RaseR

Indexing the plugs basically means aligning all 6 spark plug ground electrode gaps so that they face the in/ex valves (apparently facing the exhaust valve is preferable). This is supposed to increase power because the ground electrode is then oriented so as not to 'shield' the spark from the incoming fuel/air charge. Check this article for more: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/07...ugs/index.shtml

Hey CerealKiller, Yeah, tightening it up so far that it can't open will definitely nullify it!! Of course if you have a pod filter the std bov is quite loud too..... A friend and I tried this on his DR30 Skyline which has a adjustable Sheepdog BOV, we were able to prevent it from openning at all, such was the extent of the adjustment. Not necessarily good for the turbo (it has no std bov)....but so much quieter, b4 it sounded like a steam train venting every time it went off! Personally on my car I just went to a jap wrecker and got a piece of intake piping without the mount/hole for an atmo BOV and then sold the BOV!

Yeah I had the same thing - on 16psi the HKS would work alot harder. As far as limits of the std BOV - from what I've heard it's pretty variable....I thought mine was leaking at 12psi but have since discovered it isn't. I've heard they hold up to 17psi standard, but can't confirm it, some say more, some say less... There's a thread on SAU that describes a modification you can do to the BOV to make it hold a bit more boost at the cost of causing it open up a little slower: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...read.php?t=9634 .....Additionally, the Americans seem to love our std Skyline BOV as well - it's a Mitsubishi design and comes on a few models they have over there, a few things they've done to make them hold more boost: Crush it in a vice! http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/...4/crushBOV.html Physically drill out the small air leak inside the bov and vent it to the atmosphere for slow openning and holds boost up to 30psi, not bad!! http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html

Hey Munna, I bought my R32 with the same setup, standard recirculating BOV and an atmo BOV (non-adjustable HKS Super BOV on mine) in the same place as yours. The reason people set it up this way is because they want to run an atmo BOV for some reason (high boost application or they just like the sound), but also want the car to retain idle quality and not to run mega rich between gear changes because the standard BOV will still work to a certain degree. (The cars ECU expects a certain amount of air to be recirculated by the std BOV at these points). Didn't really hamper performance of the car, but it did hamper performance of the HKS BOV as it hardly even went off most of the time! So it really seemed like a pointless setup, I ended up removing it for that reason.

Hey guys, A technical question! I bought my R32t with a custom dual stage bleed valve setup, looks like it is the one sold by Promaz (see attached pics), initially it allowed 12psi on low boost and 16psi on high boost. Since then I've removed an atmo venting HKS BOV (now std BOV only) and changed to an Apexi Power Intake pod filter. After doing this I've found that high boost mode no longer limits boost, it basically allows the turbo to make infinite boost (not good!), low boost has increased slightly with the install of the new pod to 12.5-13psi but is otherwise unaffected. I've tried emailing Promaz asking for details on how the system works, but had no response, so I've drawn & attached a diagram (plz excuse crappiness!! ) of the setup to see if any of you have any idea what the problem might be and how it could be rectified. A brief description: .When I flick the in-car 'high boost' switch, I hear the solenoid click and using a multimeter I've confirmed it receives 12 volts at that point, so that seems fine. .The bleed component of the system is 1/8" Festo valve, I haven't wanted to mess with it too much just in case something goes completely wrong, but I've tried adjusting the bleed screw a few inward/outward turns and it hasn't affected low boost mode at all? .The Promaz website states 'the boost level is adjusted by the size of the bung and more accurately with the top mount adjusting screw'. Where would the 'bung' be in this setup?! I don't fully understand how this boost controller can provide two stages of boost higher then factory.....The car has an upgraded steel-wheels R32 turbo, I thought maybe it also has a custom actuator, but the boost drops back to 10psi at high RPM, suggesting this is not the case. Any help will be much appreciated! Thanks, Dave.

Hey guys, I'd definitely like to get my '32t dynoed - to see how much power it's making (not enough!! ) and also to check the timing etc...So count me in!

Thanks for the response Frosty and for that technical info Steve, that's exactly what I was looking for! A couple of additional questions though - if I was to use the secondary vacuum fitting as you described (ie. from a source in front of the throttle body), would you have any recommendations as to where I could fit the hose into the std intercooler piping? Would it be a case of having to drill/weld in a fitting? And at what stage/boost level would this 'vacuum assistance' be useful? Thanks!

Hey predator.....That's what I always thought, this is the first turbo car I've owned but a friend of mine who used to have an R32 reckons his never made the 'whooosh' to the same extent mine does (had same pod as me too)...Also I've driven his new (old!) car - DR30 Skyline turbo @12psi with atmo bov and pod filter and all I heard was engine revving + turbo spool, no whooshing...so nothing at all like mine, this is what makes me assume the BOV may be leaking.

Hey all, As per the title, I'm looking for opinions on the GReddy Type S BOV as I'm looking to upgrade from the std R32 BOV to an adjustable recirculating BOV that fits the stock location and I can set to open fully at higher boost (I run 12 & 16psi) as I suspect the std one is leaking. Basically I get an annoying leaking 'whoooshing' sound through my pod filter when I'm accelerating or even just using light throttle to maintain 100ks cruise...I've attempted blocking the small hole next to the piston in the std BOV (as per the associated thread on SAU) but this only helped marginally. Anyone had similar experiences with the std BOV? Also, I noticed the GReddy Type S BOV has two fittings for vacuum source, as per my attached pic.....I read that the bottom one is only used in some installations, is this also true for Skylines? I want to retain a fairly stock look (to avoid cop attention!!) so it'd be ideal if all vacuum fittings had connected hoses! Any opinions, experiences or skyline specific install info for the Type S BOV would be appreciated! thanx!

Just adding - I had King Springs in my '32 GTS-t on KYB shocks, the ride was fairly hard but not bone jarring.....I can verify that they are not much harder then the std springs as I've swapped them due to cops deciding that my middle muffler being 1cm too low was worthy of a defect (good old Victoria). Additionally, the handling is not much different (shocks seem quite stiff) but the car used to look heaps better then it does now which sucks! Coilover time I guess....

ScarifieR, I read just recently on SAU that the Nissan oil is just some mineral based stuff they resell, so why would it be better then a fully synthetic oil like Shell Helix Ultra? I'd say my 'lines oil pressure wierdness has more to do with a dodgy oil pressure sender then anything else.

Hey all, I run a Ryco filter with Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 in my R32 'line and I find my oil pressure sits around 4 just about all the time.....When I first start the car it sits on 2 or so but the sender seems to be very slow to update (typical R32 skyline oil pressure sender!!) as sometimes it takes a while to rise to 4 after idling.

Hey, I also don't have aftermarket temp gauge, but the stock one on my R32 sits dead on half once warmed up regardless of the ambient temperature, and the car still has the bonnet heatshield. It doesn't have the radiator fan shroud though as I have a single electric thermo fan setup as opposed to the standard clutch driven thing.

Hey, thought I'd add a recent experience I had to this thread - I got defected for being too low last Friday, the whole car cleared the 100mm limit except for the middle muffler which was 10mm too low, so the police can be awfully strict/pedantic when they want to be, a good warning for ppl who are thinking of lowering. Meanwhile I'm having the std springs refitted (read: tractor stylez) as my exhaust is 3.5" and there is no possibility of increasing the clearance without re-engineering the whole zorst, arrggh! Ahhh well, some good will come out of it....always wanted to get height adj. coilovers!! Now I've got an excuse to get them even quicker!! Dave.

LOL!! Scott - u and a few others by the looks of it! They're MINE, damn it!! cya, Dave.

Hey funkymonkey....Thanks mate! Actually you'd be surprised - those rims cost around the same as Volks, Longchamp XR-Vs go for around 60,000 yen each!! which is around $3,000 AUD for a set of 4 without tyres..and that doesn't include getting them to Australia!

Hey Rezz, thanx mate!! Those wheels were one huge factor in persuading me to buy that car! But yeah I totally agree - not many really nice wheels sold in Australia....Most of the time they are either elcheapo HSV imitations or 'fully sik' chrome stylez. Very few decent rims with any dish on 'em either...damn it, when will they learn!? LOL - this being said, there are probably heaps I don't know about!

Eddie - pm sent...but I may as well ask here as well - Do you have an R32 driver side window/door seal?

Hey, this is definitely an issue of personal taste, but I don't reckon fully chrome wheels suit at all...a little chrome (as in the rim outer) looks cool but any more doesn't work for me. As for rim design - I reckon 5 spoke wheels, standard or aftermarket really suit the R32. Here's the wheels I have on my '32: They are 17" Longchamp XR-V, some obscure Japanese performance brand. Mine have gunmetal inners with chrome outer rim...looks really nice on my gunmetal 'line! Oh yeah, wide rims look great - make sure your rear rims are deep dish, ya gotsta have dish!! Trust me it looks crazy! Here's a pic of the rims on my car: http://members.optusnet.com.au/~isf22/R32_2.jpg cya!

bump, still looking 4 one!

Hey guys, Thought all you DR30 owners might like this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...&category=32063 It's a genuine Nissan DR30 (Ironmask model) 28 page brochure up for auction on ebay, quite pricey! But it'd be incredibly rare I'd imagine. cya!

Hey, I'm looking to buy a drivers side window/door seal for an R32 (the one that runs along the window from the a-pillar to the b-pillar). I just need the seal, not the bracket as my seal is torn and stuffed so I'm looking for one in excellent condition, anybody able to help? Thanks, Dave.

LOL - ScarifieR, I've only owned the car myself just over 3 months, so 6,000ks in three months! Sound a bit more like it?! The bloke who owned it b4 me only drove it 5,000 in one year, it spent most of that time sitting in the garage!! unwritten law - I agree about being able to get a great deal if you buy privately, I looked for over 9 months for the right R32 and did heaps of research (how to tell duds etc), I almost bought another one for cheaper but it sold b4 I could get my hands on it, luckily I found the one I bought on the very weekend my previous car sold....nice transition that was!

Hey - I bought my '92 R32 GTS-t Type M in late August for $17k...I'm the third Australian owner, however the previous owner barely drove the car in the time he owned it, the first Australian owner was a Japanese engineer who imported it stock standard and performed all the modifications himself. It came with a fair bit of stuff, 17" Jap Longchamp alloys, lowered suspension, steel wheel turbo, 3.5" cat back exhaust, dual stage bleed valve, HKS pod & bov, sony stereo/speakers, 70,000ks on the clock. The interior is in perfect condition, the engine looks almost new and the paint is still fairly good, I've driven around 6,000ks so far and have had no trouble at all (touch wood!) So I reckon you definitely get what you pay for as I looked at many 14k R32 Skylines, all were in far shabbier condition then mine and came with heaps less, though I'm sure there are some bargains to be had out there.

Hey benny, Found the Nissan Midnight Purple paint code 4 ya DR30: LN1 Sound right? Of course this is assuming that yours is the same as the 180SX midnight purple, because that's where I got the code from! cya!