funki_munki

Yeah that does help,its not a slow journey to 4k,quite quick in fact,this is my first car making this sort of power and ive modified it from stock but from my previous mods to the ones stated ive jumped 100rwkw lol i didnt think 4k was that bad as std is arlund 3200ish? So 800pm later and 150rwkw more then stock isnt too bad,still keen to test the whole antisurge vs normal housing theory out.when i was coosing turbos i favoured the 10cm over the 8 as the 8 seemed better for smaller engines(e.g 2ltrs) and the deciding figure was the cfm of it as it out flows a 3076r at the same boost levels from what ive read.will post results when ive got my stuff sorted ;-)

I run a bov any ways,only reason i got the antisurge was that kando had a sale on ebay,$711 shipped to my door.for $160ish its worth a shot as im now using the car for drift and starting to learn in a car that only comes on boost at 4000 is a bit of a challange,my tuner (cece @ jaustech) says that if i go to a 6boost or similar it would improve my power curve and also spool quicker aswell,not surd if 4000 is slow or quick for my setup lol

Here are the specs,page 271 of this thread you can find the dyno graph R34 GT-T 4 Door Internally stock Neo motor Splitfire coil packs HDi cooler w/custom piping 3" exhaust w/100cell metal cat Tomei type A poncams MSLR head gasket Arp head studs PnT Performance intake manifold w/r33 s2 throttle body 650cc Siemens Deka Injectors Aeroflow high flow fuel rail Turbosmart FPR800 Walbro 255lph fuel pump Hybrid Performance top mount exhaust manifold Turbosmart Compgate 40 Kando TD06H 60-1 w/anti surge front housing and 10cm rear Gizzmo IBC Nistune After matsuri ill go about ordering one of those normal housings and then get a dyno run done again.

Im running an antisurged TD06H 60-1 10cm, front housings are cheap so i may have to try a normal one ,currently making 310rwkw @ 18psi,boost is on hard at 4000rpm.

Yeah i am pretty happy with the results,there is a problem in 5th which i've been told is due to the design of the manifold, if im in 5th and try to come onto boost the car hesitates massively and looses power, haven't done it a lot as i don't spend much time in 5th at higher rpm, not sure if anyone else has had this problem? but other then that the car is a dream to drive around the street, low end power is decent, enough to drive around at under 3500 and still have poke to get into traffic and that way the ext gate doesn't let rip so i dont get those awkward stares from other motorists lol

Heres the dyno graph, i know the dip looks massive but its not noticable when driving, think its go something to do with my manifold design?

Dont have a dyno sheet on me atm as im away at work, but will upload when i can. R34 GT-T 4 Door Internally stock Neo motor Splitfire coil packs HDi cooler w/custom piping 3" exhaust w/100cell metal cat Tomei type A poncams MSLR head gasket Arp head studs PnT Performance intake manifold w/r33 s2 throttle body 650cc Siemens Deka Injectors Aeroflow high flow fuel rail Turbosmart FPR800 Walbro 255lph fuel pump Hybrid Performance top mount exhaust manifold (hopefully upgrade to a 6boost when funds allow) Turbosmart Compgate 40 Kando TD06H 60-1 w/anti surge front housing and 10cm rear Gizzmo IBC Nistune Car made 310rwkw's and 620nm of torque @ 18psi on BP98, full boost hits at 4000rpm. Since it was finished its been back on the dyno and its still pulling consistent numbers, last 3 runs if i remember correctly were 309,311 and 313 and i still get over 450kms to a tank of juice

+1 for ecutalk. got a cable and a 10" netbook for in the car

car was originally a non turbo auto converted to turbo manual. Never had tcs work,got rid of the tcs throttle body and have a r33 s2 which ive fitted the neo tps to. The pnt ffp use the standerd iac valve so no need to swap to an r33 item. As for the nistune,im not sure what the boys at jaustech did when i had it installed as to what image is on it,either way it worked lol. Im doing the head gasket as i might aswell do it now instead of it blowing later on and having to get it replaced (while most of the bits are off i might aswell replace it) studs i picked up for 200 and figured it was a worth while investment as you shouldnt reuse head bolts. thats a nice setup neil,what turbo you have?

ive been looking for the same for my car,i know im not going to gain alot of hp if any,or if the shorter cooler piping will make a difference.the main reason is to tidy the engine bay up as ill be running a top mount setup and dont want pipes running all over the hot side of the engine bay. Ive been reading through many forums trying to decide what the best option for a neo would be that would require the least amount of work for it to fit. alot of people run the greddy/freddy ffp and use an adaptor plate for the iac valve,im not a big fan of this and i have only found 1 other type of ffp that is made for the neo and fits the neo iac and pretty much all the stock parts will fit. Its sold on ebay and made by a company called PnT performance in thailand, i know this is starting to sound a bit questionable but from further investigation to their ffp on 2jz's (alot of reading through supra forums) all of the buyers were happy with the product and only a minor few requiring facing. Thats what im going for anyways,they sell for about $699+$175postage, nethless to say i am also upgrading pretty much everything else so a ffp is waranted. Kando TD06h 60-1 Top mount manifold Turbosmart 40mm compgate aeroflow billet alloy fuel rail (i know its not needed,i really shouldnt be allowed ebay while drunk lol) siemens deka 650cc injectors 1.3mm pmslr head gasket arp head studs tomei type a poncams (think 252 in/ex) plus all the other little odds and ends to make the above work Allready have nistune,splitfires,3" turbo back w/100cell metal cat and a HDi fmic. if your only looking for around the 400rwhp mark,you shouldnt need a ffp as many people have proven in the past with much higher hp.

pm sent

Up for sale is my FS Racing Baja Buggy. Originally bought from 3 Amigos in adelaide. Nearly all parts have been upgraded from stock as it being a "MCD copy" most of the electronics and motor were crap. 30.5cc Big bore head and +2mm stuffer stroker crank Talon whipper snipper bottem end. Genuine Walbro carby w/pod filter Custom made tuned exhaust pipe Converted from 2wd to 4wd (front diff & pinion gear need replacing or could be removed to make it 2wd again) HPI Throttle servo Hitec 1/5th scale steering servo Metal gear set Alloy gear carrier Converted to the Talon pull start system (better design, stock one kept braking) Traxxas 3ch RX & TX Venom Fail safe Car looks a bit "piggish" looking as the body is removed and its a bare roll cage, I have owned the car for 5+ years and its seen many changes (3 motors,3 gear sets) it is now at the stage where the mechanicals are all up to scratch and stay reliable. This car is solid and has never missed a beat since doing the final lot of upgrades. Car will come with a whole bunch of spares ive collected including 2 rechargeable 6v rx packs, there is probably more about the car ive missed but im happy to answer any questions about it. I no longer have the time to play with it anymore, as my car has taken priority of my hobbies. Pickup only or buyer to arrange postage at their cost. $550 Pm on here Daniel

Some bits sold, rest still needs to go.

Bump

PM Stock parts from my R34 GTT Doing upgrades and this stuff is no longer needed any more. Radiator (no shroud) few bent fins,nothing major. $80 Neo "Turtle Shell" Has been trimmed to allow for FMIC crossover pipe to fit. $20 Neo crossover pipe. $20 Neo ReCirc Valve (BOV). $20 Neo Throttle body w/TCS unit (No TPS). $40 Rb25det S2 TPS. $30 Pink Label AFM. Excellent condition (will have plug for it when I wire up for my z32) $60 or $80inc Plug Stock Boost Solenoid. $30 Stock Exhaust manifold. $40 Stock Rubber Intake Pipe. $15 All Prices are ONO. Discounts for people that take multiple items. Pick-up from Clearview 5085 S.A. Postage available,buyer to pay. PM on here or txt 0432 838 323