lowbro

Set of 4 x standard shocks+springs for R34 25GT Sedan or other compatible models. No leaks great condition, need em gone to clear space, removed at 65,000km's Asking $100 +postage within Australia - pickup welcome Brisbane

BUMP! $130.00 thereabouts!

Yes they do - on order from Ex Japan!

Anyone out there know if diff/gearbox replacement drain plugs can be purchased through Nissan genuine parts? Got a couple a rounded ones and would luv em replaced! Cheers all

1999 R34 GTT - Side Mount Intercooler - Mint condition 70,000km's Asking $150 thereabouts! Pickup is Brisbane, postage is extra! PM if interested! Cheers

Hi Jeff, Just reading your topic: Do it right, do it once and be done with it if you plan to keep the beast! Source a non-hicas cradle from a 34 GT in good cond, sand blast and paint as new, buy new uprated cradle bushes $220 get em pressed, purchase new diff mounting bushes front/rear and get a new sleeve made for the rears to accommodate the new bushes or source an aftermarket one that already has the sleeve. Take a week off work, remove old cradle and diff end, re-do all your rear suspension bushes if not new already, clean down and paint all your arms etc. Put back together in the right position with pineapples and hey presto, your rear is like new again, but better than before no-hicas and will look great in nismo silver, or black! Then do the front after your back recovers from all the hard work! LoL! Just my 50cents worth and a good project to keep you busy!

My car is off to a diff specialist this afternoon for diagnosis, and I will let you know what they say for my problems. Locating an 34 sedan manual tailshaft has become an impossible task to change over from a 1 piece to a 2 piece again to eliminate or resolve my rumble/vibrations problems at 90km+

Jon, I should also mention that the worn out uni your friend has mentioned would be a lot of people's first diagnosis for this type problem. My 1 piece tail-shaft does not have a centre and both uni ends were recorded when balanced recently as being really good, so I reckon we can eliminate the tail-shaft altogether and move towards it being the diff for this one. This is definitely not a problem I can live with while I own my car, if yours gets as bad as mine you will start to hate driving at that speed.

Hey Jon, Welcome to my world, I have had the exact same issue for sometime now and it is getting so uncomfortable to go over 110+ Does yours really start to rumble/vibrate when on the gas at 100+ and then when you back off the gas it feels heaps worse? I reckon wlspn is onto something here, I had my 1 piece tail-shaft balanced not so long ago, hardly made a difference, I had a new LSD diff centre put in 2 wks ago, problem is still there, giving me the shits I tell ya, and has so far cost me some serious dollars. Would luv this one resolved, then I am happy to continue with other project mods.

Bearings supplied with the unit were installed, I bought it second hand, so not sure how good those bearings were, but only about 5000km of usage. If the bearings were pressed correctly the unit should be running correctly, it is only at the low rev range turning etc where the diff is really uncomfortable to drive and thumps and feels like it is going to lockup or blow. 3 point turns I try to really avoid. Have you had similair experiences with LSD, seen as we are hijacking his thread Lol!

Ever thought of re-newing all cradle bushes and diff bushes? You will need to get insert sleeves manufactured for the rear diff bushes as they are a 1 piece unit and are not sold as a replacement OEM part, but you can purchase the bushing at a pretty good price, I paid $150 for a diff mounting set, that's 4 x bushes and 2 inserts for the fronts. I had my front bushes replaced 2 weeks ago when the CUSCO went in, but my problem still exists and was there before that, could be the rear bushes but they still looked pretty good and were refitted? Would have been nice to renew them and have seen if the problem was still there. I would like to renew my cradle, or even purchase a new one and have new bushes in there with alloy inserts, I hear it makes such a difference to renew that whole back end set-up as over time the bushes wear out and cause all sorts of issues. Expensive I know but if you are to keep the car for a long time would be worth it in the end. Almost every bush under my R34 GTT has been renewed and so have the tie-rod ends etc, my car is smooth suspension wise and feels like new appart from the clunky diff and driveline problem ; ( Once this problem has been resolved my car will honestly drive like new, can't wait till that day happens!

Again, I am sometimes getting this in 3rd/4th gear when shifting up at lower revs and I belive it is diff/driveshaft/gearbox related as the changing of gear operation has an effect all the way to the diff before engaing the wheels through the axle shafts, so somewhere in the whole operation it is being hesitant and causing the grind as the gear is not properly engaging in time. I am no expert but this is how I see it all working together. I am going to have a talk with a drivetrain specialist here in Brisbane and see if it is possible to re-tune the whole drivetrain operation. I replaced my diff becuase it was so clunky, whinney and chattery and felt really loose in it's operation, but I am feeling the same type issues with a CUSCO 1.5 installed, so something along the train is causing a problem which affects all the components when working together. There could be to much play at the diff housing connection to the shaft also? I belive I have a back-lash problem as the driveline operation is too clunky and you feel the diff kind of jolt if you are not driving nice at low rev range, if I was to drive my car like a new toyota corolla, I believe the diff would blow, it can be that bad sometimes, makes driving hard as you have to put a lot of effort into making it run smooth, probably gona burn my clutch out soon also with riding it to compensate the driveline faults ; ) You had the best oil in the gbox, if it still happens with new fluid it is not fluid related. If your synchros were gone it would be very stubborn to engage the gear at any rev and it would crunch, but it is grinding, it sounds like it just about engaged but hesitated. This is my 2 cents worth from experience. I drove a 98 r34 coupe with 130,000 genuine km's on the clock had service history from Japan, the driveline felt like shit, the diff was awful much like mine before I changed, the whole setup was loose and felt horrid to drive, very clunky. I believe the components in these cars work very hard and need replacing at certain km usage, much like suspension. The cradle can also be at fault with these cars causing major dramas at the back-end and tramping which in effect goes all the way through the driveline. You do get used to driving these cars with a lot of foot work but they are never smooth. 4WD is a different kettle of fish altogether.

I have a Cusco 1.5MZ which was installed 2 wks ago as a replacement for my R34GTT OEM diff. I am experiencing simliar type problems when in low rev range 1st, 2nd gear, tight turns, I experience a thump from the diff end, feels like it is rolling over inside itself in the diff housing. I initially had Redline 75-90w shockproof lightweight oil in their one week ago, this weekend I changed to Royal Purple 85-140w with the additive, and I thought for the first hour of driving it felt so much better, until I did a tight turn and then the diff felt like it rolled over inside itself again and gave an almight thump sound. Now it does it more constatly. But when driving at speed it is silent and feels great and operates as it should. I am also getting a lot of hard clunking from my shaft at low rev range gear change engaging the diff, but it is a 1 piece and I am trying to change back to 2 piece. I am wondering if the whole drivetrain needs to be adjusted to make everything a lot tighter for normal operation. From my experience so far it is not your oil, it is your drive line that is the issue, prob needs to be tuned accordingly for correct operation if that is even possible. What are other people views on this?

Can anyone out there confirm if an R33 Manual Tail-Shaft is a direct fit for the R34 Manual Sedan? The R34 Coupe shaft appears to be 1 inch too short for the R34 4door.

Anyone out there have a 2 piece tail-shaft for an R34 GTT 4Dr they want to sell? Would be best if the item was located in Brisbane. Cheers!

Thank you everyone for your input on the wheels, I decided to purchase the ROTA Boost 18x9 +30's as the price was right for me! Still have to purchase tyres but they are online in NSW for $120 each for Federal 235/40/18's at the moment, so very cheap. Once wheels are on the car I will post up some pics to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...er-t311136.html

Bump! Still for Sale Quality Sub-box + 2x12" AudioPipe subs $300.00 R34 OEM Orange front-bar indicators+bulbs $40.00 R34 Rear bottom seat $60.00 R34 25GT OEM set of shocks $150.00 (will require new bump stops/boots from Pedders for $45-50) only travelled 60,000km's very good condition R34 6x OEM Coil Packs $150.00 All items are in Brisbane South

Just to clarify, I am after the trims that clip on at the top of the doors (exterior), see my old car for reference in red!

Hi Everyone, I am looking for the exterior-trims that clip on the outside of the door frames (where the middle of the door meets the window) They would have to be for a 4 door R34 Sedan. If anyone has these parts please PM me. Cheers

What items do you have for the R34 GTT - Looking for suspension components. Cheers

Hi All, Can someone advise if the Standard OEM Plenum used on the RB25DET engine in the R33 S1,S2 & R34 Neo are all totally different? Any help would be much appreciated.

Bump! Still for Sale Blitz BOV+RB25 Adapter $150.00 Quality Sub-box + 2x12" AudioPipe subs $350 ono R34 OEM Orange front-bar indicators+bulbs $40.00 ono R34 Rear bottom seat $60.00 R34 25GT OEM set of shocks $150.00 R34 6x OEM Coil Packs $200.00 ono

Hi All, R34 Sedan owners - It is near impossible to find/purchase new side-skirts for our cars (unless it is URAS) Correct me if I am wrong, but looking at the Nissan Altima, this is essentially an R34 with a different front/rear. Therefore I reckon side-skirts that are being manufactured to suit models 97-2004 in the 4 door model should fit the R34 Sedan. Anyone else had this thought or actually purchased and fitted them? There is not that big a variety of skirts, but at least there is a choice.

Hi Brett, Sent you a PM

R34 Smoked side indicators $25.00 (like new, not NISMO) SOLD!!