nakuma

For sale is my 1996 R33 GTST Currently makes 250rwkw will full boost (19 PSI) by 3,000 RPM Very quick and fun car to drive. Handles like a go-kart. Perfectly matched turbo for an unopened RB25 for quick response with no lag. Rego until June 2014 HKS 2835 Pro S turbo Custom 4" intake POD in custom air box FMIC Z32 AFM Koyorad Radiator Nismo 720cc injectors Splitfire coil packs Nismo coppermix clutch Lightened flywheel Greddy BOV (plumbed) Custom oil catch can Custom 3" turbo back exhaust (90db) Catco racing cat Nismo fuel pump Apexi PowerFC with controller Turbo timer Factory side skirts Nismo front lip (slightly damaged) Bilstein shocks Whiteline springs Whiteline swaybars R32 GTR front seats in leather Work Meister S1 2P (sit flush) Rolled guards Tint Factory floor mats Urathane bushes Spare parts: Original front seats R33 GTST standard wheels and tyres R34 GTT standard wheels and tyres Standard airbox with K&N filter Standard piping with BOV Original ECU Unused front brake pads Serviced every 5,000km with Motul turbolite 10w40 Aprox. 160,000km on the clock $11,000 Located near Frankston, Victoria Call / SMS me on 0422267622 ask for Shane Or contact me at [email protected] May not answer straight away (shift worker) Only one picture on my phone I will add more soon Cheers

You're right, that's what got my stumped I have no idea why the issue resolved itself All the sensors showed the expected voltage I thought it would be shit fuel too, but when it fired up yesterday there were no issues at all. I thought if I took it for a spin I would atleast get a little knock from the fuel but it never went above 19

Fuel is a few weeks old TPS is reading 0.36v closed 4.08v open Ok, I just tried to bridge the diag plug to get some error codes and now the issue has vanished! Maybe the ECU was stuck in a limp mode and that reset it. Just took her for a squirt and its 100% again.

Hey guys, After leaving the skyline in storage for about half a year I have been trying to get it running happily again but I've run into a few issues. When started, the car idles fine. When the throttle is increased it won't climb any higher than 2k and then a loud popping sound is heard coming from the pod filter, like the car is back firing. The popping occurs roughly every 5 seconds and is quite loud. When the throttle is blipped it will rev freely all the way to redline but it will only rev to 2k when the throttle is opening incrementally. I changed the fuel, fuel filter, spark plugs thinking it was air/fuel related but the issue remains. The car has no smoke emitting from the exhaust or anywhere in the engine bay. I read a few similar issues on the forums that point to the AFM but the powerfc shows increasing voltage from the AFM as throttle is increased. The AFM was previously relocated to after the cooler if that makes a difference. Car has: PowerFC, 4" pod to HKS 2835, cooler to z32 AFM, nismo fuel pump, nismo 720cc injectors, splitfire coils. The battery has been disconnected for the duration of storage too, so is it possible that tune has been wiped from the ECU? Any other ideas what the issue could be and how to fix it? I just want to get it drivable so I can drop it off at chasers and get it 100% again.

Blue 32 next to me at The Settlement. Love the colour and the CF lip!

If anyone is interested in me running their drivers in b-spec remote races, shoot me a PM. I'm trying to get back into the game but I only have 1 friend who plays GT5 and has any online drivers available.

Spotted you too

0534_001.pdf

I'm very interested mate, if you can supply pictures. Where abouts in melbourne are you located?

r33 s2 hks 2835 pro s 3" exhaust from dump unknown catco cat nismo 740cc yellowjacket coils bcpr7es plugs z32 afm relocated to cold pipe 4" pod to turbo powerfc bp98 china cooler koyorad nismo fuel pump 240rwkw at 19psi drops to 16psi something is restricting making anymore power, but happy with 240 for now will post dyno sheet later

When I had those same mods as you listed (except replace EBC with a manual boost tee on 12psi), I made 192rwkw As for a front mount, never had any problems with a china model from ebay but I'd recommend a turn flow cooler so you don't have to cut a hole for the cold pipe. Should save some hassle if you get pinged and need a RWC. PowerFC seem to go for anywhere from $1000-$1500, add $700 on that for a tune.

I mentioned that, and asked why would they supply a suction pipe that could cause issues. He replied with, HKS also sell shitty mushroom filters and the hectic ssqv

Sorry, you're right. It was something else that he tried to explain to me, but I didn't understand. Something about returning to idle after load could cause stalling. Anyways, I called him back to question whether is was totally necessary. He convinced me I should do it anyway. Dr Drift comes highly praised from friend and here, I decided to trust his judgment.

Found it. It keeps to be the exact same question as mine

Thanks! Were you running that set up with the airbox? Could you post the link to the thread you are talking about? I'm not having any luck finding it.