Shinrai

I currently have a 1998 R33 GT-R V-Spec (Series III) with some minor modifications... - Haltech Platinum Pro ECU - HKS Priest Exhaust - Trust 105mm Front Mount Intercooler - Greddy Profec B Spec II Boost Controller - Slotted Rotors/Project Mu Brakepads - Other minor things This was good for 222awkw (rwkw would be slightly more but I didn't dyno that). I have only owned the car for 3 months and I personally had the ECU fitted along with the dyno tune and some other bits. However, the usual story... I have quickly grown used to the power. More power needed! I have been doing some research and I feel that I should be able to reach 320awkw with stock internals. These are the proposed mods... - HKS 2530 turbos - Tomei Pon Cams and Adjustable Cam Gears - Tomei Fuel Pump - Nismo 600cc Injectors - Nismo GTR AFM's - HKS Stainless Dump Pipes A couple things of concern are the injectors and the AFM's. I initially planned to go with 700cc injectors to allow for future upgrades but I was advised to go with 600cc due to my power goals and the fact that they are a straight fit. What do you guys think? What sort of power are 600cc injectors good for (in case I want to add more later)? Should I just go for the 700cc straight up? In regards to the AFM's, I was informed that the Nismo GTR AFM's offer better airflow (and a direct fit) than the Z32 version. Is this the best way to go? Any other comments or advice on the above, please feel free to do so.

Yes, I know it's only 1psi more but that's still 7% more boost. I was just thinking if it was easy to do, it might mildly satisfy my hunger for more power over the next month or two while I plan out/save up for the power upgrade. I'm getting a minor service done soon, I might just get them to look into it for me.

Didn't think of that... I was thinking that if I am going to upgrade turbo's soon, it wouldn't bother me if the standard turbo's died but I definitely don't want my engine going with it. I think I might just leave it as is for now. I might just get the shop to have a look at it to determine if the power has dropped or not... I will give it a minor service soon anyway.

I have a R33 GT-R with a Greddy Profec B Spec II Boost Controller installed and I was wondering if anyone could help me to understand the settings. I had my car dyno tuned and the boost controller set for 14 psi in high mode and 12 psi in low mode on the standard turbos. I initially didn't want to set the boost too high as I wanted to make sure that the turbo's would last. However, I have decided on a turbo upgrade in the new year as I really want more power (HKS 2530's or HKS GTRS's). I have read here that someone has the standard turbo's running at 15 psi... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=1773956 Is this safe? Is it safe to push them any harder? It was also mentioned in this post that after a month or two power dropped. I also feel this but I am not sure if I am just used to the extra power now. About 10 weeks ago I had a Haltech Platinum Pro ECU installed and it was dyno tuned at the same time. When I first got it back, it felt like a rocket. Now it still feels quick but it just doesn't give me the same experience. Keeping in mind that I have only owned this car for 3 months, it is definitely possible that I have simply grown used to the power. Any way to check for this or anything else that could be stopping the car from producing optimum power? I would like to know how to set my boost to 15 psi without the help of a tuning workshop. Is this possible without any extra equipment like a dyno? If so, could anyone explain the process?

Cool, thanks for the pics N1GTR. I am not too much a fan of chrome wheels anymore either. I liked them about 5 years ago when they were in but now they seem a little dated. I prefer the stealth look. I don't mind the wheels on my car too much (they came with the car when I bought it) as they only have chrome on the outer dish section and the spokes are all black (as can be seen in the photo), but I may end up changing them later on. I am sure the R34 GTR wheels look hot on your car.

Believe it or not, I just used an aerosol can. It is Plasti-kote Satin Super (purchased from Bunnings). I just took my time with it and prepared it with primer. I then tried to remember what I learnt when I was 16 years old when I did a short automotive painting course. I waited for a perfect day (sunny and no wind). I kept a steady distance and painted from left to right covering the whole bar before releasing the spray. I remember this was one of the key points to obtaining an even coat. Unlike, the natural instinct to use short bursts of spray that can leave an uneven look to the finish. At first, I was worried about using an aerosol can and was considering getting a professional 2 pack job done, but I didn't think the cost would be worth it, especially if it scratches again. I then figured, I will have a go at it myself and if I screw it up, I could always then take it to a paint shop. Looks like I don't need to. Although, I am sure that I couldn't have done the engine myself (as seen on previous page). I am very happy with the candy red colour. I think the next thing on the cards is a bigger power upgrade!

Bakes, I have to agree that engine bay looks immaculate. It's sexy and looks damn menacing! Do you have a build thread somewhere? Also, what power does that machine output? By the way, here's mine (I didn't know whether I should post it as I already made a thread with some pics but I might as well post one here also)...

Thanks Bud! Do you have any pics? I would love to see them.

It's been a while since I posted here but I thought I would finally report back with my finished pics. I think the lower lip turned out quite well (considering I did it myself). By the way, I am referring the lower black section that is attached to the front bumper, not the whole front bumper (I am sure most of you knew this but I just wanted to be clear). First I will post a pic of before the painting that shows the scratches. They actually were more noticable in person (well at least to my overly pedantic nature ) Here is the pic before I painted the lower lip. There were quite a few scratches underneath and to the front. There were also a few on the sides. Before... Now, here are the pics after my paint work. It's all nice and shiny now! It actually turned with more gloss than I expected for satin paint but I am very happy with the result. After...

I can't seem to get onto your website. I am interested in some information on the carbon fibre lower lip for a Series III R33 GT-R. Sniper Racing has referred you as a distributor.

I decided to go with some satin paint as that a very slight sheen, which I am hoping is quite close to the original look. I wouldn't mind if it ends up being slightly glossier than the original.

I was thinking the same thing. I overlooked checking if the paint was gloss or matte before I bought it... I also agree on the colour coded lip... If I do repaint it and happen to put a little scratch on it in the future, if it was white it would show any (even minor) scratches a lot more. Because of this, I will be sticking with black.

Yes, I could have but I was already spending more than I should. Especially with the Haltech Platinum Pro ECU install and tune. In regards to the lower lip painting. I actually have some gloss paint but I am in two minds about this. As the original finish is matt, I am wondering if I should use matt paint instead. What do you think? Or anyone elses opinion? (Recap, I am painting the lower lip section on the front bar. This is made of black plastic and some scratches from over the years)

Maybe you misunderstood... I installed a Haltech Platinum Pro ECU and had it dyno tuned. Initially they said it would increase it up to that power figure. Maybe they thought it had more power in stock form. Prior to the tune it hit about 190kw on all wheels, so the ECU and tune definitely made a difference. However, as I said... I thought it was too optimistic to hit 260kw and I knew that it wouldn't output that sort of power in current form. Honestly though, I think their dyno reading is a little low, especially at 14psi, HKS exhaust, Trust 105mm intercooler (I guess that has no influence being stationary on a dyno), Haltech ECU etc. I was hoping for 230kw (240kw if I was very lucky) mark. I think that I need to eventually put it on another dyno to test out the variance in the way different shops calibrate things. I didn't actually pay anything for them to be done as I spent approx. $5,000 for major service, slotted front rotor upgrades, Project MU brake pads, Haltech Platinum Pro ECU installed and dyno tuned etc. etc. so I managed to get the cover painting thrown in but I am quite sure the $250 is for you to hand the covers to them and they hand them back when completed. Here is another pic of the engine in the sunlight...

Thanks for the clarification... By the way, my next job scheduled is to repaint the lower lip (black plastic) on the front bar to get rid of the scrape scratches. I added a couple when I first bought it. I'm confident now that I have a guage on how low the front is to avoid further scratches. I have plastic primer and black paint ready to go... Just waiting for my next couple days off.

Yes, even I thought it was too ambitious and I told him that when I handed over my car. Maybe he was having a "seniors" moment and/or thinking flywheel figures or something... LOL! It actually ended up making 222kw (on all wheels). Nowhere near the quoted power figure. However, it is a very smooth tune with a very responsive and constant power curve. In regards to painting my engine bay red. I think it actually turned out really well... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...in-t286849.html

Yes, it was dyno tuned. However, the car only has some minor modifications. Part of the work done at PowerTune was to install a Haltech Platinum Pro ECU so there is plenty of room for power upgrades in the future. It also received a major service and brake upgrades (slotted front rotors with Project Mu Type MS brake pads). It is now in perfect base form ready for whatever I decide to do with it. On stock turbo's the car hit 222kw (on all wheels). I was a little disappointed as they initially said more would be achieved. The tuner said 260kw could be achieved when I handed the car over to them. I thought this was very optimistic and I was hoping for the 230kw - 240kw mark. I have a feeling if this car was tested on another dyno, it would quite possibly hit that kind of figure as it certainly feels like it is pulling harder than the 222kw achieved. I guess there are so many variables that can influence a dyno reading. Obviously, much more can easily be achieved later when I decide to invest more into some bigger turbo's and whatever else follows. On a plus note, I am very happy with the recent tune as it is very smooth to drive and power is instantly there whenever you need it and doesn't seem to suddenly drop off either (like my old R33 GTS-t used to do). As the car is in very good condition, part of me wants to enjoy it in near stock form for a little while. It is a 1998 series III V-Spec so there weren't too many of these made. However, I am sure I will hunger more power in the near future. Here's a pic to show the condition of the car... I actually was under the impression that it was a triple plate clutch (that's what was listed on the spec sheet)... Could be an innocent error. Yes, the clutch can be a little tricky but I enjoy it very much.

Heat resistant 2 pack paint. I don't think you would be able to obtain a candy red colour with powdercoating... Correct me if I am wrong... ?

I recently had my car in Power Tune @ Fairfield, Sydney and they offered an exchange program for painting engine covers. I just wanted to share my before and after shots here. I opted for a candy red colour as I wanted something similar to the R34 engine (my car is a R33 GT-R) but different enough to make it more unique. I also fixed the R34 ornamental badge to the valley cover. Before... After... If you are interested in getting this done, the price is $250 for the top 3 covers. You will need to ask them if the timing belt covers are extra as I got a package price with a bit of other work done. Here's a link to the painting service on their website... http://www.powertune.com.au/rb26parts.html

Imagine the woody you would have driving that with the new girl next to you!

I think it's safe to disagree with that. From the original post it is clearly obvious that SS8_Gohan would not be happy with approx. 190-210 awkw in stock form (as we know 206 awkw is the listed factory specification but too many variables make that an entirely accurate guide). However, the part I do agree with is get the GT-R!! A few years back (about 7 or 8 years I think?) I had a R33 GTS-t and while it was fun at the time, especially for my age (I was about 24)... There is no comparison to the GT-R I now own. Both vehicles had/have minor mods. I now feel that I own a car that I would be willing to dump a bit of cash into to bring out the best in it. My thoughts are I should be very happy with about 350 awkw (it will be done in stages of course). What also should be considered is that GT-R's were made to handle this sort of power (well for the most part)... AWD, ALSD, Brembo brakes, suspension/shocks (even more so in V-spec form), Recaro seats, etc. etc. So in short, a GT-R just feels like so much more car to drive. It also just feels so good to know you are driving the real deal. I only wish I could come across someone in one of those GTS-t's made to look like a GT-R that I used to come across all the time in my GTS-t. I want to see them squirm with embarrasment as they know they are now driving a fake GT-R, it's not even a GTS-t anymore... I consider it a fake GT-R! LOL! Very true! I bought my GTS-t for about $20,000, spent about another $8,000 on it and then sold it for $17,000 2 1/2 years later. Unless you plan to keep the vehicle and enjoy the mods, consider them money spent that you will never get back. In some cases they may even work against the value of the car. This is something that I will always keep in mind when adding power upgrades to my car... 1) Will it affect value of the car? 2) Is the mod reversible if it ever came time to sell the car (a lot of buyers prefer things stock)?

I went and had a look at one at Autostyle at Beverly Hills and it was in immaculate condition. From what I have seen from Autostyle in the past is that their cars are priced a little above normal but the condition of the vehicles are usually exceptional. The asking price was around $85k - $90k from memory.

I walked into Nissan at Campbelltown NSW today as they are one of the two dealers in NSW allocated the privilege of selling R35 GT-R's... Oh how I was in love! BUT!!! What astounded me was the asking price. The Salesman informed me that the RRP is $180,000. I thought they were going to be around the $150,000 mark new in Aus spec form. Anyway, this got me curious as to what the other models sold for new. I realise that they were only available from Japan new but I am still interested to know what the new price would have been with the currency conversion. I think from memory that the R34 GT-R was about $140,000 landed and complied brand new (correct me if I am wrong). Does anybody know what a R32 and a R33 would have been brand new to import?

You really do need to include photos to entice prospective buyers.

It is interesting that the fastest time mentioned here for the R33 GT-R is quicker than the fastest R32 GT-R time. I would have thought with the slightly lighter body weight that the R32 would have had the advantage. Either way they are all great cars. By the way, I'd love a R35... Just might need to wait a few years for them to come down in price.