DatsunMotorSports

Im holding your dictionary hostage so that I can black male you into getting my sprinkles back... now what!? Yes I hopped a jet out there, broke into your house, took your dictionary off the shelf, tucked it into my luggage, and made it home in time for dinner. My Sprinkles.

YOU STOLE MY BLOODY SPRINKLES! Give 'em back! PS, And dont you dare eat any of them!

That was my translation as well "Seems to me the writer is requesting ONE unit that is basically guaranteed to work upon arrival because there is extended ship time." But someone should have requested clarification if there was any doubt in the translation. A simple check over and revision of the original email from the buyer in the first place would have insured this, if there was any doubt by the seller it should have been followed by a request for that clarification or a confirmation of what they thought the order was. poor grammar+poor communications=this situation.

Your personal information should be deleted/removed from this public thread. I did blank it out when I quoted it. Total agreement there. Ray A.

What happens when you go to Mc Donalds or enter in fast food restaurant name here and use slang to order your food... 1. Spit in you food or worse 2. Your order will just plain be wrong What are the odds that you will get exactly what you want? Then there is the fact that if you look at ever post by this guy in this thread that he does not check his grammar, so how can you interpret exactly what he meant in any sense. And that just makes any translation that much harder, because the reader has no idea if the writer meant to put a comma in or not. Add the run on sentences, incomplete sentences, and mis-spelled words and its a miracle anyone perceived this writers intentions.

Holy Tangent Batman, Anyways I received news from Rotary Performance(the American side distributor). My FC-Datalogit is in fact faulty. They tested it and came up with the same exact results. So here I am 9/27 still waiting for a response from FC-Datalogit. I sent them one more last email stating that I need repair immediately. My FC Box is still with Rotary Performance waiting for FC datalogit to contact us back. Rotary Performance is also trying to contact FC Datalogit. I will not buy a new FC Box. Its just not worth $300 plus shipping. I will wait until I can get my old unit repaired, and hope that they are not going to try and dick me on the bill for that. I cannot imagine the repair would be over $100 when APEXi charged me $100 to ship my unit to Japan and back and for some major board repair after it fried some of the diodes, resistors, and a chip onboard(not to mention the replacement commander port). In the case that this gets dragged out for several weeks I will likely buy the FC-HAKO, and if the FC Datalogit ever makes it back repaired just sell it. As for the Tangent, "Hey David I would like to place my order for one unit. I will be using it on the PFC GTR33L Why do you ask what vehicle will it be used for? Will it be specific for this vehicle? I'll be using my wife Paypal account. The email address is as follows: ****************@yahoo.com And i would like it shipped to Florida at: ************ west park fl 33023 One favor though..... could you send me an extra special unit, as it will be coming to Trinidad which is very far and will be lots of headache to return if there are any problems Thanks Kel." The writer obviously NEEDS to take an English class or at least take the time to check their grammar before sending off an order request. Seems to me the writer is requesting ONE unit that is basically guaranteed to work upon arrival because there is extended ship time. Im not sure I understand what all the rest of the banter is about here. "Thank you guys..... This guy seems to be the only one that is interpreting that statement to mean I wanted two units, even though in the first line of the email I clearly stated I wanted to place my order for one unit. And even if you did have a doubt about a "extra special unit" I even gave an explanation as to why, and I think anyone would have recognised what I meant by that. The hard part about it is that you didnt have the decency to let me know that in "your own little world" there was a problem, even after multiple other emails asking if there was in fact a problem. You should stick to playing with software or what ever it is that you do, and let someone else do the PR work! " IF you are the writer of that email then you asked for all the problems. A simple review of your email and revision to get your order request across to the seller would have saved you a lot of trouble. You have left yourself looking like a fool publicly with an email like that and then complaining about how you were done wrong. Forgive me if you are not the same person. ROLLS "As I said "extra special" is a fairly Australian term I imagine so I can see how they might get confused, regardless it is extremely unprofessional for them to paste your email up on a message board including address and your paypal account. As far as the thread question goes it sounds like a communications error, either USB port, com port or te usb to com adaptor itself, all of these are easy to isolate and change. Buy a new usb adaptor, something they recommend as working preferably, try several laptops or remove it from the equation and borrow a laptop with a serial adaptor. If non of these fix it then I would say it is the unit itself, nothing more you can check yourself without sending the unit off. " This guys address is in the USA specifically Fl., Id say, they might have left out some of the more personal details for this guy, but with communications like that Id say they are well within there right to defend themselves against crap talkers. Not that I didnt ask for some crap talking, but if you are going to bag on someones product please do it in a civil well thought out way. As for the communications error its not the USB port, Com port, or USB cable/adapter. Basically what was happening was the FC EDIT software could see my FC Box(which means all the ports, cables, adapters, and software were good), but the FC box would not interface the PFC! So its the FC BOX since now we have confirmed that it does the same thing on a known good PFC and the interesting thing is that the tester was able to connect a commander to the PFC and to the FC Datalogit box and the Commander(hand controller) worked flawlessly. This indicates that there is most likely something wrong with my FC datalogit box and not even the cable between the FC Box and the PFC. So now we are down to the FC Box alone. I opened it up as well, but when the tester opened it up and checked it out he also found no apparent flaw on the FC Box circuit board. So we now suspect that some sort of current spike/surge and or static electricity has taken out the onboard chip memory/programming that deals with communications between the PFC and the Datalogit box. "From my personal experience,these guys suck a$ big time..I had a hard time even getting to buy the unit, so I could just have imagined after sale support. If it turns out your datalogit is bad, just spend the extra and get a new one....Thats what I did and have no regrets " This isnt well thought out criticism. Especially if you knew that they were on this board and might read it. That just tells me and others that you wanted to start a pissing contest and nothing else. A civil answer would have sufficed, but it appears that is not how you do business. Ive gotten pretty close mind you to going there on several occasions in frustration with the FC Datalogit, but Ive tried to keep it fairly civil. Personally with the support behind the FC Datalogit, as I said no, I will not buy a new one. $300 down the drain every time it goes out or has an issue is just a waste of cash. Id much rather sell my PFC and spend the money on an AEM Universal Stand Alone. For $200 Id give the FC-HAKO a try at least once and see how that goes since I already have experience with this FC Datalogit. It just cannot get worse. " He did use it correctly, the fact he didn't use a comma meant he wanted an 'extra special unit' not an 'extra, special unit'. The distributor who posted his PRIVATE email up on a message board interpreted it as if he had put a comma in. The distributor is in the wrong x2. " Your just good at reading minds ROLLS, Seriously how can you apply any grammar rules to this guys statements. Not one is completely grammatically correct. So he remembered ONE comma, Whats one comma when you specify 'ONE' unit. The buyer needs to work on his grammer, and the distributor probably should have asked for clarification if there was any doubt(of which I can see plenty by everyones interpretations). And if the buyer refused to be clear in exactly what he was asking then I would have refused to do business personally. If you received a phone call from someone that spoke like that, how well do you think your order would have gone? He might as well have been speaking slang. A simple, 'Would you please send me a second unit, so that I have a back up in case I have any trouble.' would have been the proper way to convey this request. Like I said, grammar.

The US Distributor saw my posts on the yahoo groups forum and gave me a phone call. He cannot offer repair service, but he can give me some basic diagnosis. So Im sending my FC Box off to him. He can at least plug it in and see if he can get it to work with a serial cable and retest the PFC plug. Then I have to decide what to do from there. Ive got my fingers crossed he comes up with the same results. If he doesnt my next step is diag on the PFC itself. I think though that if the FC Box needs replacement that I will go with the FC HAKO. If it can be repaired for cheap i may explore that option, but Im not willing to wait for months on end to hear from FC Datalogit much less wait many more months to get my repair completed and returned. Im very happy though that the US Distributor made the call and is offering what he can to help me out. Thats very cool. I checked the connector. That was my first thought. I ohm'd out the wires from PFC board to the FC Box board. I didnt spend the extra $350 for the commander so I do not know if it would work or not. Very cool. I do not own a computer with a serial port. Im fairly certain that the usb cable converter is not the problem. All three cables used different drivers. I didnt use the supplied driver with the gigaware converter supplied with the FC Datalogit, I was able to find a better driver for that cable that worked with Win 2000 - Win 7. All three had the same error and showed they were connected, but the interface to the PFC was not responding even though I can see the FC Box.

Hello SAU, I have an engine swap in a 1974 260Z. I have a 94 R33 Series 2 rb25det in the car. Its setup as it would be from the donor car. For 3 years I have enjoyed my APEXi Power FC and FC-datalogit box. It has worked without flaw. However around mid last month I changed my turbo to a later S2 style with the nylon compressor wheel(My engine came with an upgraded turbo with an aluminum compressor and ceramic turbine). So I needed to retune the car for this S2 turbo. I have AFR's of 16.9:1 at idle and 11.1 at WOT. Cruise is 15.5:1 or so. Needless to say I need to get my tune straightened out. I went to go retune my PFC as I had done a few months before to tweek my redline and boost level when my old turbo started to howl and I ran into problems. My port is setup correctly. I have tried turning the baud rate up and down. I have tried several other things as well to try and get this connect. I can set the FC Edit software to autodetect the port and it works and says "FC-Box V2.0 found on COM 6" which tells me the software can see my FCbox and on the correct port, but when I try to read or write I get "Interface not Responding!". I have tried re-installing my drivers, restarting my laptop, re-installing my FC Edit software(and different versions) and I get the same thing every time. I have tried 3 different cables: The std cable provided with the FC-Datalogit, A Radio Shack Prolific cable, and the staples cable. All produce the same situation. I have posted this on the yahoo groups forums since the get go on 8/21. I have also sent like 6 emails to FC=datalogit tech and sales. I was able to get Alice in sales to respond once asking me to check the pins going into the PFC. The Second email was "Thank you for your email. We are currently on holiday overseas – We will reply when we return on Friday 2nd September. Sorry for the inconvenience this may cause." back on the 30th of last month. I have heard NOTHING since then despite a few more emails from me. I have tapped out the yahoo groups knowledge as well. I am about to send my FC box off to someone half way across the US just to see if they can connect to their car. If i wasnt stateside Id be kicking down FC-Datalogits door at this point. Ive demanded that they phone me to prevent anymore lack of communication. Did I mention this car is my daily driver to work and such? So I either have to continue to drive my car into the ground or get a rental car to solve this issue until FC-datalogit gets around to me. Really unacceptable. My other option is to throw money at the situation. Im looking at buying the FC-HAKO. Come this Friday I will likely place the order. BTW, less than a year ago I sent my PFC off to APEXi for repair. The Commander port and a few of the internal components related to the fuel pump were replaced because of inductive current fly back. All that has been addressed and internally my PFC still looks and functions great. I do not have a commander to plug in though to see if it works. So my diagnosis is really limited. Im feeling aggravated that this is the kind of support that FC-Datalogit gives for their $300USD part. If I had money I would have already just bought an AEM stand alone last week. My only concern is that I do not have ANY way of knowing what the issue is. I assume that since my FC Edit software can see my FC Box V2 that my USB cables are working(all three). My LED on the FC Box is on so I assume that the FC Box is also powered up. My lack of interface could be either the FC BOX itself, the FC Box serial cable to the PFC, or the commander port(again but I doubt it). Like I said my PFC seems to function flawlessly. My check engine light, fuel pump, boost controller kit, etc all seem to function. I just cannot read or write anything without that message "Interface Not Responding!". So thats my issue, feel free to address any part of it. Im ready to drop kick this damn FC Box down my driveway. Thanks from the USA, Ray A.

To be honest even 10* sounds like a lot! But that is coming from NA engine building where most power is dialed in withing 3 degrees of spec most of the time. Ive seen some aftermarket cams with a little more, but never 10 degrees much less 20 degrees. More over lap at top end sounds good to me. Clear the chamber and fill longer is usually beneficial. cant wait to check it all out on the dyno.

Variable Cam Timing Operation Just found this. Took me a few hours. Google searches suck. Im going to stick with the forum search next time. 20* advanced when VVT on. Thats a lot of advance for a cam!

1994 Skyline GTs-t RB25det S2 engine. So I came across a set of adjustable cam gears for the RB. They are new in the boxes, and less than half the cost of any store out there with them. This particular set is made by Fidanza part # 95048 9. Fidanza lists these gears for RB20, RB25, and RB26. So what Im looking at is an identical set of gears. Ive been poking around on the net searching for how this is done. I have seen references to the stock intake gear being slotted already, but I have never taken it apart to discover this. BTW there was only 1 reference to this and I never found anything else on it. There were a ton of guys just eliminating the variable cam timing components. Thats pretty common. Id like to keep the variable cam timing esp considering I have control over it with the APEXi PFC. I found another reference here stating that very few manufactures design these gears to work with the stock variable cam timing components. I believe they were Greddy, Tomei, and a few others, but after searching for pictures of these gear sets I found none that looked much different to mine. I would have a much clearer view of things if I disassembled the timing components, but Im just not there yet. Id like to be able to adjust both intake and exhaust. Im curious what I will actually end up seeing on the dyno though. With the variable cam timing Im not sure how adjustable the intake cam will be before I see a drop in power, but I suspect I can play with a couple of degrees and make a small gain on the intake. I think the biggest gain will be in the exhaust. Its hard to tell with stock cams and the VCT, but Id like to try and see what happens. There isnt much out there on people doing this with real world performance results. I suspect these gears will not work for the intake side, but the price was good, so Im just looking for a discussion on adjusting the intake side cam gear with VCT in place. I dont have specifics on exactly what the VCT is doing. I suspect it retards the cam at idle and then actually turns off and lets oil pressure advance the cam at a determined RPM range. (My PFC lets me determine that RPM range at this point). I dont know if this is correct or how many degrees the cam is allowed to move. If someone knows please fill me in. Im starting to get into the design aspect of this thing so I can re-engineer it if I determine it would suite my purpose. I need to understand the operation first though. Thanks for any light you guys can shed on the situation. for reference I have read these: http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry5690602 http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry5570467 http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry5487613 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/316272-greddy-rb25-vct-adjustable-cam-gear/page__p__5187272__hl__adjustable+cam+gear__fromsearch__1#entry5187272 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/300784-has-anyone-seen-these-before/page__p__4995997__hl__adjustable+cam+gear__fromsearch__1#entry4995997 So if the stock gear is adjustable and the best setting for the intake cam is straight up then Im good to go. The key is to make sure with the stock cams that it is STRAIGHT UP! That is the purpose behind having any adjustable cam anyway is to dial it in to exactly where you want it. Just in case anyone is wondering about my thoughts behind all this.

APEXi-USA says they can repair the unit for me. They offer repair services starting at a minimum $50 fee and up to a $350 repair fee for a complete replacement. I spoke with their techs on Friday and on Monday and requested a RMA # to send it off. It sounds like they send it out of the US to get repaired. The turn around is about 1-2 months. Ray

So last week I went out to start the car in the morning and the car would not start. The Ignition Fuse had blown. I found it and replaced it. Then I noticed the fuel pump was not priming. So after a bit of testing the circuits for the pump I decided to try the stock ECU. The stock ECU works with no problems. So its gotta be the ground switch inside the Power FC. I opened up the cover on the FC and did not see any heat scoring or obviously burned up components. So the next step is to contact a reputable shop for repair. Im open to suggestions. I found this place and sent them an email about getting my PFC diagnosed and repaired Rising Sun Performance Can someone please post a anti-flyback circuit as well so I can permanently resolve this issue. As many of the RB25DET ecu's I have seen with this circuit burned out on the boards this fix should be public knowledge. Today I found the culprit. The fuse that supplied power to the ECCS relay had an intermittent problem. That particular fuse was a 12V source at all times. The little glass fuse was apparently defective and every time I tested it it was good. YES I ohm'd out my fuses and voltage drop tested them... So with a clear head I went out to the car this morning and noted that the relays and apexi boost valve were rapidly clicking again like power was not being applied through the main voltage circuit. I went to pop the fuse out and suddenly everything came on... I also noted that the fuse gets warm after long periods of driving. Its not hot, but maybe the heat aided the defect. My guess is the heat, bumpy roads, and defect in the fuse caused the power failure that induced the voltage flyback that took out the fuel pump ECU ground. Thanks and sorry if this is in the wrong section... nothing really matched Electronic Problems that I saw... If there is and I missed it somehow maybe a moderator can move this? Ray A.

Hey guys, I still have this manifold. Im looking at offing it. Id like to get $175 for it plus postage. ALSO have these things: -FM Intercooler Approximately 30" wide (including end tanks) x 14.5"x 2 .25" with 2.75" port $150 obo -FM Intercooler Approximately 30" wide (excluding end tanks) x 15"x 3 .25" with 2.75" ports $150 obo -2 AWD oil pans $offer -Front Sump Oil Pickup $34.00 ea -Vehicle Speed Sensor VSS $20.00 -RB26DETT stock exhaust manifolds in almost new condition (low Km R34) $150 obo -RB20 timing belt upper cover and backing plate $50 obo -Innovate Wide Band LC-1 Basic New in the box: Cable, Sensor, Serial, Bosch O2, and misc hardware (retails for $199+shipping) $180 plus shipping -92 Q45 90mm Throttle Body $80 obo -RB25DET stock manifold no hardware $50 obo Can Glass Blast it for $15 more. (will need to be thoroughly washed in solvant after blasting) Negotiable . If you are interested in buy a few things or more Im more inclined make a sweet deal. My location is Sacramento California USA. Buyers are responsible for shipping or pickup. Pictures available

hey Grant, Im interested in your boost controller unit. I already have the PFC so Im ready to go. If you are willing to ship to the US Im interested in paying for the shipping. I sent you a SMS this evening. Its 8pm over here on the west coast of the US and its like 4am over there. Again I apologize if I woke you. In case the SMS didnt make it through my email is [email protected]

Confirmation... The ANSWER is that in 1996 Non-TCS G50 Platforms with the VH45de state side definitely came with a 1 year only throttle body that utilizes the newer style TPS. So Series II "S2" RB25det Owners need to use this one year only throttle body if they want the 90mm. I cannot fit much else in my old Zed so I have to find one.

Hey all, I have some information to add to this: I have a 1994 ECR33 rb25det 5spd in my old Datsun. It is a S2 engine. I have it wired in just like it was in the R33. Everything including the data port. I have been running the car in stock form for over a year now. I bought the GReddy intake and I have a 92 infiniti Q45 throttle body laying around from when I parted one out. 1. the S2 TPS setup has one brown connector on the upper tps connector port in stock configuration. The lower connector is the switch and it is not used or wired into the S2 loom. There should be a blank block off connector plugged into it. So you do not wire this up to your harness when you swap over to the Q45 TB. That should help a good portion of people. 2. The S1 and S2 throttle position sensors do not correlate with each others outputs(We are not talking about the switch part). The lower connector on the S2 and the pigtailed connector on the S1 is the sensor circuit we are comparing here. My Data for reference Both my S2 sensors check out according to the FSM with FLYING COLORS. They spec out according to the FSM. They are to be back probed with ignition on engine off and they have voltage readings to be measured. Well I busted out my meter and Bench tested 4 TPS's. I drew up some pictures of the connectors which I will not share here, but I was able to reference the 2 styles of connectors that way. For comparison I bench tested the 4 tps sensors using my meter. For your purposes I will compare them with a 1 , 2 , and 3 for each respective pin. S2 1-2 idle 5.25kΩ 1-2 wot 136.3Ω 2-3 idle 257Ω 2-3 wot 5.32kΩ 1-3 total 5.28kΩ S2 1-2 idle 5.02kΩ 1-2 wot 70Ω 2-3 idle 290Ω 2-3 wot 5.16kΩ 1-3 total 5.09kΩ S1 1-2 idle 9.54Ω 1-2 wot 290Ω 2-3 idle 290Ω 2-3 wot 9.55kΩ 1-3 total 9.44kΩ 89 KA24e 1-2 idle 8.83kΩ 1-2 wot 124Ω 2-3 idle 324.4Ω 2-3 wot 8.90kΩ 1-3 total 8.76kΩ I have a 86 300zxt (VG30et) and 92 Q45 TPS around somewhere as well. I may be able to locate them and test them as well, but I think I will get about the same results. There was a change with the Pre/partial OBDII stuff around 94 when Nissan jumped on that band wagon. There is almost twice the amount of resistance going through the older S1 and KA TPS switches. The Q45 TPS should be the same as the KA24e... Less resistance through the TPS means higher voltage signals to the ECU. Nissan must have had interference problems with the TPS signal and needed to up the voltage to clean it up. That is all I can think of. They did the same thing with the modern A/F sensors where the voltage scale starts at like 3 volts rather than 800mV like traditional sensors. If this is true they may have changed the engineering of the wire shielding for the sensor wire itself or the other 2 wires. I have a FSM for a S1 that shows the TPS at .3V-.4V KOEO. I have no idea what the spec is for the S2. I set my S2 originally to the S1 spec and the car functioned properly to the best of my knowledge. Anyway take my data with a grain of salt. I am not an electrical engineer. I tried to check and recheck my data, but it could be bogus. I am mostly self taught when it comes to this stuff. I have found 1 picture of a 96 Q45 throttle body. It had the S2 style TPS on it. So that may be of some assistance. I will not be cutting my harness to put a sensor on that doesnt have the same specs as the original unless I get absolute confirmation the system would work acceptably in that condition. I see lots of crazy wiring going on with these engines over here... Lots of smoked ECU circuits(mostly the FP relay from flyback voltage). NicoClub 96 Q45 TB S2 TPS Sensor Thread

Hey guys, I have the drivetrain for 94 ECR33. Its an RB25DET. Im about to install the APEXi Power FC and FC Datalogit units into my car. I would like to install the add on boost controller, but I cannot find it for a good price over here. Im located in Sacramento California USA. Im perfectly fine with a working used unit if it gets me in the price range. I am willing to spend about $100-$150 for the kit and Ill cover shipping. I poke around on this site every once in a while searching for hard to find information, but I rarely post anything. Shoot me an email if you have one of these APEXi 415-A001 kits in good working order and your looking to sell it. Thanks for looking

I have a brake booster and master cylinder from a R32 clip. Im considering installing it into an old S30 chassis(zcar). It almost bolts into the firewall and the pedal linkage works. The master cylinder has a built in "proportioning valve". I was told it came from a GTR, but I think it may have been from a RB20DET equipped R32. The master cylinder looks like it was a Non-ABS equipped unit. It has 3 lines coming out of it. One is at a 45* angle. It apears that the rear 2 are the front left and right while the farthest forward is the rear brakes. I would like to see if anyone has a clue as to what would be in the rest of the brake system. What valves would I be missing, etc. Id almost guess that there isnt anything else in the system other than the master cylinder. Can anyone shed some light on what system I am dealing with? Anyone have a diagram for that system and what components make it up?(or even a list) If it will help I can post a picture of the unit. Worse comes to worse I will bolt a S130 (82-83) master cylinder to the booster and use that. (the brake booster is far superior to the single diaphram that came on my Z) I need a larger cylinder to support the larger brakes Im going to install. Thanks for any help you guys can supply Ray

I am looking for a clutch for my 94 GTS-T RB25DET. My car is pretty much all stock. My clutch recently started to slip. I would love to get my hands on an original and new Nissan clutch for my car, but they are not available here in the States through the dealer and I dont know where else to look. I have no clue as to what aftermarket stuff really works as mostly I see a lot of hearsay all over the web about almost every aftermarket clutch being garbage. So I am left with an unsure/uneasy feeling about dealing with non-Nissan parts. I have a good flywheel and Pilot bearings are available here. Im looking for new parts. Pics, details, and price please? I dont post much here so I dont have a working pm function. email me for now at: [email protected] Thanks Ray

I have a modified RB25DET intake manifold that will fit S1 or S2 RB25's. It was a standard manifold for these engine that I had modified to face the throttle body towards the front of the motor rather than the side like stock. Im not looking to make a profit from this, but I am looking to get what I have into it. Between material and paying a friend to machine and weld the parts up I have $200 into the manifold. From what people are saying on the boards it looks like this manifold is great for someone looking to be mostly stock but also have the forward facing throttle body. The added bonus is that all the stock hoses and devices pretty much bolt up to this manifold. The new fitting in the center is where I chose to relocated the vacuum line for the FPR. PM me if interested. I'd rather hold onto the unit if I cant get what I have into it back out of it.