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I had a police woman once telling me to slow down or else at a traffic light. Funny thing is, I wasn't even speeding, I was even doing 50 in a 60 zone because I had just started the car... Another guy gave me the finger for speeding whilst on the right lane. I opened the window, pointing to the side of the road with a clublock in my hand. He didn't.

Hi, I know I'm digging the this thread from the grave a lil, but the S2 foggies bulb type is unclear. So far I've read they are H1, H3 and H7 on the forum. PM-R33, here you're a 100% the foggies are H1's, in this thread they're H3. Unless I missed something? Come on guys, this stuff should be ABC.

427rwkw... Thats something else... I sat in a 350rwkw 180sx race car (nos) and that scared the living sh!t out of me. Good job man

I'll take one too

Engine/Car: R33 GTS25T S2 First time Type of failure: New Exedy clutch with less than 3000kms died, and clutch fork. Factors influencing the failure: Pushrod at the clutch pedal was adjusted too far in, clutch was constantly slightly dis-engaged (like keeping your foot slightly on the clutch 24/7) State of tune of the engine: Unknown Jap tune, but stock boost and motor. 3" catback, apexi pod. Suspension and tyres: Tein coilovers, 18"s. Oil used and service interval: Castrol Magnatec every 5000kms or earlier + filter. Second time Engine/Car: Type of failure: Turbo. Factors influencing the failure: Intercooler hose came off a week earlier causing the car to turn off, coke cap placed to block off a hose for a flutter. lol. State of tune of the engine: Unknown Jap tune, stock boost and motor. 3" catback, apexi pod. Suspension and tyres: Tein coilovers, 18"s. Oil used and service interval: Castrol Magnatec every 5000kms or earlier + filter. General comments: Coke cap had been put in the night before the turbo failed.

Almost forgot, car is a R33 GTS25T S2, as seen on the yellow sticker.

Hey guys, I decided to pull out my ECU to see if it was stock or not, as I noticed all the limiters were bypassed. I noticed a gold sticker with TD Craft, ' Best adjusted tuner, Special Computer Control Unit' written on it. Anyone heard of this brand before? A quick google search shows it's a Japanese tuning company located in Yamagata and is a ROM tune. www.tdcraft.com You'll need google translator as it's in Japanese. Could this be retuned? I'll probably need a word with a few tuners about this, fingers crossed I might get away with spending 1K+ on a remapped Z32/R32 ECU. Any help is appreciated. Cheers.

Spoke to Sam today, 34 ECU into R33 is too much trouble. And a flash tune on the stock 33 isn't worth it. Instead he suggested an R32 ECU + VCT controller, quoted me $1000 everything supplied, fitted and tuned. Sam also told me the Z32 ECU is an option but they're not quite right with idle and a few other things... He also gave me the option of GTR cams with cam gears for the VCT dilemma, but highly recommends an R32 ECU + VCT controller. Anyone have any other suggestions? I read Rising Sun on here can retune R33 ECU's, need more info though. Cheers.

the ECU came out of a 34 that had splitfires, blitz ebc, fuel pump, injectors, bigger turbo and fmic. Currently tuned to 270rwkw. All belongs to 'hamoti' on here who wrote it off a few years back. I'll have a chat to sam from dr drift tommorow. Cheers.

Hey guys, I've been given a R34 GT-T ECU thats been reflashed/tuned by Dr Drift, could I plug this into my R33 S2 GTS25T? I'm guessing it's not going to be plug and play, I didn't achieve much out of searching. has anyone done anything like this before? I've also been given Splitfire coilpacks for a R34, bigger fuel pump and bigger injectors. a quick search tells me the coilpacks will fit a S2 R33, but the injectors won't without modification. Help is much appreciated, cheers. Rover.

Is it normal for the car not to boost like usual on hot days? (38C today!) It's usually boosting between 11-12psi, today it won't boost over 9-9.5psi, even after adjustment at the (turbotech) bleed valve. I did find the bleed valve loose this morning though. Tightened it back up, but minor difference. Hot day causing this boost drop? Probably helps to mention: stock R34 side mount, and R34 turbo. Thanks guys.

Yeah, when he put the clutch in which was a cold day there was free-play even though it wasn't adjusted. The clutch becomes more sensitive to disengagement on hot days (read: 35C+) so I'm thinking my master cylinder might be on it's way out soon. We'll see.

35C and the clutch didn't slip even under extreme force, now I'm quite confident the pedal was always abit pressed causing the clutch to be slightly disengaged, constantly. This 'small' problem binned 2 clutches, both being Exedy, 1 fork and will be giving my brand new heavy duty clutch an earlier retirement for sure. :sigh:. Props goes to blind_elk for suggesting the fix! Cheers for all the help guys.

Thats what made sense to me, blind_elk seems to be confident that this isn't the case though. I'll find out soon.

Increased pedal length to about 20mm-30mm, 10mm still had zero free play... Clutch pedal has freeplay now and feels lighter than before, even after abit of a push. Thursday is going to be 34+C, can test it out for real results then. If this was the cause of the slippage all along I'd be wrapped bit shattered also. $2000+ fk up... Thanks for all the input so far guys.

Could it be possible that there is oil leaking into the clutch, causing it to slip? leaking crankshaft seal springs to mind? Any input is appreciated.

On cold days, the clutch pedal is fine. On hot days, the clutch gets VERY stiff and starts to slip in high gears. Any ideas?

Did I drag you on the princess highway? I have A black R33 Spec 2.

No, not at all, quite the opposite actually. When the clutch slips the pedal becomes so much harder, not even say a mm of of freeplay. Any ideas?

Better insurance, as in comprehensive cover? Better be! My neighbours ford was stolen last year, thief crashed it into a brick fence not even 50 meters down the road while 'getting away' and broke his arm n leg.

Hey guys, quite new to the Skyline scene - and it has been an absolute nightmare so far. Bought the car which is a '96 Skyline GTS25T Series 2, stock with a brand new Exedy clutch, fitted by the previous owner. All sweet and well, until A 35C day comes along and the clutch starts slipping. Was on the freeway, in 5th gear and gave it less than half throttle to overtake, it slipped. In first to third it's almost unnoticable, on cold days it never happens. Over the next hot days it got very bad, until the clutch and fork gave in. Took the car to the mechanics, changed the clutch over to a Exedy 'Tuff' clutch (heavy duty) in a kit ofcourse, got a new fork aswell. All and sweet and well, until a 36C day a couple of days ago, where the clutch, in 5th on the freeway and it fkn slipped! Rang the mechanic, told me he's never come across this problem before and will check it out when he comes back from his holidays. He did tell me that he re-used the fluid which was some special oil (Redline I believe), because it was still new and better then the standard fluid he normally uses. Flywheel is perfect. I'm thinking this Redline fluid is thin to begin with, and is becoming too thin on hot days, causing bad lubrication in the gearbox causing the clutch to overheat (I think there was a burning smell). The car has done 128,xxx kms. I'll be changing the gearbox fluid after new year, hoping it'll solve the problem. Anyone experienced something similar to this before? Also, yesterday the car stalled instantly while cruising at 60, turned it back on and the ABS light lit up on the dash. Quickly pulled over, in a few seconds of idling the brake pedal started going crazy then the ABS light turned back off... Drove back home with a sound appearing from the brake pads as if they're worn which there not. Drove the car next day and everything seems fine, would anyone have a clue what this couldv'e been about?... Turbo also blew last week, swapped it over with an R34 turbo and intercooler. Am having bad luck with this one! Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

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