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Hey i received the motor today - guy who sold it said the receipt from japan said r34 turbos (didnt know if they were n1), i couldnt see all the markings, and the turbines were blocked off(so dont know if they are ball bearing or not), but they look exactly like the turbos in the attachment i found on the net of a garrett n1.everything is written the same and in the same place, and the 2 yellow circles highlighted are where its says "N1".....how would i tell if they are r34 n1 type or not???.... they are ar.60 m24.. by the way, we going to fit some new dumps before dropping the motor in, so i get to see more of the turbos...where would the serial no(part no be) so i can 100% confirm its definitely r34 n1's... thanks:)

to r31 gagz, were you running stock or aftermarket dumps?, and are adj cam gears more worthwhile than cams?i want close to what you have on a safe tune...oh and were you using power fc d-jetro, or just normal? we got a good tuner here,and im about to buy an aftermarket ecu.... thanks.

to r31 gagz, were you running stock or aftermarket dumps?, and are adj cam gears more worthwhile than cams?i want close to what you have on a safe tune...oh and were you using power fc d-jetro, or just normal? we got a good tuner here,and im about to buy an aftermarket ecu.... thanks.

Thanks, my motor with forged pistons blew, and another one has since gone in, with stock internals.....will i still be ok running 300rwkw with stock motor?....

Hahaha - what supporting mods, stock internals?, will it be reliable? as thats key for me now - i cant afford to buy another rb26dett! 11.4 sounds good:)

Thanks guys, will 550cc injectors(nismo ones) suffice for my application of around ~300awkw?, thats all im after basically....i was also thinking of getting a 040 fuel pump and xforce dumps....powerfc an and tune.

As per title, are the xforce downpipes for the rb26dett engine any good quality, i can get a pair cheap, and was told the orignal items are very restrictive.....also, i have some n1 turbos, would these bolt up direct without any modifications??? thanks in advice...

Just wanting to know if the turbos i have are n1's,all i know is they are ball bearing, have ar.60 m24 on them thats all...i was told these are r34 n1's....it said r34 turbos, on the receipt from japan....??? Also, are xforce dump pipes a good replacement to stockers, and do they fit good?im thinking og getting them while turbos are out.

So basically 285's will look stupid on a 9.5" rim even with a big +12 offset....as i can get a deal on s03's in 285 for the same price of toyo's...

I think when he says vtec, he means nvcs, and its not standard in r33 gtr with rb26dett engines as far as im aware.....can someone please help, as im about to buy this new motor, direct swap as both are r33 gtr engines....is it going to be fine...

crisis situation, should i go s03's, or f452's, or re55's in really good condition for less than $600 for all four).....application is street use s03s are 285's f452's are 265's and re55's are 265;s will the re55's look like a wider tyre cause they are semi slicks?

i was thinking of buying s03 is 285/30/18's...not a good idea??? or re55's for the street in 265/35/18's... what you reckon?

My only other option is to buy some s03's for the same price, but in 285/30/18's, will this be too big for the r33 gtr, or +12 te37 rims???, i dont know what to do...the s03's are on sale....

Im buying an r33 gtr engine with r34 turbos...and i dont want to be scammed, and was wondering if all r34 gtrs came out as ballbearing turbos - so i can make sure when the motor is out... thanks.

Hey guys, i really want to buy these tyres as i know theyre really good, just wondering if a 9.5" te37 +12 offset rim would fill out the tyres good? Ive been told 265 on some tyres look thinner compared a 265 tyre of a different brand which would look more wide, fat and agressive (even though they are still 265's), What would the falkens be wide or thin? My other option is the toyo t1r's

Thanks mate, if we do a compression test when the motor is in, and its looking very healthy, could i be safe to assume it is healthy?, what are signs of a healthy motor anyway?, i dont know which direction to go right now, am i on the right track (ie buy new motor).....

Hey guys, my car is causing me more grief, and i was told it will need a full rebuild, i only want it back to factory specs, and theres a full engine minus ecu, and flywheel back going for a good dollar, with startup warranty, and also warrasnty if the compression across the board is not as the guy says it is(which is very healthy).... I was wondering how much money it would cost in labour, for someone to pull the motor out, and put the new one back in and get it all up and running from start - end, and also how long it would take roughly??? Ive decided off the rebuild at this stage.....but ill keep all the parts from my old engine, besides, with a startup warranty, and 200-210lbs compression across all cyl , and oil is 30lbs on starter warranty, can i be safe to assume, that this is a strong motor?, is there things i should really do while i have it out if i end up purchasing?, ie fit n1 oil pump, bigger headgasket etc???.... for what its worth the car is an r33 gtr, and old motor lost compression on 2 which was zero, and 3 was 40, the others were not badm but still low aswell....

Thanks, ill get it stud removed, how much would this cost roughly?

Hey guys, my mate overtightened one of the waterpump screws (think 12mm from memory) going into the block when he was replacing his pump, and he wanted to know if it's going to be ok?.....will it leak???, we tried tapping the bit thats left in block end, and its dead tight....so should it be ok?....im scared if we try to drill it out, we may get bits into his block... what you guys reckon?

Thats something the head reconditioner's would have done (hope they did)......could this be the noise?, if so, im going to be annoyed if i have to remove head again because of something they didnt do...... i did recheck the timing, and it was off by maybe a tooth, so im going to get the guy whos coming around to redo the timing and see if that helps, will having the timing off by a tooth cause bent valves and danger zone?....i heard someone who was out by 2 teeth and was running shit performance, but fine otherwse..... Im crossing my fingers its not Big ends (knocking).....could knocking occur due to wrong timing?

Well the timing and everything is spot on, i removed everything and rechecked, but my car seems to be still rattling, i thought it was the lifters, as they were noisy before i even replaced the gasket(when the motor was fine)....but this sound is amplified by 10!, i mean the more revs, the more noise they make, which makes me think they are knocks, im getting a mechanic to check today...

Hey, i dont kow if its a knock, or if its just the lifters that are noisy.....

Replaced cas, car started immediately, but was running very rough....is it usual for my engine to have noisy lifters for awhile after replacing headgasket and doing a bit of headwork?....im scared as someone said thats usual, while another said that could be your valves bent:(.....knocking in other words...i dont know how to tell the difference, someone is coming to have a look at it tommorow....

Definitely has compression, need to check fuel and spark i guess then....cas could still be faulty.im testing this today

Im in the same situation as r33turb, though im thinking of doing mine asap, whilst hes thinking of doing it in the long run, im really after ideas, and came accross this thread, sorry r33turb if im asking q's on your behalf:)