R34 -_-

I'm no expert so you shouldn't pay too much attention to what I'm going to say but my opinion is that you usually f*ck the gearbox in the 1st place by (A.) Thrashing the shit out of the car by either doing skids etc or by just being a shit driver that can't change gears. (B.) The gearbox is somehow just one of those cars that got a dud from the factory. (C.) It's an old gearbox and its just f*cked from wear n tear and in that case the km's shown on the speedo may be wound back etc Looks very nice apart from the mags and the ride height. It's only done 75k kms and comes with the rare pop up screen and has xenon lights, to me that's pretty good value for money but then I'm no expert in aussie prices either lol Just keep in mind that: A good alarm is about $550 Insurance can range from $1500-$3500 (depending on age and where you live) Maintenance i.e cam belt etc $1000 (Good idea to do it soon based on Km's and age)

I'm sorry but people like you piss me off, read the f*kn thread dude. It's been posted about 4 times what needs to be done, most clearly in the last 5 or so posts. And maddowse you can modify the bumper to fit if your keen on spending an hour or 2 cutting away the unnecessary plastic on the series 1 bumper so it doesn't get in the way of the series 2 reinforcement bars and then make up some clips/ties to hold the bumper into position where it meets the bonnet. I might post up some photo's of my bumper if i get round to it

Taxi drivers, they don't need to be distracted to cause an accident. For the record changing cds is easy while driving i can do it while looking at the road but you can do it in stages if you can't do it blind. Obviously if your trying to do it all at once while not looking at the road your going to crash

sick mate sick, sub woofer

I bought the series 1 bar for $50 but decided it wasn't worth leaving it on if it didn't fit 100%, you could buy an aftermarket fiberglass bar and modify it a lot easier than the plastic factory one. And as for the huge gap, that might be due to having an aftermarket bonnet... I wouldn't have much of a clue about a FMIC, but if you wanted the series 1 bar just for that then i would suggest the factory Altia (some call it nismo) front bar as its got similar air flow but looks nicer (with an aftermarket lip)

some people prefer to spend a bit more rather then going through the hassle of selling and buying a car. plus in my case i would only need the turbo gearbox. just noticed its a gt-4, putting a turbo on that wouldn't give you much more power at 4 wheels?

Car/Engine: 2001 Nissan Skyline R34 25 GT-V Custom 2.25inch exhaust with Coby headers/extractors/resonator with twin tip muffler Custom aluminum intake piping with pod filter and shield New 02 sensor Carbon fiber vented bonnet 17 x 8, 17 x 9 Advanti racing rims 123000ks on the clock Regular Oil changes and good general maintenance Petrol of Choice: Usually runs on Shell V-Power. BP 98 every month or so $ Per Tank: $85-$90 approx 45L tank ( i don't run it to empty, but it costs me about $80 for 300/350km tops) KM Per Tank: 300-350km Comments: Live out in the country (40km round trip from home to work and back again) so approx 5km is city driving, not sure why i have shit km/L as i don't floor it very often during the week, i change gears just before 4000rpm with approx 1/3 throttle. The most km's iv gotten from a tank is just over 400 when i drove long distance and that was passing people and going up hills etc.

Hamilton, R34 coupe

Have you thought about aerodynamics?? You could have a look at getting the east bear front + rear under body carbon fiber diffusers, although they wouldn't come into play until about half way down the track..

Wow someone won lotto... With awd the gtr can launch harder and get his turbo's spooln quicker? and I'm guessing after the 34 gets traction It'll catch up and maybe pass the gtr? Has anyone thought of calling it a tie yet? lol

What a load of crap, R34 series 1 won't fit a series 2 unless u mod a few things, even then you will have a huge gap between the bonnet and bumper. The front reinforcing bar needs changing and the bars under the headlights need changing, its lines up fine with the panels but leaves a big gap under the bonnet, oh and then there's the wires for the indicators, either buy new tips or trim the bits of plastic so they can slot into the ugly series 1 indicators btw i have a manual series 2 R34, they aren't that rare I've seen quite a few in my town, turb and non turb

That pretty much sums it all up pretty well

S4LVA: "Ported will always be boomier than sealed. head units these days are all good enough to give you more than decent sound. You wont notice much of a difference in sound when comparing a $140 one to a $700 one." Good job trying to flame me, u just burned... i petty da fool!

Haha nah actually mate (actuall f*k off ur not my mate) i only "blew up" coz some dick just like you dissed me for asking about turbn the na 26, so i defended myself in saying "why not' turb it if u were going to pay out the arse for an N/A motor and as for the wank factor??? if someone was to turb a rare motor that would pretty much be the same as the standard rb26 and cost more... pfft what your trying to say is that the only reason you'd buy a non turb rb26 is coz its rare and different regardless of its power you'd rather have the N/A over the T, and if for some reason down the track you wanted more power if you put a turbo on it your instantly a wanker? haha now that bit is just bullshit. And about that 2nd to last piece of shit you typed maybe you should think twice about posting a reply with a single lined insult that didn't have anything to do with you and further more you didn't even mention anything about the autech, if you wana cut the bullshit and get back on topic why'd u join in and carry on someone else's argument from like 3 weeks ago. /end bullshit (hope this gets it back on topic)

Can they actually let ppl go through with the transaction if they try buy stuff off there?

I went for the Alpine type R 12" with a standard non ported angled box and the type R amp designed to power it (because it was stock clearance) and it goes very well then eventually i bought a much larger slot ported box from soundstream and it went a lot better but in the end i took it out because it jammed my boot shut one day.. The head unit is also important in terms of sound quality isn't it?

let me guess your one of those ignorant dumb asses that skim through threads until you notice something and then post a reply to it without even knowing what its about? good job your opinions must be of real value and use to everyone yea?

My carbon fibre bonnet only cost me $800 (aus) but that was with a $200 discount.. what a rip off that things tiny as

Terry you thread-grave digger... tsk tsk tsk.. I wana see a pic of what you guys are all talking about, must be good.. Oh and if it is the blade on the gtr that your talking about, tangomatt has one on his r34 gtr spoiler

post up pics if you get them

I had a long coby resonator and another shorter/fatter resonator on my car at one stage with a 4" cannon and that wasn't even close to being drony, it was rather quiet until 5k rpm and even then it still wasn't a deep drony sound

Iv got a 2 1/4 inch exhaust with one resonator and a 2.5" twin square tip muffler, sounds nice and is right on the legal db limit. your intake piping also comes into play when you modify your exhaust i think, i removed all the stock piping on my car and it made it louder and gave it a nice sucking sound

He must be a goober to have not sorted things out with the cops by now. I don't feel sorry for you if still haven't sussed it out with them yet

Try making them smaller coz you have to re size the photos before you can upload them (2mb size limit)