cainer33

Hi everyone, I've just moved here, I'm in need of a workshop to diagnose where I have this squeal coming from under boost (3/4 throttle). I spose its one of those things that could be found very quickly on a dyno, has anyone got a recommendation on a decent shop that won't charge the earth for what is more then likely a simple task with the right tools. I live in the city if thats anything to go by, anywhere close to there/airport area. Thanks

Just got a job transfer with my employer, I'm moving from sunny QLD to WA and I wondering what would be a decent area to perch myself for a while whilst I get a feel for the place. I had my eye on innaloo, victoria park or bayswater, needs to be somewhere near a train line or a decent public transport line (for my missus not me) and not too far from the airport (night shifts, not fun driving too far after them) What do you guys reckon about those areas, I really have no idea which is a good or dodgy part of town over there, but more then $450/week rent is a bit much

go check out the DIY subforum, theres a tutorial on cleaning the AAC (Auxiliary Air Control Valve). It seems to be the number 1 cause of this and it was for me too.

AFM malfunction has sent the ECU into limp mode ????? maybe

So there are relatively cheap 2530s going for sale, they have the diamond shaped inlet indicative of being off an SR engine. Are they a big deal to fit to an rb20det setup or is the gear readily available to make it all fit ?

i wish i could but its from an auction site and thats the best pic they have. just wondering if the RB20 has that style compressor normally, the dual blades like you see on the HKS style turbos

(sorry if this ends up being a double post) look familiar to anyone ? supposedly its off an RB20

simple troubleshooting principles apply here -swap the coil pack from another cylinder, if it still misfired on 5th its not the coil pack, its what is driving the coil pack. You might find there is a broken wire in the loom. the o2 sensor won't cause a car to miss on a cylinder. an o2 sensor will cause poor fuel economy, most skylines would have stuffed o2 sensors anyway, the people who drive skylines these days aren't exactly rolling in the money and won't spend it unless they have to. as i found out after i bought my one.

I'd suggest a head / head gasket. A leak between the cylinder and a water jacket letting combustion gasses into the water system. Probably not what you wanted to hear though. It is a closed system, there shouldn't be any air in there at all. You could try the bleeding procedure to make sure there isn't any air in there and if it comes back again, you need to think why.

Hi all, just troubleshooting, I thought it was just in my head, but its been confirmed by someone else who is borrowing my toy. Sometimes the car runs perfect, smooth, puts the power out as it should etc Other times its erratic, it feels like boost isn't coming on at all, then it does even though the gauge is reading what it should. I suspect a dodgy AFM "may" be causing the problem. Or could it be that the ECU is sensing a knock and retarding the timing to save the engine ? Its a pretty standard R32, just has FMIC and cat back. anyone have any ideas or similar experiences ?

Did I not read somewhere else (correct me if i'm wrong) that if the knock sensor detects detonation, it retards the engine quite a bit. Maybe.. just maybe, your a/f ratio is leaning out at 4000rpm and the ECU is retarding the ignition to save the engine, hence the loss of power and flat spot. Having said that, my GTST had that issue when the plug gaps were at 1.1mm and 4 of 6 new coil packs fitted. When i fitted the last 2 packs and regapped to 0.8mm it went away.

Hi I'm after all the gear required to bolt the RB25 turbo onto my RB20 Cheers (In good working condition only please.)

white smoke = oil black smoke = fuel white smoke probably means you've got a dodgy oil seal somewhere in the engine, either piston rings, or turbo.

So yeah, I have put some JJR's on and they fixed my misfire under boost, car runs great now. But I have a rough idle, sometimes when I stop im doing 800rpm other times its 1100rpm. I have cleaned out the AAC valve and the idle no longer hunts but I did notice something on my apexi turbo timer. When the car was cold and I had it selected to O2, it was slowly counting down the voltage as the car warmed up, the idle reduced accordingly. When I took it for a drive it stayed locked on 4.99volts, it didn't change at all even when I stopped. So I am wondering, would an O2 sensor thats probably on its last legs and working intermittantly (which is what I think is happening) cause an idle that goes from normal range, but burbly, to 1100rpm and random times. The idle isn't perfect either, bit of a burble here and there, up the rev range though, no problems at all.

got some JJR's last week, fixed up the misfire perfectly

this is my 10th post i think so -> PM

I have an r32, it had a bad misfire at 1.1mm gapped plugs (which i put it after i bought it, a mini service) the ones I pulled out were 0.8mm and the misfire was still there but not as apparent. With 1.1mm it misfired from as soon as the PSI started going positive. Anyway, $400 later and some JJR coilpacks are in and its smooth as silk. Don't bother with half assed fixes, just bite the bullet and pay the money, its well worth it.

i havent got 10 posts so i can't reply to PM's yet, few more to go

wow, thanks for that i just learnt something. so i'm 1/2 legal, just need to sort out the rears which are bald anyway.

Hi all. I have some 18" wheels on my R32, currently they have 245/40s on the back and 235/40s on the front. I want to swap for 16" or 17" wheels, mainly for legality purposes (im being honest at least) and just to draw a bit less attention overall. the 235's both have brand new rubber on them, literally 1 week old, the 245s, 1 is about 5% left the other , to my untrained eye around 50%. Heres some pics, varying degrees of gutter rash, but not too bad really overall... anyone interested let me know, preferably after wheels with more then 75% rubber on all, no bald tyres please. <-- this is the worst of the gutter rash

So my R32 has 18" wheels and the tyres are 40 profile The R32 came with 205/55 R16 The rules as per QLD at least state "The rim diameter may be varied from the standard size but the overall diameter of the tyre must not vary by more than +15mm or -26mm." so if I have 245x40 R18 18 x 2.54 = 45.72 + 4cm = 49.72cm and stock 16 x 2.54 = 40.64 + 5.5cm = 46.14cm 49.72 - 46.14 = 3.58cm or 35.8mm am I doing something wrong or is my car currently not legal?

yeah mate its got a pod filter on it.

only during gear change, i only drove it about 50 metres before i went back and replaced the mother can mod. not so much of a hiss more of a roar, definately not like it was supposed to sounds like, the factory quiet standard

maybe the gasket has broken down because it wasn't a normal air noise, it was a very loud hiss. the stock BOV is just a very simple unit isn't it ? its just plumbing back into the plenum, theres nothing else I need to be looking at besides a new gasket ?

Hi all I just bought an R32 gtst. The BOV is stock and it makes a flutter noise when I change gears. Today I was taking the plumbing off to get access for the coil packs and noticed that when I took off the stock BOV connection to the intake plenum (<> shaped with 2 bolts holding it together), the gasket was there, but the shonky guys who owned it before me had made a plate from a 'Mother' drink can to close off the pipe, essentially blocking the plumb back. When I took it for a drive after I removed their dodgy 'fix', when it was under boost and gears were changed it made a really bad hissing noise, something was definately wrong. Anyone know of the problem and how to fix it. I have put the 'Mother' can mod back in place because the car was undrivable otherwise, was not handling boost at all.