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Hey guys, just wondering how much of a job it is to adjust front/rear camber yourself, or is this something best left to the tyre outlets to do, when aligning them? I need to pretty much adjust camber on the front to get it just right to not make the tyres not rub against the guards.

Hey guys, my exh manifold stud-nuts keep getting loose every 3 or so months, and i have to keep tightening them, and today one fell loose altogether, and i have to buy a new nut to cover the hole!, is there ones i can replace these with to make them much tighter a fit? anyone know what size nut im gnna need, and any pointers to keep it from looseing so often, ive heard its a problem with the rb engines......and is there any reason why it may happen?and would it also cause missing, whiooch seems to be the sign before it goes loose! thanks in reply

THANKS, ill try 1mm first, if not, then .9mm....will i notice any difference, apart from no more missing, going from .55mm gap to 1mm??

Hey guys, i got a very mildly modded r33 gtst, which i will be getting splitfires put in for,as the car misses no matter what, even gapping them down extremely, or taping the coild etc.... car is a 94 gts25t 3" full exhaust w split dump fmic boost tap running ~10-11psi pod filter w/cold air feed I want to know what gap setting to use with the splitfires on 10psi?, would around .8 be right?or could i even use 1mm without problems? thanks in reply.

Please chk ur pm.thanks

Check your PM mate, last chance.

thanks for that, where was the o/d switch placed in his car?was it relayed to the power?

so the non dampened version is less heavy on the left leg???, it seems the dampered version would be the way to go, how does it feel compared to the stock clutch(the twin plate orcs)???

why the non dampened version?

so no need for something like an ogura 709d twin plate if only aiming for 250rwkw???

exactly what i was told

will a 4speed b&m shifter combined with the stage 3 mv valvebody upgrade allow me to ratchet all four gears?up and down?....i was told you can only ratchet the 1st three, and fourth always has to be relayed to a switch(for overdrive).....is this true?>if so why does it have to be this way???

Whats there to the install of the orc709d, and does the kit come with everything needed to bolt straight up???....i was told to change the pivot ball to a forged one like nismo?....im buying the kit soon

I heard alot of people say that its best to keep the auto diff when going from auto to manual, as its slightly better in terms of response.

bump....

Thanks, so theres no need to get the larger 700cc injectors at the same cost as 550cc(is it too overkill?), im getting the mv shift kit.

Basically how could i make a street weapon r33 gtst with a hks gt-rs?what supporting mods will i need, and will i be maxing out the turbo to reach the goal? ive currently got: 3inch exhaust plus split dump pipe hybrid front mount intercooler apexi pod filter running 10psi 9.5" rims all round with 235f and 265r, toyo t1r tyres lot of suspension work done, coilovers, camber arms etc... now heres the plan: hks gt-rs kit bosch 040 fuel pump nismo 550cc, or 700cc injectors(havent made up mind, but the 700cc are nearly the same price) power fc (dnno if ill need the hand commander?) will this be enough or will i need to do more?, and im keeping my auto, but putting in a shift kit, and electronic controller so the changes will be manual using a b&m shifter.

As topic, which would you prefer, im aiminf for 250rwkw max, and a mid-low 12sec daily driven car?, is this possible, and response is the key for me, the more the better.

control is the main reason.but the reason i wnna stay auto, is i dont want to have to fork out heaps of money for a manual conversion, and the price of clutches etc....

Ive been lookign for one of these for awhile now, and have stumbled accross one i like....i need to know exactly how they work though.. Some guys told me they work like a tiptronic, so you basically push the gearstick forward to change gears, then it returns back to neutral position, then to go down a gear, you flick the stick backwards???....does that sound rights?, im thinking of getting their new carbon fibre pro ratchet composite x series 4 speed shifters that have been release....what do you gys think? heres the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/B-M-COMPOSI...sspagenameZWD1V

Dont mind autos, have had mine for 3years now, its for a street car, and im aiming for 250-300rwkw mark.

Hey guys, ive been deciding whether to go manual or keep the auto, and heres what ive come up with, best of both worlds i guess. Stage II valvebody/shiftkit upgrade by MV MV electronic controller, shift up/down myself, link power to o/d(still getting some info on how this works) B&M ratchet shifter Larger Auto transmission cooler 2800rpm stall converter And....a trans temp guage Thats the plan, it should work out cheaper than going manual, and best thing is, i dont think anyone has done it in New Zealand yet:), and itd be quite fun to drive too:)

any pics of the B&M shifter in your car(prior to going manual)???.....im really considering the option, and what would the benfit be of going the ratchet shiter anyway if i went along with the valvebody upgrade??? And also, what type of ecu did you run to get into 12's in an auto mate?, i just need some good advice, im nearly sold on keeping auto, and strengthening.

Im seriously considering this option, as it would cost me near $4000 for a manual conversion, which i cant justify at this stage.... Heres what im thinking of getting: Stage II vavlebody upgrade oversize auto trans cooler 2800rpm stall converter maybe a b&m shifter...anyone used these before???? Also, whats the electronic controller that MV auto supplies as well?,

MMM..alot of people say its just fine with the stage 2 kit???......my question is if its worth doing and then getting a powerfc to tune it with, as some on the forum says this will work for the auto?.........also, is a shift kit faster at changing gears then say a manual??