murph

Had a good day out there even tho I ended up early with a very blown out turbo gasket and a turbo flange with about a 1mm warp in it. did a 124.16 which is okish would have liked to go a bit quicker, was a fun to do something else than drift for a change. My GF had a ball driving the drift car for the first time at the track.

paid the remainder a couple of days ago

I have never ran onw on mine never had a problem. never had any trouble cold starting, may only be an issue if you live in the snow

Ok my car made 230 rwkw on a mainline at 18 psi. on pump 98 with td05h18G 3 inch anti surge 8cm rear extenal gate on rb20 with stock exh manafold , response was identical to the Vg30 turbo. turbo didnt run out of efficency and there was no boost drop at the top end. It could have probably made an extra 10 -15 kw if we pushed a bit more boost into it it but as the car is held at full noise for extended periods, decided to leave it at that. will post graph when I have it with me

The quality of those kits is not the greatest to say the least. also make sure you check the thread pitch of the oil fiter relocator, some are M20 not 3/4 and get the correct oil filter to suit.

I have had 1 customers drift car with this failure. and have have had a r33 road car with a cracked upright in this position which we found before total failure, this car had a large wheel to kerb impact tho And have a couple of mates who have seen this happen over at Ebisu I have never hit a kerb with the car, or any real impact, have had it on the car for 4 years. Only major load i can think of which would cause that would be jumping turn 1 apex at mallala have done that many times. yeah i previously had a crack starting on the rear LCA mount on the cradle, fixed that one decently tho before it propergated.

Does anyone have the material specifications on the skyline/silvia rear cast steel knuckle? The reason I ask is that last weekend I broke a rear knuckle at the track, throuch the lower balljoint mount up to the wheel bearing. The crack is obiously due to fatigue and there are several outher craks in the same area. What I want to do is weld reinforcement gussets up from the bottom edge of the lower baljoint block up towards the lower brake caliper mount and from the rear of the lower balljoint mount to the shock mount, to reduce the stress concentration around the failure. Obviosly this upright is a bin job, but I want to reenforce the the new knuckels, as apparently this a common problem with the skyline/ silvia rear end, and I dont want this happening again. The car is enginered and road registerd, but welding to a upright is a big no go zone if the material specification is unknown, and id prefer not to have to get spectro analasis done as its not cheap.

Well ran mine up last wed, and ended up spending the night chasing a missfire issue. Havent sorted it out yet didnt get a constitant run out of it but had 12 lb boost in it by 3400 rpm and over all response very similar to the vg30 seen did make 226kw probably more in it, but yeah still trying to sort the miss fire issue before can tune properly.

yeah Im not aiming for high figures, I just wanted a relyable turbo which isnt much laggier than the old VG30 i had on previously. response is more important for me as the car is a drift car. Last G1 comp I managed 2nd in div 2 with 150 rwkw on a stock 20 turbo. Conceded the final as I lost the exh wheel in the 2nd lap of top 4. Yeah basically I was after a new turbo not a unknown 2nd junk, as my car has to be relyable. If I get 220 ish Ill be happy, Ill see how much injector duty i get up to if im not too high, Im planning on runnig 10% methanol to see if it can take some more mid range timing to get it on as early as possible. mods are metal head gasket arp studs, recoed head, tomei oil restricors, drilled out oil drains in head to 9.5 mm celaned up oil drains in rear of head, 6 chamber oil air separator tank draing to sump, extenal sump to rcr cover drain/vent. gtr injectors, split fires, nistune, 600x300x100 twin pass intercooler. 3" exh. Kelford 258 deg cams 8.7 lift ( from memory) cam gears, oil cooler, direct drive billet hub fan with gk teck fan (not runnign a viscos couple) Os twinplate 25box prob more shit i cant remember but for a 20 its got a fair bit of fruit Also it gets tuned on a Mainline dyno, so figures are genrally lower than some other dynos. Will be gettign it tuned either tomoro or thurs so ill keep posted

Best to contact your state motoring department. As it varies state to state. In sa it would just be fill out and MR1 change of engine number form at the registations office, last time i did it it was no fee Id think it would just be a change of engine number form, enigne numbers still read rb25 xxxxxxx on both engines. Blue slip NFI not applicable in SA

Will let you know on here later in the week, I have just installed a TD05H-18G extenal gate 3" antisurge on my rb20. Went External gate as we have had 3 kandos seize the internal wastegates shut and overboost. So Id stay away from them for sure. went the 18g as all i read on the 18 and 20 was that the 20 made couple of extra kw in the top but lost a lot more low/mid. And compared wheel sizes to that of garrets and the 18g is only slighty by a bees dick larger than a 2871 which would be a perfect turbo for a rb20. and from memory the 20 was close to a 2876 which is a fair old mismatch of wheel sizes and have seen these to be very laggy. I plumed the a turbosmart 45mm gate into the exh housing of the turbo, and ran a long gate pipe thate curls under the dump pipe so it all fits under a factory 25 heatshiled and cut the 3 bolt flange off a 25 comp cover and welded it to the comp out let to run the factory elbow. ( Road registerd drift car dont want to hae to pay to put it turough emmisions testing) If you want to run this turbo on the stock manafold in the factroy compressor discharge angle you will need to run a spacer plate between the manafold and turbo, im running 12mm one and the comp housing is touching the maafold heatsheild, but my old vg30 one did the same.

I do all my own fab so its only material cost, and I get my tuning done at work. so it wont cost me much in fitting ect, also I found the VG turbo has a massive crack in the rear housing around the waste gate so the housing is stuffed.

Looking at geting a Kando turbo for my HR31 Drift car. Eng rb20 R32 motor Aside from the usual exhaust, Fmic, injectors head gasket and studs nistune ect it has Kelford 258 cams Was previously running a VG 30 turbo 45v4 front 71 V rear and was happy with it made 209 KW at 15 lb with no drop off in boost in the top end After 3 years of abuse it finaly lost the rear wheel the two turbos I had in mind were either TD05H - 18G or TDO5H- 20G The plan is to buy an external gated version, and run either a 40 or 45 mm Turbo smart external gate out of the turbine housing as I have seen the internally gated turbos either be lazy or be unable to controll boost. The turbo will be on the Factory manafold. Im after the turbo that will be the most responive and make 240 ish kw on 98 pump fuel on a Mainline dyno. Am i in the ball park with either of these turbos? on the site there is a billet wheel option on the 18G is this any better than the std 18G?

Nah I didnt a play with cam timinig with the factory cams, was thinking about doing it but never go around to it, then I found a set of cams for a price that i couldnt turn down, so I did it all at once. My car before cams it made peak power at a little over 6 ish , but power started to drop off a bit after 7k and was toatlly gone by 7.5. Am only using a factory VG30 turbo Peak power is still at about the same spot but it the engine does not loose efficency as rapidly once over reved, at about 8100 the power is the same as with out the cams, but between 7 and 8k there is about 20 kw diffrence. Which I find very usefull at the track i just gives the engine a more useable power band. Money would be better off spent on a turbo, But I dont want want to have my car make more than 220 Kw as I could not afford to run a car with more power due to the aditional cost in tires

After doing my cams Id recomend it, I had my limiter set a 8200, old set up car would never hit it at the track as the power would just die off so hard above about 7300 like falling off a clif. Now it Hits it easy may bump it up a bit more , and has a much larger powere window above 7100, it got good usable powere up untill about 7900 Which is really drifting.