pauly24

mate wait! please dont tell me your mechanic charged you for this? If one of your cams was a tooth off, your car would drive like an absolute slug and you would def know. What happens is, the dots only line up every 720 degress. So all you had to do was rotate the engine 360 degrees and it would of lined up... (in other words nothing was wrong with your engine) If it was truley out, your mechanic would of had to remove the timing belt to fix it, and it would of cost big bucks, not an easy job. If he said it was an easy fix and charged you a little amount you just got ripped. Try a new holden SIDI engine, have to rotate 3000+ times before it lines up correctly.

its suppose to be a good timing light, borrowed it from a friends mechanic workshop. Im using the wire that goes into the power transistor that sits at the far back top of the engine. There are 6 wires going into this power transistor, one of the wires has been pulled out of the 6 wire harness, just enough to attach the light too, this is what i used. Admittedly i didn't check if its cylinder #1, but if it wasn't it would be minimum 60 degrees out, which it isn't. But will double check. If what blind elk said about the timing light showing double, my money is on that's the problem, will set it tonight to 30 degrees and see what happens. Actually thinking about it, its the wasted spark firing system which would cause the light to show double (doing some research on the net confirms this)

If thats the case then I would have to set the timing to 30, but im pretty sure rotating the CAS completly wont take me that far. I guess I can give it a shot though dont have anything to lose. How am I suppose to know if the timing light is doubling the reading? When I take the timming that far out 30+ it would miss at idle, so makes me think its a true reading.

So I replaced my water pump, went to set base timing and was well over the 30 mark, possibly at 50 degrees. Turned out when I put the belt onto the exhaust camshaft, it was one tooth over. So off comes the timing belt again, everything lined up correctly. Base timing was set to just little over 15, possibly 17 as it wouldnt retard any more. (idle may of been tad high as I had to go off rpm tacho in car) anyways so take the car for a drive, and it was making 7psi but the car had no power, felt like it had no boost. I think maybe because I ran the car so long at idle with 50 degrees base timing the ECU has pulled out so much timing that now when I run it theres no power, so i disconnecetd the ecu this morning and will try again tonight. Im waiting on a wideband controller so i can check the AFR. But since the car is making boost, the only thing I can think of is fuel or timing as to why it has no power at all. Any other ideas?

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/5376/25112009208e.jpg just wondering if anyone know what these are, need to get another one!

Your using a torque wrench to break your bolts? I hope you mean breaker bar.

blind elk, only r32 have a closed throttle switch. The topic starter has an R33 so no switch (unless his has an auto which im just presuming he hasnt)

The reason why your RB25DET has idle issues when using an RB20DET ECU is because the RB25DET manual ECU only goes off a TPS (this is a variable voltage sensor that relates to the position of your throttle body, when the voltage is low enough the RB25DET ecu knows the TB is closed and goes to an idle table) The RB20DET has a switch, when the throttle body is closed the switch is activated and the ECU goes to the idle map. So now you have an RB20DET thats looking for a switch and your RB25DET does not have one... or does it? Lucky enough for us the R33 auto does use an idle switch, go have a look at your throttle body and you will see a spare plug. Wire this into your ECU and your done, or alternativly if your using nistune there is a firmware fix... all this a good tuner should know so id suggest you find another one. have fun!

I cant figure out if the jaycar one has two switching points or just one, does anyone know from experience? It says it can switch on the rise or fall, but thats only around 1 point.

I need to put in a controller for my VTC due to nistune and rb20 ecu. What RPM does the VTC switch on? does it switch again at another rpm or does it only swicth around one rpm?

R33, RB25DET... will make some calls today, hope they have it in stock so I can get this car running tonight.... How many studs do I need and what size (rang up bursons and they need to know the size)

Was done on a warmed up motor.

Looking at possibly rebuilding an R33 gearbox myself in the not to distant future. Just curious to where I can buy parts from, I have had a quick look but not knowing the proper name for these boxes make it hard. Can someone give me an insight, and if anyone has rebuilt one can they share their experience? Only looking for a standard rebuild as power is only going to be around 250rwkw maybe a bit more... Thanks.

Oh ok thanks, might go for a 33 then. Really tossing up, its between getting a skyline or something with an LS1. Either one will just end up being a project car.

Can somenoe explain to me the 15yr old rule, or is it pre 1989 cars now? Im looking for a project car, and was thinking about importing the oldest R32 i could find, but it seems like no matter what year R32 I import, i will still have to pay the 2 grand or so complience fee, is this correct?