murph

Those VIN numbers were issued with tho old Import scheme, It will be given a VIN, 6U90 - then your chassis no, more Zeros added to to take it up to 17 digits if required.

Yeah cant help you out, I work for a automotive engineer in SA and do that sort of work all the time, best to contact your states transport authority and get the list of approved engineering signatory from them

What state are you in? Important detail

Just DO-NOT buy any of the Chinese ones, I have seen 3 sets with cracks in the welding. And have had to replace some on a mates car at 4 am after the bracket broke, and that was without hitting anything.

What is the size of the sheets?

All we need is a JAF sized cruise with the route being laps of Adelaide CBD and the city would compelty stop. Im down for this

They are also included with the pads if you buy genuine Nissan pads

I dont know what track your planning on drifting at, but there is no point going to competition pads or bigger brakes. I ran mine the whole of last year with Stock HR front calipers EBC reds and stock R32 GTSt rear The fronts were a slide caliper with a 22x 274 disk much smaller than any of the late model stuff I never once had any fade drifting or the hardest hills work. The only time I ever managed to fade them was at the skyline nationals Circuit sprint. The thing with drift is that at Mallala and Tailem bend (the only 2 tracks ive done) is that if you were to go to a all out race pad they would be cold by the time you get though stage up. You need something that works cold, the same goes for front tires, they have to work when they are reasonably cold. I have upgraded my front brakes just last month to R32 GTR, but the only reason I have done that is for more readily available pads, and that I would like to take it out for some more grip work this year Also The biggest problem most people have with brake fade is fluid fade. Brake fluid absorbs water from the air when it does this the boiling point drops dramatically, I change my fluid every 3 months maximum

Castor rods are good, Dont disable the power steering!!! Brakes don't need to be up graded just a good set of pads and fluid Im running QFM ARM1 pads Cradle lock bushes are a good Idea also

Nah I reckon He meant turn 2, turn two really is a double apex corner, It tightens on the exit, so it is really easy to start to run wide early. Turn 3 the way I like to do it is be going in real fast the down shift hard under brakes 4-3 then mild scando while still braking while shifting 3-2nd put it in with big angle and the just about rub the nose of the car on the apex tire stacks near parallel to them. Gives an extremely slow exit speed but dam its fun and its a non judged area any way

And As Import S13 said be careful of the turn 1 inside ripple strip. I bent a strut hitting it, several other cars have done suspension damage hitting it. Evan Daws rolled his R31 a couple of years back hitting it. Yeah its nasty

Yeah you dont want to mess with clems lawn http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=159047&l=8fff7b1d07&id=100001808548760

1st thing Shim diff, cost you about $8 most important thing, no point going out single pegging. 2nd thing suspension decent coil overs, also recommend an upgraded rear sway bar. Dont put an after market front on in will make it under steer. Remove the HICAS Bushes replace anything that is stuffed worn sloppy etc. Tires dont bother with old 2nd hand junk it will only delamate and ruin your track time. Then just track it, don't worry about extra lock knuckles etc, or big power . just drive it Once you have the hang of it then go for power and lock

very one out there is pretty chilled, Yeah static burnouts/ donuts are a big no no, If there are marshals on the track, go slow past them like 25km max. Yeah about $500 sounds about what I spend each prack, fuel entry tires ect. If you spin Check if car are coming if you are gonna slow another coming car wait off the track, if you can get back out without slowing anyone down get straight back out. Servicing I Put-mine up on a hoist check everything is tight before every practice/ comp get the tape measure out check my toe are about right, Change the engine oil after every 2nd or 3rd session depending on what it looks like. I replace tho oil filter after every session tho cheap insurance. Nah go big scandos into turn 1 youll get good at panel beating heres what mine looked like after the Jan practice http://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=110003079075368&id=100001808548760&ref=notif&notif_t=like#!/photo.php?id=100001808548760&pid=155866&fbid=122455327824751 Much straighter now tho Yeah I have been out to every practice in 2010 and plan to do the same this year as well as doing all the comps, get into it youll have a ball

Take a can of Toluene with you ad that to your 91 or 95 should bring you back up to a higher rating. Much better octane booster than mos of the commercial ones on the market Or just knock a couple of degrees ignition timing out of it

Sorry link did not work heres the wheel pics

Pair of 5x114.3 17 x 9 +44 Lamborghini looking wheels, I was told they were Vertex Manarays, but they have a Monza sticker on the back. These wheels can be flipped for massive negative offset if so desired no tyres $150 http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm248/m...sx/SL370346.jpg http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm248/m...sx/SL370336.jpg Pair of brand new never fitted still have stickers 215/45R17 Federal 595 tyres bought over ordered for the drifts $240 (No offers no neg on price) Shane 04 3968 3619

your diff was probably whining before you just could not hear it as it is insulated from the cabin by the big sloppy rubber bushes. When the sub frame is locked you will hear more noises from the drive train

Sent pm re drive shafts

Well the speedo is not connected, and I over estimated. just calculated my speed from my tach, only hit 180Km/h. 6500 rpm 235/45R17 (643mm dia) 4.36 diff in 4th 1.1 didn't mean to BS, but it was very hairy having the ass step right out on you at that speed any way

Running 32 rear sub frame rear spring rate is 7.5 kg JIC dampers non adjust valveing inverted mono tube, white line adj rear bar the thickest one 24mm from memory stiffest setting 17x9+35 wheels 1deg neg ds camber 1.5 ps camber .5mm toe in. Front 31 struts converted to coil overs 8.1 kg springs bilstien inserts, (fells just slightly under damper 3 deg neg 2mm toe out 17x8 total offset +3 5deg castor (cant put any more in or ill hit the front bar) front bar whiteline 27mm adj on softest setting. Haven't got around to plunging in all my geometry and settings into my full car dynamic modelling software yet but will get around to it shortly. Was mainly having issues with slow-med speed under steer around tight corners and have almost fixed that, but it has obviously induced high speed over steer (with 200 only RwKw you should not be able to blaze the tires in 5th at 200). but yeah Not too concerned just yet as the car is a drift car and those conditions are not encountered at mallala during drift

You weren't the only one I was just running 595 federals, I was in car 20 the Purple 31 coupe, only chang i made to the car from my drift set up was putting 235's on the back vs 215s all round. Although I drove the car to 150% of the tires capabilities, the car was either sliding the front or the back or all the whole time. and I was not trying to drift it. But I reckon a 126.99 and running consistently and being within half a second the whole day of that time with street tires and stock brakes, with the car sliding the whole time, even at 200km/h when clicking 5th at the kink, was pretty reasonable. would have liked to go faster but need better tires and brakes

Nah got it wrong 14 rear in a 13 will give you 4wd lift kit style not low

bump

Pair of Genuine Watanabe's they still have the stickers on the back 5x114.3 16x8 + 35 perfect hub centric on Nissan hubs minimal rash. These wheels have great brake caliper clearance, they clear R34 GTT 4 piston front brakes! tyres KU 31 205/55R16 one has completely de-lamented other has lost a couple of chunks $250 http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm248/m...sx/SL370347.jpg Pair of 5x114.3 17 x 9 +44 Lamborghini looking wheels, I was told they were Vertex Manarays, but they have a Monza sticker on the back. These wheels can be flipped for massive negative offset if so desired no tyres $150 http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm248/m...sx/SL370346.jpg http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm248/m...sx/SL370336.jpg Located Modbury Area Shane PH 04 3968 3619