cainer33
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Posts posted by cainer33
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Just got a job transfer with my employer, I'm moving from sunny QLD to WA and I wondering what would be a decent area to perch myself for a while whilst I get a feel for the place.
I had my eye on innaloo, victoria park or bayswater, needs to be somewhere near a train line or a decent public transport line (for my missus not me) and not too far from the airport (night shifts, not fun driving too far after them)
What do you guys reckon about those areas, I really have no idea which is a good or dodgy part of town over there, but more then $450/week rent is a bit much
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Hey guys i've had this problem for a while but havnt been too worried about it.
When the car is idling it might idle nice for about 10s or so then starts idling up and down, usually between 1k and 1.5k. I just got the car tuned last week and it seemed fine for a while but i've had this issue before the new rb25 went in.
I dont think its a problem w/ the tune and i read somewhere it could be the thermo sensor?
Does anyone know whats causing this? Or if someone knows and wants a quick cashy i have some $50 westfield / karrinyup shopping vouchers =D
Any help is appriciated
go check out the DIY subforum, theres a tutorial on cleaning the AAC (Auxiliary Air Control Valve). It seems to be the number 1 cause of this and it was for me too.
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AFM malfunction has sent the ECU into limp mode ????? maybe
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So there are relatively cheap 2530s going for sale, they have the diamond shaped inlet indicative of being off an SR engine.
Are they a big deal to fit to an rb20det setup or is the gear readily available to make it all fit ?
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Can you back the camera off a bit and take another shot .
A .
i wish i could but its from an auction site and thats the best pic they have.
just wondering if the RB20 has that style compressor normally, the dual blades like you see on the HKS style turbos
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(sorry if this ends up being a double post)
look familiar to anyone ? supposedly its off an RB20
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Either cylinder 5 injector or coil pack harness/loom.
simple troubleshooting principles apply here
-swap the coil pack from another cylinder, if it still misfired on 5th its not the coil pack, its what is driving the coil pack. You might find there is a broken wire in the loom.
the o2 sensor won't cause a car to miss on a cylinder. an o2 sensor will cause poor fuel economy, most skylines would have stuffed o2 sensors anyway, the people who drive skylines these days aren't exactly rolling in the money and won't spend it unless they have to. as i found out after i bought my one.
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I have 97 r33 series II that is overflowing coolant out the overflow bottle...
Drove home from work turned car off and noticed gurgling coming from engine... water was down a little but not excessively (don't know when the last time I checked it was)... just filled it up and left it...
Then after giving it a bit the next day noticed gurgling again and sizzling (temp guage reading normal inside the car) stopped car and water started overflowing from overflow bottle...
So we replaced the radiator cap (to no avail) then the thermostat (again made no difference) took it to a radiator guy who tested the radiator and head and told me there was nothing wrong with it...
Have read on other posts that these radiators get blocked and it could just need flushing? Just not real sure on where to go from here. Whether we should just start replacing the bigger things ie. radiator, fan clutch, water pump until it's fixed or has someone had this problem before and knows what it is???
It seems now the temp guage is now going up slightly when driving hard but usually no problems when just driving normal (like you can just drive a skyline sedately!)
I'd suggest a head / head gasket. A leak between the cylinder and a water jacket letting combustion gasses into the water system. Probably not what you wanted to hear though. It is a closed system, there shouldn't be any air in there at all.
You could try the bleeding procedure to make sure there isn't any air in there and if it comes back again, you need to think why.
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Hi all, just troubleshooting, I thought it was just in my head, but its been confirmed by someone else who is borrowing my toy.
Sometimes the car runs perfect, smooth, puts the power out as it should etc
Other times its erratic, it feels like boost isn't coming on at all, then it does even though the gauge is reading what it should.
I suspect a dodgy AFM "may" be causing the problem.
Or could it be that the ECU is sensing a knock and retarding the timing to save the engine ?
Its a pretty standard R32, just has FMIC and cat back.
anyone have any ideas or similar experiences ?
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Did I not read somewhere else (correct me if i'm wrong) that if the knock sensor detects detonation, it retards the engine quite a bit.
Maybe.. just maybe, your a/f ratio is leaning out at 4000rpm and the ECU is retarding the ignition to save the engine, hence the loss of power and flat spot.
Having said that, my GTST had that issue when the plug gaps were at 1.1mm and 4 of 6 new coil packs fitted. When i fitted the last 2 packs and regapped to 0.8mm it went away.
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Hi I'm after all the gear required to bolt the RB25 turbo onto my RB20
Cheers
(In good working condition only please.)
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i seem to be geting this problem aswell, although my s1 r33 seems to spitt out white moke after backing off aswell. havent changed anything yet, coils,plugs probly, could a buggerd turbo be causing all the white smoke??
white smoke = oil
black smoke = fuel
white smoke probably means you've got a dodgy oil seal somewhere in the engine, either piston rings, or turbo.
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So yeah, I have put some JJR's on and they fixed my misfire under boost, car runs great now.
But I have a rough idle, sometimes when I stop im doing 800rpm other times its 1100rpm.
I have cleaned out the AAC valve and the idle no longer hunts but I did notice something on my apexi turbo timer.
When the car was cold and I had it selected to O2, it was slowly counting down the voltage as the car warmed up, the idle reduced accordingly.
When I took it for a drive it stayed locked on 4.99volts, it didn't change at all even when I stopped.
So I am wondering, would an O2 sensor thats probably on its last legs and working intermittantly (which is what I think is happening) cause an idle that goes from normal range, but burbly, to 1100rpm and random times.
The idle isn't perfect either, bit of a burble here and there, up the rev range though, no problems at all.
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got some JJR's last week, fixed up the misfire perfectly
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Mate,
i hate stock R32 16inch rims with $300 Pirelli 225 tyres on them with around 90% tread. PM me if you're interested for a swap. We could talk and set up a deal of some sort.
if u cant PM. Then contact me on 0403 513 474
this is my 10th post i think so -> PM
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I have an r32, it had a bad misfire at 1.1mm gapped plugs (which i put it after i bought it, a mini service) the ones I pulled out were 0.8mm and the misfire was still there but not as apparent. With 1.1mm it misfired from as soon as the PSI started going positive.
Anyway, $400 later and some JJR coilpacks are in and its smooth as silk.
Don't bother with half assed fixes, just bite the bullet and pay the money, its well worth it.
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i havent got 10 posts so i can't reply to PM's yet, few more to go
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agreed with Bubba, it is a percentage measurement.
using the calculator that Bakes supplied above - yes the difference is 22mm which according to those QLD laws is ILLEGAL for you.
however, if you were to fit 235/40/18 tyres on the same rim - the overall diameter increase would be 13.47mm = LEGAL
so moral of the story, fit 235/40/18s and you'll be all sweet
wow, thanks for that i just learnt something. so i'm 1/2 legal, just need to sort out the rears which are bald anyway.
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Hi all.
I have some 18" wheels on my R32, currently they have 245/40s on the back and 235/40s on the front.
I want to swap for 16" or 17" wheels, mainly for legality purposes (im being honest at least) and just to draw a bit less attention overall.
the 235's both have brand new rubber on them, literally 1 week old, the 245s, 1 is about 5% left the other , to my untrained eye around 50%.
Heres some pics, varying degrees of gutter rash, but not too bad really overall...
anyone interested let me know, preferably after wheels with more then 75% rubber on all, no bald tyres please.
<-- this is the worst of the gutter rash -
So my R32 has 18" wheels and the tyres are 40 profile
The R32 came with 205/55 R16
The rules as per QLD at least state
"The rim diameter may be varied from the standard size
but the overall diameter of the tyre must not vary by
more than +15mm or -26mm."
so if I have 245x40 R18
18 x 2.54 = 45.72 + 4cm = 49.72cm
and stock
16 x 2.54 = 40.64 + 5.5cm = 46.14cm
49.72 - 46.14 = 3.58cm or 35.8mm
am I doing something wrong or is my car currently not legal?
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If it's only hissing during gear change then it's right.
The ultimate question still hasn't been answered - Do you run a pod filter???????
yeah mate its got a pod filter on it.
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Was it a constant hiss under boost, or only during gear change?
The stock bypass valve recirculates from the intake manifold to the inducer in the front of the turbo.
only during gear change, i only drove it about 50 metres before i went back and replaced the mother can mod. not so much of a hiss more of a roar, definately not like it was supposed to sounds like, the factory quiet standard
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Two things.
First, the can gasket was put there to block the bypass valve intentionally. A lot of the younger generation do this for what they refer to as a dose (the flutter) noise. This is potentially harmful and not a good thing to do.
Secondly, by removing the can and you are using a pod filter and you hear a whoosh noise when you change gears, that's just the bypass valve doing it's job to recirculate the pressurised intake charge to the front of the turbo. This is normal if running a pod. If you use a stock filter box, the noise will be less predominate.
maybe the gasket has broken down because it wasn't a normal air noise, it was a very loud hiss. the stock BOV is just a very simple unit isn't it ? its just plumbing back into the plenum, theres nothing else I need to be looking at besides a new gasket ?
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Hi all
I just bought an R32 gtst. The BOV is stock and it makes a flutter noise when I change gears.
Today I was taking the plumbing off to get access for the coil packs and noticed that when I took off the stock BOV connection to the intake plenum (<> shaped with 2 bolts holding it together), the gasket was there, but the shonky guys who owned it before me had made a plate from a 'Mother' drink can to close off the pipe, essentially blocking the plumb back.
When I took it for a drive after I removed their dodgy 'fix', when it was under boost and gears were changed it made a really bad hissing noise, something was definately wrong.
Anyone know of the problem and how to fix it. I have put the 'Mother' can mod back in place because the car was undrivable otherwise, was not handling boost at all.
Need A Workshop
in Western Australia
Posted
Hi everyone, I've just moved here, I'm in need of a workshop to diagnose where I have this squeal coming from under boost (3/4 throttle).
I spose its one of those things that could be found very quickly on a dyno, has anyone got a recommendation on a decent shop that won't charge the earth for what is more then likely a simple task with the right tools. I live in the city if thats anything to go by, anywhere close to there/airport area.
Thanks