sweefu

I didn't smell either of my clutches when bedding them in, I wound out 2nd gear to redline in my S14 with about 70km on the clutch too.

Check out (hate having to suggest this) but Tyson's car parts page on Facebook, should be able to find an RB30 box on there pretty cheap.

In my last car (R31, RB30 engine, RB20DET box) I took my car drifting and was used the clutch as I normally would after a couple hundred KM of normal driving, no problems at all. I just did the same thing with my S14 (SR20 engine, RB25DET box) with no issues - it's all you need imo! First clutch was an Exedy sprung brass button with an upped (1350kg) clamp load job, S14 clutch is an Exedy Sports Organic (coppermix-ish one).

Have you tried changing the damper settings?

Does it still foul when the car is on the ground, or only when it's jacked up?

What was the idea behind running toe out on the rear?

Join a CAMS affiliated club (Such as SAUNSW), then send paperwork, pay money, receive licence.

I'll grab dimensions this afternoon I bought it from 999 Automotive.

^ $80? Anyone interested?

Oil cooler for sale, 19 row but very big (SD card in bottom left corner for size reference). New in the box, uses -10 fittings. $100

Don't cut a hydro into the stock rear brakes, the skyline hand brakes are great, just get that working right.

Great tip, thanks for the link. Do you recall what the cost of the bearing kit was?

I know this is a very old thread, but for the help of future searches I am going to link to the thread with the RB25DET gearbox bearing part numbers below. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/335298-rb25-gearbox-bearing-numbers/

I'd just run 235/40r18 all round.

Headlight covers look mint, were they from party cat?

I wouldn't cut a hydro into the rear brake line, it feels like absolute crap, and then you can't foot brake and hand brake at the same time. You have an internal drum handbrake which is very good, I'd work around that instead of cutting a hydro in.

Loooove the 57C, been looking for a set for ages, wrong sizes for me though Good luck with sale!

Depending on your suspension setup, I would try and stay away from a staggered setup and run the same size front / rear.

Has anyone got an rb25det manual gear stick?

More progress! Can you change the bushes to something adjustable or similar? How do you mod the subframe?

Hey guys, I've still got a box of spare RB25DET parts, they are all of an S2 R33. I have: Alternator Intake pipes OEM Coil packs OEM turbo manifold OEM dump pipe Coil pack cover Timing cover $50 for the box if anyone is interested. Cheers.

Sorry, compound will be medium or hard I think. I think the 16" will be fine, only a 10mm narrower tyre, but wanted to see if it would be better to just start with a 17" wheel and a 235 tyre off the bat.

Hey guys, I need some advice. I am going to start doing some track days for fun, maybe the NSW Super Sprint series next year. I have a set of 16" wheels which would be suitable to use, but I'd be restricted to a 225/45 or 225/50 r16 tyre size. Is this a disadvantage at all compared to using a 235/45r17 tyre? This would mean I would need to buy new wheels as well as tyres. The 16" tyres are generally a little bit cheaper too, in Kumho V70A or similar as discussed in this thread. Is it OK to stick with my 16" wheels and buy some tyres, or am I better moving to a 17" and bigger tyre from the start? Thanks very much. Edit: Car is S14 Silvia with stock engine/power. At best I will have coilovers, that's about all.

+15 to +20 in a 9.5 will be fine. I'd run a 265/35 tyre for ease of choice / price etc

Yellow looks tops mate! Good job on paint too. Are you sticking with the same clutch - still in good condition?