lowbro

After reading for countless hours through the 'R33 Rb30 Conversion' thread, the sensors you use determine the loom/ecu you should use! Okay the above makes perfect sense, best I go with an r33/34gtr loom/harness (will get a new one made up for piece of mind) I still have to source all the sensors so will be looking for rb26 items and then source a 33gtr ecu/aftermarket item to suit (34gtr ecu is not really an option because of the builtin 'Nissan Anti Theft System' which will never run correctly - pitty this would have been ideal otherwise) I can now go-ahead with the purchase of a new r33gtr CAS unit from 'raw-brokerage' for dirt cheap! If I tackle the install myself I will definetly be writing up a full 'how-to' for 34gtt owners wanting to do this conversion. Can anyone offer guideance on the below: 1. Can anyone offer guidance around keeping the TCS/ABS in the 34GTT when using the gtr ecu? 2. Should I stick with using the 25 balancer and ancillaries?

Wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction, have been searching for definitive answers but no luck! I have an rb2630 long engine together and I am trying to do as much of the labour myself to save coin, so right now I am trying to get all my ducks in a row before I proceed any further as don't want to purchase items I do not need or go about it all the wrong way. I guess firstly and foremost, what are the chances of this motor change being passed in QLD going into an R34 GTT? Balancer - Should I keep with a 25 balancer to make use of all the neo parts? (alternator/power steering etc) Motor Loom - What would be the best way of wiring this motor in the car (r34gtr harness/loom? or modify the neo one to suit?) Motor Sensors - Do these items have to match the engine loom/ or ecu being used? I read the 34 gtr ecu is a no go, do I need to swap out the ecu to an earlier gtr one or will the neo just work? Anyone know what year a 05u 2 gtr head is from, raw brokerage have new CAS's for 32/33gtr and good pricing, I read the 34gtr was different to the previous years. I have been in touch with some specialist wiring services on the net to make up new gtr looms if this is the best way to go (good prices too, but they not been willing to answer all my questions), but have since been advised that my abs/tcs would be hard to keep? Would this be easy to rewire to suit or is this the big decider to modify the neo loom? I know, a lot of questions here, but want to make sure I go the best direction forward, even if painful since I have committed to this now! Cheers All.

PM me if you want to part out the intake plenum and rocker covers?

I had to strip some parts from the 26/30 today and use the aluminium bracket from the 26 head gear that the CAS is mounted to , on the 34 it was fractured and only being held in place by the CAS bolts to the timing cover, now the CAS has no play whatsoever all fixed, but the knocking is now very clear and coming from the front of the exhaust cam shaft, so perhaps the same issue you had IPLEN and it has been worn away, I guess it is a pretty inexpesive exercise to swap a factory exhaust cam in there and see if the problem goes away, it should not cause any dramas if I leave it as is, but I want rid of that knock noise that is only there on idle, when on accelaration it goes away and then comes back on decel to idle, very noticeable at idle. Check out the fractured bracket, it is just cast aluminium not very strong, and I am not sure what caused it to break just recently either!

Right O! I have finally located the the source of the issue, the knocking sound is the CAS arm that enters into the exhaust cam shaft area, it appears to have too much play/wobble in there and the effect is a vibration/knock sound inside the chamber, this has resulted in what so sounded like rod knock resonating from the block up! So on to resolve the issue - replace the CAS unit (expensive as all hell from Nissan) or further diagnosis and pull off the rockers and inspect the cam shaft and barrell area? I wouldn't expect this part to be the issue/worn out as it is forged steel. Anyone out there know if this is a common worn out part issue for a CAS unit or has come across? Cheers All.

Turbo piping Sold!

Hey Brody, Feel free to pop round and have a listen to your car through the pool noodle, it will locate the problem straight away if it is the same as mine You know where to find me!!

Nah not at all eh JEZ, that engine is stock and so healthy across all cycls that is why I was not worried about the high kms, was looking to just put a bolton package in there as it is the weekend/cruiser, just bad luck I guess or previous history has now caught up. Still deciding if a RIPs 30 bottom end delivered would work out better than rebuilding the current patrol 3ltr bottom end, would just need a better oil pump and be machined/bored/honed to accept forgies. RIPs stay with stock internals and do some crank work, but they are good for 600 ponies.

Yep Motul all the way from now on! I am lucky enough to have another nice 34 to drive atm, will be looking to pull down my 26/30 proj engine that has been sitting for almost a year now and try and do all the work myself/save coin, bottom end needs a rebuild, does not look to be too hard a job once the machining has been done, and there is so much info round here I am sure I can do it with patience and learn along the way.

Last change penrite 10's racing 10w-40 full synthetic + 1/2 qrt of lucas, before that it was motul 300v 145,000kms btw on the clock, compression is very healthy/engine is still very strong and responsive. Hoping it is timing belt, loose/slapping/timing bearing that needs replacement, but after listening to a load of youtube vids I am thinking rod knock

Recently my 25det neo engine in the 34 has decided to make a very healthy knock noise! In the attached video clip I have 1st put a pool noodle to the timing cover which has enhanced the sound, then 2nd onto the exhaust side rocker cover which sounds like normal tappet noise, so the knocking is either coming from the belt area or worse it is resonating up through the block. Any ideas? Big-end bearing/timing belt bearing/worse? Cheers All. timing cover then rocker cover.wmv

Hope it don't go any further for your sakes Grave Digger, legals cost big $$$ when kids are involved mate, my ex has cost me a 26/30 build this year so far!!!! That was money meant for you to build my engine ERD Dan!! Ex's should just be happy they are Ex's and get on with their lives, I've got my son and my cars so I am happy!!!!!

I stumbled upon using the Mothers black trim restorer product a long time back, used for trims/plastics etc, it does a great job on my 34 lights, clean as and no oxidation has returned!

JJ Carbon Pod Box - Modified to fit $120 <SOLD>

^Bump^ Still for Sale!

^Bump^ All parts still for sale!

Check out CES Racing www.cesracing.com.au/ if you are in Brisbane and enquire about having them make you up a custom exhaust system with headers for you na skyline, you will not be disapointed with the quality that these guys produce and the hp gain you will get from a full extractor/header system through a 2.5" system. Will cost you some $$$ but trust me you will never regret it. If you want cheap then the above mentioned systems will do okay!

For Sale: Much loved mature owner's clean/straight 1999 R34 GTT - rare midnight blue, 5 Speed Manual Turbo Sedan (rego till 11/12) 105,000kms - engine/factory turbo runs very strong, great compression and has been meticulously serviced every 3,000kms with high grade items. Asking price $17,500 *Willing to negotiate a cheaper price without sound system! *May be interested in swaps for 91-93 R32 clean car with low kms +cash my way! *Interested buyers can check car with my ecu-consult cable/software if need be. Located in South Brisbane for viewings! Engine Bay: Chromed engine rockers/plenum to intakes/silicone hosing Nissan rocker cover gaskets/Nissan heater and hose kit replaced+full professional cooling system clean! Aircon system drain and clean +regass done recently Jan 12!! Itanium Spark Plugs have been installed and SuperSpark Coil Packs Blitz CS Return Flow FMIC Aftermarket JJ 3 core Radiator/Blitz Cap/blue silcone water hoses New Factory Nissan Fan Shroud & under engine protection tray installed. New Factory Nissan TPS/TCS Sensors & O2 Sensor installed ($1000+) Many geniune factory parts have been replaced to keep the car in great condition. HKS 245mm Mushroom intake Top Brand Remote Alarm system - 3 point immobilisation New Battery and battery strap from Nissan In Cabin: The interior is in excellent condition, well cared for! Painted centre console Gunmetal HDi Boost Controller (Set at 10psi) HDi Vacuum guage Brooke Boost Guage Blitz Turbo Timer Sony 7" DVD LCD Touch screen Soundstream speaker system throughout doors/rear tray/front tweets etc Big $$$ Crossfire 320w Amp Running Gear/Suspension: Ground up rebuild of the under of the car has been completed! Car serviced with high grade oils every 3,000kms, gearbox serviced at 95,000km using Motul. Low Km R34 Torsen Diff was just installed June 2012, very smooth & redline oil used Nismo gearbox mount installed Rear Wheel Bearings redone Tein SS Coilovers - Rears rebuilt 6mths ago Bendix pads - fronts just replaced in June 2012/rears are Bendix race pads as new (flushed brake system with dot3 when pads were installed recently) Adjustable whiteline bushings througout the vehicle front/rear (every bush has been done here) Shelby Sway bars front/rear blade adjustable type (the largest diameter 27/24mm) Driftworks HICAS Elimiator Kit installed Driftworks Solid Diff mount bushings installed to rear of cradle I refurbished/sandblasted/painted the rear cradle and installed new whiteline bushings (much stiffer than factory) Aftermarket Tie Rods installed up front Custom 3" turbo back stainless system (quality exhaust system not cheapy, perfect sound/note/quiet) Rolling on 18x9's +30 Rota Boost wheels with 245/18/45's federals all round Factory tinted windows all round Fronts/Rears/Rear window New front windscreen replaced in April 12 with tinted sunvisor Paint work has been well cared for, the car is polished every 6 weeks/clay bar'd before polishing etc, car has always been garaged sinced I have owned. (NOTE: the clear coat on the rear tail lights at the top has flaked a little, hard to notice with the colour of the car) an easy repair! All parts have been installed over past 12mths so you have piece of mind they are like new. All factory faults have been eliminated, suspension is all new/uprated, just get in drive and enjoy, car never skips a beat and is a head turner for a sedan! RACQ checks welcome! No joy riders, serious buyers only please! TXT or call on 0435029573, I am available in the evenings during the week to take calls (please txt during business hours and I will respond), weekends are fine to call. Cheers Simon!

^Bump^

SOLD!!!

SOLD!! Thread can be closed!

Rocker covers are in perfect condition, just need to be hit with degrease and clean em up!

Bump!

What is simple about a Petrol 4X4 NISSAN PATROL with fuel injection and a turbo system, infact it is way more sphisticated than a 1998 skyline in every way/form.

This is my tried and tested method on both my current 34s, and has been on all of my vehicles for 15 years and mates cars, never had a drama! Cover your intake, jam an old rag in there or tie a plastic bag over the pod filter, lay some old towels over the rocker cover/valley top of the engine area just to be safe. (if no valley cover is fitted be extra careful to avoid water getting into the coilpack wells) same would apply to old carburator and dizzy setups! Buy 6-10 cans of degrease and a can of electrical conctact cleaner from autobarn/supercheap! Go hard and hit all the areas of the bay with the degrease, it will not matter if you spray the engine loom or any of the plugs as long as the key is not in the igntion ON position. Hit all the hard to get to areas like the fuel rail and injectors, the fuse box external connectors (these always get serious build up can take a few cans to move it all away) get right down/under the sides of the block areas (the drivers side is always more dirty than the passenger side) you can spray anywhere below the rocker covers really and it will not cause you any dramas, even spray the powersteerring box and plugs on the passenger side at the rear of the bay. You can hose down the engine bay as long as you have a controlled hose head and turn it to the jet position, just make sure that you give some distance between the parts you are spraying down and the water and don't constantly aim at the same place, just wave the water around the areas you want to hose off, dont use a high pressure water gun! (I do but am familar with this process) Just avoid spraying above the rocker cover/gaskets and you will be fine! Once done hosing down let the bay dry for a while and start wiping it down to remove the grease buildup that may not have come away (use a rag dipped in degrease for this), water cannot get in anywhere as there are gaskets and 0 rings which prevent this. To finish off make sure that all your plugs contacts are clean and water free, just unplug all connectors and give them a good squirt with the electrical contact cleaner, this is something that should be done anyway periodically. You should now have a gleaming engine bay and it will be nice to work on! Think of it like this, 4 wheel drive vehicles fitted with a snorkel can almost be submerged up to the bonnet and no water ever gets into the actual engine! The only reason a car would stall in this scenario is because the air intake has sucked in water!