

I too had a problem with slide being really slow...

I'll take em for 300... can pickup this weekend

my car was doing this for a while, I found out when that combination of lights is on the error is most likely "primary ignition fault". My problem turned out to be coil packs, bought some split fires and changed the plugs and it went away.

yes, yes it is

^^^ what he said. Will take offers on this stuff also, need to sell it.

R34 SMIC - excellent condition, came off 34 done about 70k. Great upgrade for the R33 stock cooler. $200 Blitz Power Meter SJ - this thing can do 1/4 times, lap times, measure acceleration and show power output based on the weight of the car you enter. It came with my car, have never used it but it powers up and works fine as far as I can tell without hooking up to the ecu. $80 HKS SSQV - works fine good condition $100 pickup available in brisbane south side OR will post at your expense

ah ok, i didnt see that mentioned anywhere. hopefully they realise there's duplicate threads

I posted a thread in the DIY section but it doesn't show up in the list and I can't view it when I click the link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...Fm-t288799.html it says for me I posted the thread twice cos I didn't think it worked the first time so gotta delete one of them. The only think I can think of to cause it was I did use tags nested inside tags like this: [url="http://users.on.net/%7Ezorf/Intercooler/IMGP1525.JPG"][img=http://users.on.net/~zorf/Intercooler/resized/IMGP1525.jpg][/url]

After searching on here for threads about installing a FMIC and finding mixed results I decided to buy a kit and give it a crack for myself. The kit I bought was a Blitz CS return flow type cooler which came with everything I needed - cooler, pipes, clamps, brackets and bolts. Anyway so here we go Remove the bumper, there is already a guide for which which I followed and worked great so no point explaining this Remove/undo the brackets of the air filter or remove the airbox, just do enough to get to the clamps on the cooler piping Remove the SMIC by undoing the 4 large bolts and 2 smaller ones on the vertical bracket If you're as unlucky as I was you'll discover at some point your car has blown a turbo and the remanents of it are inside the intercooler Remove the vertical bracket that was holding the stock cooler on Remove the top reo cross bar and undo the bolts securing the side reo to the main bar and remove the side reo bits under the headlights Remove the main reo - there is a bolt and a nut on each side, its only necessary to fully undo the front bolt because the rear one is a slide type so just loosen it enough. Fit the cooler using the brackets given in the kit At this point I had removed the horns as well, but later I was able to fit the back in behind the cooler U can see on this side there are a couple of hoses putting pressure on the cooler, I didn't worry about this and just left it. I got the cooler in the position I wanted and then did a test fit of the reo (first of many!), I found that I needed to get it UP as far as possible on the brackets or the bottom pipe of the cooler would be too low to get the plastic underbody shit to line up with the bumper. Cut the reo! I had to bash out the mounting brackets for the top reo bar as well, basically just removed the lip from it so the tops of the cooler tanks would slide in right underneath. I ended up cutting from the middle crossbar straight across to the edges. U can see here how a section is cut out (action shot!) actually had to take out a bit more than this but you get the idea. Just cut a bit and do a test fit and repeat about 100 times until it's just right. Then smooth it out and hit with a bit of black spray paint. And done! the reo now fits back on! Next is cutting the bumper, quite alot needed to come off here, this is it before and this is it after on the left here the whole shroud was removed so the pipe would go on, being careful not to mess up the mounting for the driving light. The middle bit basically got munted right back so that it sat flush against the cooler If you've done it correctly some parts previously on your car are now on the garage floor And done! At first I was a bit hesitant to do this to my car because of the cutting involved, but overall I'm very happy with the result, the cuts in the reo are only really visible if the bumper is removed and even then you gotta know what you're looking for. Although anyone who is looking for cut reo WILL be able to tell no matter how good the job is. I'd definately recommend this kit, the parts are good quality and no messing around getting it fit, the brackets were spot on and it makes good use of the available space to fit a decent size core in there. It took about a day and a half to do ... gotta say though I'm pretty happy with the result

So I was installing my FMIC tonight, all was going fine I was up to the point of removing the stock SMIC which also went fine until I pulled it out and it got tipped sideways. A whole lot of black, plastic type shit fell out!! The stuff is kind of like a very hard plastic, almost ceramic (it might be?) kind of like the white stuff you find on a spark plug. Anyway I have no idea what this is, it was on the hot side of the cooler, the only thing I can think of is a blown compressor wheel, or some junk got sucked in the turbo and blew the wheel to pieces. I don't know the history of the car, but the turbo is not stock (hks 2535). Does anyone have any idea WTF this stuff is?

I can confirm that the HKS N/FT-1 harness works with the apexi auto timer in an R34 GTT. I had to cut a bit of plastic off the harness and also a little bit off the car ignition barrel plug, not a big deal, can only notice if someone pulls it apart and even then its not much.

33SLY white R33 and grey 33 both at 2nd level garden city coles carpark this arvo

the cover with the red writing is the earlier model and afaik it uses a nylon compressor wheel whereas the later ones had metal. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1527454

i am wondering the same thing, what I have found so far is that HKS harness is compatible with apexi timers but I haven't been able to find whether R33 harness can be used on R34 GTT. Anyone know?

I actually have called him last week and he recommended superspark coilpacks although I have heard mixed things about them, another place I called said they stopped getting them because too many were getting returned and they went back to selling splitfire. Supersparks are still up around $500 so if I'm spending that much I may as well just get the splitfires and be reasonably sure they're going to last. Autobarn are stocking splitfires now as well, the price tag was around $1000 so just as I was about to laugh and walk out the guy said he could do them for $750 which is OK for autobarn I guess.

I need a set of coil packs urgently, is there any where is bris that will stock split fires for a 34 GTT on the shelf I can just go in and buy or is it limited to online? really keen to get some this weekend so I can drive my car