pyro-ns

next step is to remove pump and inspect then i guess. it's a bit hard for the foot to get clogged, but anything's possible. see what kind of warranty you've got on the pump, or if you can work something out with the workshop if you suspect foul play. else, change brands i guess? best of luck either way

that's awful mate my wife and i hope for a speedy and complete recovery for you. like the others, i'd say don't sell it yet. i personally wouldn't sell it at all, you'll regret it if you do. just make it more comfortable when you get back on your feet. as for motorsports... i'm not one to tell another how to live their lives, but i know that i personally would live in regret, had i not pursued the things i had wanted to in my life. for the moment, try and have the best christmas and new years you can

disconnect fuel hose @ the filter, have a good rag handy, turn the key to ignition (ie, don't start it) and the pump should prime and pressurise the line. check the relay also. see if you can swap it with someone else, or at least swap it with something else in there first. check any other fuses too.

i would definitely recommend it. if you get it right, the boost onset is savage. but in saying that, i haven't got mine working yet

just out of curiosity, what sort of boost controller are you running?

I'd be pretty happy with that for $10k mate. you've got the goods plus a very clean, professional looking job. if i may have a small nitpick though ( ), it looks like your heatshield/airbox is covering/including your charged air intercooler pipe. it's something small, but i'd be keeping that on the outside of the airbox edit: tj, you've picked the wrong one! i've already pre-approved a $30k supra with mine i'm still working on the 30k engine package though

are you sure you're talking about the same thing? they are the same as the standard ones, they don't stick out any further and they use the exact same mounting system

hand controller is now working and showing load point! now solenoid doesn't seem to be doing anything ffs! edit: solenoid is now working! but even at idle i'm at load point 64...

all good, i may have screwed up and may have read the pinout diagram wrong :lol: step 1, don't do this at night, step 2, don't let me do it :lol: now i've lost my IEBC instructions... isn't the hand controller meant to cycle through the load points as you press the throttle? i've got the input led flashing, but not the output led flashing... edit: ahh crap hand controller is meant to read current load point.... mine doesn't just reads point 64 like always. anyone got any ideas? i'm kinda running blind without the instructions, but google is helping a little bit...

Hi all so i was wiring the IEBC into my wife's stag last night and something's gone wrong. I've got my power source and ground for certain (pin 31 for ignition power, pin 32 for ground). I've also grabbed what i thought was injector 1 cycle (pin 101) and the solenoid control (104). i'm relatively confident that i've got the solenoid right, which would lead me to believe i've got the wrong signal from what i thought was the injector wire. problem is, according to the ecu pin-out, it's all apples. the only thing that i can think of that's overdrive related is pin 115 which is "overrun clutch solenoid valve control signal", which is miles away from the wire that i've spliced for injector signal... . i'm referencing the R34 ecu pin out diagram btw, which i've been told is the same as the s2 stagea. if anyone's got any ideas at all, i'd be greatly appreciative. i have a long trip ahead of me very soon, so would like (at least) my overdrive back! cheers guys josh

my wife bought one for me, then we bought another one for her so that we could get our race on.... only to find that they operate on the same frequency, lol.

^^ your pic's a bit small mate. doesn't the neo have Continuous Variable cam Timing, as opposed to some form of variable timing??? there shouldn't be an overlap at all (in theory) with cvt?? edit: i've also noticed since putting a boost gauge in the girl's stag, the (stupid) dual stage boost doesn't work too great. in the second stage it spikes to 7 and then bleeds back out to 5 again :S

so am i.......

pm sent in before kidafa

email sent

Chris, is this the same Xanavi screen that's in the S2 stageas? My wife's got one (works great, aside from the japanese writing) in her stag and i'm trying to find out if i can replace the MD player that's in the din below it, with a dvd headunit and output to the Xanavi screen? We want to keep the screen for the climate control setup, so figured we might as well kill two birds with one stone.

quick and most likely noobish question, how do you manually engage overdrive? or is this an S1 only thing?

it'll never happen, but i'm in support. i've always found it strange that we're allowed to pilot tonnes of metal, with ANY level of a known and freely available sensory inhibitor in our bloodstream.

have you had an alignment recently? eliminate the cheap things first

jenna, it's easier if you just take off your passenger kick panel and have a look at the sticker on the ecu itself. on stag's it's a tool-less job, so i would have thought it'd be pretty similar for r34's. i need the part and serial number. for 34, they'll look a bit like this: Serial #: a56-j66-j02 8422 Part #: 23740 aa510 cheers mate. pm replied

13 months???? surely that's not an entire 13 months in a repair shop? assuming that 1 person works on it for 8 hrs a day for 11 months (this takes out holidays, some time the car spends waiting for paint to dry etc) at $50/hr (that's probably less than they charge), that's $22,000 in labour alone. either that should have been a write off, you're getting diddled on the time front, or they're absolutely killing themselves in undercharging... i apologise if i've got the wrong end of the stick, but that's excessive...

i've heard that you can polish glass with a water based polish, but haven't tested it, or know anyone personally who has. i don't know if this would achieve what you're chasing either. if your wipers are sticking to your windows when they're wiping, try changing from a rubber wiper to a silicone wiper or vice versa would probably your first (and cheapest) option. you could also try putting a small amount of detergent in your wiper reservoir (i generally put in about 4 drops of car washing detergent). you'd have to replace the nozzle. maybe try ebay for a quick fix?

Thank god! - QWK32 - Option1 & 3 - Sent 19/10 - Received Back - hibino - Sent 21/10 - Received Back - darrinspencer - Sent 22/10 - Received Back - Stagea_Neo - 27/10 - Received Back - RBPowaTJ - Sent 27/10 - Received Back - stenve - Items Received - Mr GTS4 - Items Received. - lesseragitant - Received Back. - canarygsr - Need another ROM - stagman - Need another ROM - pyro-ns - Unsent - msports180 - Unknown? Unsent? - JRM - Unsent - Awaiting details - SABBAi - Awaiting details

politics is generally based on pampering to morons though. edit: i'm kinda intrigued with the choice of "poster girl" in that flash clip on the front page... dawn critchlow?

well there wasn't any mention of foamy smoo.....