sweefu

I tried NS2-R, very little grip and tore apart on a ripple strip. Not even in the league of Federal RS-R, let alone a proper semi slick.

I didn't know that about Superlap, interesting! For around the $250ea mark the Z221's seem like the best option, that's almost still KU36/RSR etc money. I went to a track day at Marulan a few weeks ago and a couple of guys there were running them with big praise.

How would the Z221 store compared to something like A050? My size is 235 45 17 and the Z221 M are $250ea in that size, I can't find A050 for less than $450ea

Michelin Pilot Sport 3 GO

Definitely bigger than RB25 gearbox. Check pictures for comparison on this Facebook page, he has done an RB to Z33 conversion https://www.facebook.com/pages/Eleven-Ten-Engineering/406320762773126?sk=timeline

So quick in the video, great to watch

I thought the S14 subframe was wider too. Just a word of caution - I would advise against an inline hydro handbrake, they are crap and make bleeding the brakes very difficult (which will be even more annoying given you are racing - bleeding more often). R chassis rear brakes are a good upgrade though. Sorry, not much help, just thought I'd chime in about the inline hydro.

Once again guys thank you very much for all the help and offers - really appreciate it. I ended up taking it to a mechanic to get done (among a few other small things) because I have a track day booked in for this weekend, I wanted to make sure I got to that and didn't miss out. 1 piston ended up being really badly pitted (car must have sat at some stage, or more water got in because of leaking seals - unsure). The other was not as bad but still replaced both pistons with some fancy new ones. I have a nice set of R33 rear brakes sitting in storage (hubs, drum etc) - if I had more time I would have had these sent to me and done the R33 upgrade. Fixing the S14 stuff was annoying and costly but at least the car will be back together and I can make the track day. Cheers

Thanks man! I ordered a seal kit from Taark today ($99 genuine Nissan). I'm going to call a few shops and see if anyone will do it for reasonable money. Was tempted to buy a second hand caliper but thought it might be in similar shape anyway - already paid for Wakefield on May 9/10 so hoping to get it buttoned up buy then. You guys are all such champs! I'm in NSW now mate. I've never rebuilt a rear caliper before but I don't have a driveway to do it in unfortunately - otherwise I'd give it a crack. Thanks for this mate, good tip. Going to avoid going with second hand calipers to try and fix it first go. Hopefully I can find a shop to do it for reasonable money, $695 is crazy

Man, I would love to I don't have the space to do it though. Could do it at a friends house - might have to if all these quotes are around $600!

Update: Mechanic diagnosed it as a leaking seal in the driver side rear caliper, just barely weeping. They quoted me an interesting $695 to rebuild the rear calipers. Getting some more quotes tomorrow, I've even got a seal kit to do it here. What would be a reasonable labour charge? 3 hours? Cheers

Thanks for all the help here guys. Since scuffing the pads and checking it all, the car pulls up really well. Fingers crossed it was just pad wear. In any case I'm getting a 'Brake and Clutch Specialist' to check it out in the morning, they said they will pressure test it to see if there's a leak which should give me peace of mind before going back on a track!

Thanks, I did this yesterday with the other checks and nothing visible. There was some grease on the rubber part of the pedal where it passes through the fire wall but no signs of leaks or brake fluid. If I push the pedal while the car is off it stays hard and the fluid level remains the same - would this indicate the master could be OK? Thanks, have done this also. All looks clean/clear, no leaks in sight and paintwork etc all OK still.

Hi all, As per the title I have a braking problem. This week I'm taking the car to a 'Brake and Clutch Specialist' to be diagnosed (or to get the official all clear) but it would be good to see if anyone has experienced anything similar or if anyone can shed some light on my problem. My brake components (Car is S14 200sx) - R33 front calipers - QFM A1RM pads front and rear - DBA 4000 T3 rotors front - RDA OEM replacement rotors rear - Nulon brake fluid (Dry boiling point 280deg) - OEM rear calipers/all OEM lines/BMC etc - Pads/rotors/fluid all replaced in November 2014 Basically, the brake fluid has needed topping up twice in the last couple of months but I can't see any leaks. I understand fluid level will drop with brake pad wear, but I can't see the brake pads having worn enough for two top ups to be necessary. Please see below for the story In March I attended a figure 8 drifting night, before driving I checked all my fluids and brake fluid was at 'max' line. During drifting the brake light on the dash flashed every now and again - I assumed this was the ABS system being upset with drifting (has happened before). Some days the event the brake fluid needed topping up, it was sitting maybe 1/8th below the 'max' line on the fluid reservoir. My assumptions could be the cause of my problems here, I assumed this was OK and that I had worn the rear brake pads at the drift event - rear pads were noticeably more worn. I topped up the fluid and carried on for a few more weeks of daily driving. Some weeks later the fluid level was again about 1/8th below 'max' line, but the car had only been daily driven since the last drifting event. This weekend I put the car on stands and inspected all the components and I couldn't see any leaks. No fluid hanging around bleed nipples or brake lines, or around caliper pistons or the BMC/brake pedal. I scuffed the pads, topped the fluid and I will keep inspecting it until it sees the mechanic, but I am curious to know if anyone can suggest what might be wrong. The only thing I can think of is a failing BMC leaking fluid into the booster - what do you think? The pedal feel is fine as far as I can tell, and after scuffing the pads (were slightly glazed) the car pulls up really well. Any help would be appreciated, thank you everyone!

Is that the Sparco Sprint V seat? If so, how do you find it?

PM sent mate!

Half of these 16" sizes are impossible/expensive to find anyway, just get 225/50r16 or new wheels.

Width and offset of the rays? Cheers.

What's the width and offset of the TC2's? And tyre size/condition? Thanks.

Might be a bit late here. I've read a lot of reviews of tyres and used several too. The best I have used in the wet are Michelin Pilot Sport 3 - just mind blowing. I did a 2 day Tarmac Rally which was wet, sometimes with standing water using the PS3 and they were incredible. A friend of mine is a bit of a tyre nut too, he seems to think his Goodyear Asymetric 2 were a tiny bit better in the wet, maybe 10% better than the PS3 but both outstanding tyres. Reviews suggest the Toyo Proxes T1 Sport are also excellent in the wet. Some friends of mine have had bad experience with KU36 for a wet tyre, reviews would suggest the same. My vote would be the Michelin, Goodyear or Toyo.

I was using the harder compound (street?) Definitely wouldn't recommend as a daily tyre. You'd be better off with something like Michelin PS3, Goodyear F1 Asymetric, Toyo T1 Sport etc etc, all excellent daily tyres that will give you some fun on the track too. Any tyre that's going to grip well and cope with heat on the track isn't going to be overly appropriate for a daily tyre too.

I wouldn't bother with NS2-R, mine fell to bits and had zero grip until they were boiling hot - useless on the street and dangerous in the wet. Is it for a daily car or track work?

Awesome parts man, great work all round. I'm jealous of your spare gearbox hoarding!

I did a tarmac rally event recently (only in the touring class, not competition class) and the brakes only faded on the 36km stages, anything less than that were fine. Overall I've had pretty good success with the A1RM, only fading after an extended period of hard driving.

Did you notice any of the pads wore the rotors faster than others? I'm interested to try the Intima SR next time I think