turael

brake fluid goes through rubber hoses fine (think: brake lines near your calipers are rubber) need to find out which has higher viscosity, and if the brake fluid floats ontop of the PS fluid, simply drain the reservoir as mentioned. if not, well... .... ...

awesome, so who does the tuning? sikpack or an independent tuner?

throw it in the bin you don't deserve an iphone

how does it look now after a while? perspex scratches so easily.... looks good though.

i had a laptop-based carpc at one stage, for about a year. i had startup and turnoff times down to under 5 seconds, from suspend (battery in laptop enables this, as long as i turn it on once every few days it would resume with no problems). running a stripped down XP and roadrunner frontend was pretty awesome.

haha yeah thats a bit expensive. i made my whole exhaust myself, bought some exhaust pipe and some bends, cut and welded it all together. not hard at all if you have some time and patience. only cost a few hundred for the whole thing.

so your intake is full of oil? if you want to take the turbo out of the equation, literally bypass it, connect your afm up to your throttle body and idle it for a bit, see if it blows smoke? just disconnect your normal IC piping. edit of course you'd have to actually remove the turbo too, sigh, proving difficult i know someone that did it while testing for blown seals, but it would probably be a bit loud/effort for most people

i use a couple of terminal blocks like that on my 180 (running rear battery). one on positive one on negative. have power running directly to a couple of amps where the rear seat used to be, and a 4 gauge running to the front, where i have a distribution block for everything that needs power. the distribution block is shielded off from the rest of the engine bay. it has about 4 or so misc connections in there. the negative ones run to the amps as well, and also a phat lead directly to the engine. on the engine i have another distrution block, but its bolted right onto the engine. from that comes off a bunch of cables that earth around in places in the engine bay, such as near the injectors, on the chassis, near the fuse/relay box. to make the distribution blocks for both positive and negative in the engine bay, i used some thick metal (i tihnk it was brass or something), drilled holes through it, and bolted in some decent bolts onto it. the positive block sits in a wicked sweet black perspex box. the end

+1 to sticking open. have the same thing happen to my random spec trumpet bov (which i've had for 4 years and always wanted to replace but couldnt justify it) lube it up a bit, see what happens, before you go around recirculating bovs and whatnot.

yep ATF ftw, i've been using a big jug of it for ages, still hasnt run out... close to tho

I wanna see what happens if you change to a hotter plug

man no offense but its better to learn than to pay for someone to do it. take jay up on his offer and get him to show you what parts of your engine do etc while he's at it you drive a nissan, you're going to have to learn to be a mechanic

well, acceptable runout for a brake rotor is 0.1mm, according to DBA. i guess this would be a lot more stringent than wheel runout though. from what i've found online, about 1-2mm should be OK.

i had something similar with my SR 180 when i first bought it. tried everything, ended up being the fuel pump. what plugs are you running, maybe you need something hotter... had some shitty hestitation when i swapped engines in the 180, swap from plat plugs to copper ones fixed that. worth a shot at $3 each

do it yourself bro is it a mechanical one? just hook up a vac hose to it

I've heard of that happening too, probably a good easy place to start. all other sensors etc plugged in?

oh yeah sure i have a rolling 33 in mint condition ill see you for real cheap for no particular reason bro! /s

yo, leave the manifolds connected to the engine. you should take the engine out all in 1 piece! its easier. certain things you take off the engine, such as piping, cooling, power steering. once its all ready, chain it up and lift it out bit by bit very slowly incase you have missed some wires or something (an engine crane will not forgive), you will be surprised how quickly it comes out. and for the engine mounts, try a spanner maybe

no worries. hope you didn't buy tectaloy, that shit will eat your engine. make sure you flush it out properly and fill up with something like genuine nissan/toyota/subaru coolant, or nulon longlife from supercheap

and you say you replaced your turbo? does the smoke go away after a bit? and silly question but, are you certain its smoke and not condensation

hmm for my 180 i removed the whole fuel rail... so out came the injectors and everything... just swiveled that around and left it all attached, didnt have to de-pressurise the fuel system that way. Not too sure if it that's simple for rb25's though. and yeah, take your bonnet off, will make life much easier. if you're going to take the gearbox out with the motor (which is pretty simple, but you might want to see if you can unbolt it from the engine and leave it in the car instead of having to put it back in anyway?), make sure it doesnt hit your cross member as you lower it and drag the engine forward. you'll crush your PS lines.

lawl how can it be clear and yet its coming from your radiator? are you filling it up with plain water or something? your HG is fine. good to see you've found the problem.

i have an r33 shell i will sell you for cheap if you want to do it

don't know about the skylines, but my 180sx HICAS kicked in at 80kmh, no lower. funny cause it would snap to full (hicas) lock in one direction (it was stuffed) as soon as it "activated" so at 80kmh i got a nasty rear end wiggle.. then i had to drive like a crab... hence take that shit out.

hey mate yep, its all possible in your backyard. if you know what you're doing, and have the right tools, you can get an engine out in under an hour. I take around half a day. first time takes considerably longer - you're learning and fixing other things up along the way etc. there isnt too much you have to do under the car. theres the tailshaft, the clutch slave, gearbox mounts.. looks like you've made a decent start, you still need to disconnect your brake booster, catch can, heater pipes by the looks, aircon, exhaust (dont forget 02 sensor first) you're pretty close. when lifting it out, try to make the chain / strap as short as you can to the engine, so you can lift it higher, makes getting the tail end of the gearbox over the rad support easier. also, your gearbox is going to leak everywhere, drain it first or plug up the output hole bit. so undo the gearbox mounts while have a trolley jack supporting it, and undo the engine mounts, and then just lift it up out of there! take it very slowly in case you forget anything, and remember you can always lower it down again!! and a big lever will come in handy edit. your spanner is probably around the crossmember / engine mount sort of area. and powercruise, yah, my mates went to that too (i'm in mandurah)