The Max

Wait. You mean the power source for some of your aftermarket audio components is being drawn from the lighting circuit? Nothing should be intercepting your taillights. They should be left alone and a more suitable power source should be obtained, preferably from the head unit's source instead.

You'll need an OBD scan tool to reveal the code so that you know what's upsetting it. If you don't have access to one, then you'll need to take it to a mechanic.

Still hunting down the taillights issue?

Please pay attention to what we're telling you. Start looking from your taillights onward. That means looking in your boot space. Stop persisting with your dash and fuseboxes.

The installer buggered up something in your boot then. As previously suggested, take your boot apart and work your way from the lights on.

Where was the amp installed? In the boot?

Depends on where you're driving around, I guess. Have you ever taken a look at yours? After 50,000km (22,000 of which were in Japan), mine was black. Good thing I had a couple of Fram cabin filters spare. It's easy to see if it needs changing. You just need to pop out your glovebox to get in there and check if it just needs a bit of tapping out or if it's too far gone and needs to be binned. But yes, the stench was a vital clue.

I truly hope you're joking right now.

Good to know. Cheers mate.

Ah, so you're just being suffocated like a bear hug across the chest. Well, as Nick has made clear, it's a safety feature. Take a deep breath before you decide to do a skid.

You're right and that is what I was looking for, given the products were seemingly a copy and paste from the Megan site but still, not much in there. Love my Megan Racing muffler. Just the right note without taking away from the vehicle's elegance.

Thanks for the heads up but I'm not seeing much in there for V36 Skylines. Have Megan Racing reduced their product line in recent times or something?

Chains are better but not perfect. They can still stretch. You're not changing the belt all the time. You're changing it every 100,000kms. That's not such a big deal, even if it does take all day in your driveway.

There's nothing convoluted in this thread and there are only 17 pages to read through. I'll give you the summary: V36 is a complicated beast compared to the re-programming of the V35 systems. With V36, entire head units get swapped out and rewired to suit the JDM pinouts, etc. However, it isn't without further complications, such as losing the functionality of the side-mirror camera. After reading through all the workshop manual information and even hacking away at the hard drive of one, I figured it's too much of a ballache and I don't really need much from it beyond my audio and bluetooth phone connectivity. I've built an in-car computer based on a Gigabyte NUC that I'll probably get to installing next month, which will manage my media player and GPS, so that will solve the navigation issue. Leaving it in Japanese actually is quite novel for me and my girlfriend giggles every time it reminds me at night that I should not drink and drive. Therefore, my preferred solution is to leave it as it is, augment it with whatever DSPs, amps and computers you see fit, and refer to the sticky thread in this forum:V36 Skyline Japanese Translation Document (Work In Progress The dude who wrote that went to great lengths to guide you through the Japanese menus and there are more posts in there about quirks that have been discovered which can help you to resolve if you also happen to come upon them.

I'm sensing a hook, with a line and a sinker here.

Seriously? If you like your car, you service it every 10,000km. If you love your car, then it's every 5,000km.

But you did question their quality.

For starters, T3 aren't their top-of-the-line series of disc. Secondly, surface rust is meaningless on these things. Drive around the block and you'll have them nice and shiny after a few stops. I left my OEM rotors out in the rain the day I replaced them with the T3s and the next morning, they also had surface rust. You cannot judge a book by its cover and equally, you cannot judge the quality of a disc by a little surface rust. DBA have built a solid reputation for their discs and if this was any indication of a quality issue, you can be sure they wouldn't be selling as much as they currently do. Thirdly, nothing wrong with the appearance of slotted rotors and if nothing else, it does actually help with your braking performance.

You're probably looking at the wrong catalogue then. Also, it's a bit of a needle in a haystack, where I found the part numbers by comparing the actual dimensions I found in the G37 workshop manual.

I have the DBA 42315S rear discs on my 2009 SP coupe. If you don't want to go slotted, I would still recommend the T3 (aka 4000) series for the spirited driver. In which case, the DBA part number is 42315.

Mine prefers methanol with a dash of Tabasco sauce.

Nice! Could be handy for parking up close to a wall or something. Anyway, if the dude who installed it hasn't implemented a neat little switch in the cabin, probably just worth getting in behind the bumper bar and disconnecting the power connector going into it.

You're right about the short-medium term. At worst, perhaps blocked injectors over time because of the lack of reasonable cleaning additives in the fuel. But now that you know better, hopefully you've made the switch to 98 octane.

You are definitely suffering a loss in performance because the ECU is retarding the timing to prevent knocking. How are you so sure that you're not? The butt-dyno is not an indication. Also, regular servicing doesn't mean you're preventing the effects of pre-ignition detonation from turning your cylinder bores egg-shaped prematurely. Unless you pull the engine apart, you won't know. The point is, you know Nissan specify a high octane fuel. So why are you going against their instructions by using such a low octane fuel in the first place?

...and my apologies. I missed the "V" in VQ37VHR. :P