ARTZ

Blast form the past... That will feel good till the first speed hump...then you screwed...

Point is, if it feels good ...do it...

<p>Gtst tyre placard on mine says stock rims are either 16 x 6.5 or 17x 8 and 17x 9 so legally you can run 9s and 10s respectably and you can use an 18 inch rim too...not sure about rules on offsets but you must not have tyre/rim that protrudes the outer edge of your car..anything between about +15 and +38 fits up ok with some guard rolling...<p>

no thats about right....its actually on the cheaper side depending what clutch...my guess its an excedy HD or something..But yeah..the price is about what you would expect to pay for any clutch swap... NPC do a nice organic clutch for about 650$ fitment is usually 400ish plus oil and clutch fluid replacement..

you only need them MU shoes if you plan on drifting though...pointless for racing...you may as well spend it on discs...but I wouldnt really bother unless you are killing stockies first.. the A1RMs are nice..I have them now and only 110$ or so...so does it really matter how long they last at that price...even if you replace them yearly its a bargain...very smooth pad on the street too...

test is useless without 22s Nah its kind of interesting but not really anything new to most of us... I remember when top gear aus tested the walkinshaw VE...it was faster with 20s than it was on "up-spec"22s. that you pay extra for...everyone knows big wheels are a joke and used only in "Bling" applications or on "pimp my ride".. i think V8 supercars are still running 17s but they look almost silly with 17s on the street..

only time I heard strange noises from it was when my fuel pressure jumped to 6 bar..it made some horrid screech..

so maybe all those workers losing their jobs at Holford can become mechanics and fix dodgey american built junk.. employment is employment right ?

parts for accords and camrys are as cheap or cheaper...but you have to order them from the US..same goes for alot of euro crap too I believe..

you mean R33JET "the second" is no more...the original R33JET died years ago http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/208999-r33-gts-t-hpi-feature-car-r33jet/

Don't matter how many commafords we all buy the industry is doomed cause it doent have what it takes to make it on a global scale.. Im not going to say they are bad cars cause they are fine, I mean some people think Saabs are/were great too.. But if the rest of the world doesn't buy in they're doomed...sad but true ..Australia just doesn't have a large enough market to support them and in reality half of their products are just rebadged cars from other makers anyway.. Its just flogging a dead horse really

But no Carbon cannister is worth +1000 street creds. but seriously my carbon canister has carbon falling out of it when i turn it upside down...is that normal? I'm quit happy to reinstall it if I know it works..I love having more junk in the engine bay to make life hard when I am working there..

Damn pressure from.opening my half full tank today almost blew me away...

So why'd you get them?? If you actually do go to the track just make sure you put in some good fluid and it will be fine..it will take you a year of track days before you kill the brakes at least and that's if your a hack or very fast, they should last much longer if you drive clean

your 740s maxed out..really ?..dunno where my 750s are at...how do we work that shit out I thought they would be ample for the task.. Cant wait to see how it goes cause I so nearly went there....still might if it proves worthwhile its a metre of piping I can lose...

yeah I found a sticker that said "made In china" and another that said "not for off road use"..kinda says it all hey. ..

Just sikaflex...or In your case marine grade stuff. Might be better cause its white...just get at supercrap auto..I made mistake of using marine grade on my car,stupid white crap went everywhere.. There is no holes you just drill it on with self tapping.screws ..

Or buy them.direct from.Hel for 100$ on eBay....

Looks nuts but where would I put my battery

Thanks very much for that wall of text Marc, was very informative. But after much deliberation a look at my bank balance and realisation the bike probably isnt worth the effort.. i just put a new chain on it It wasnt as bad as first thought, the back axle was loose and the chain was well rusted ,the combination of this completely stuffed the gear changing of course...but with a new chain alot of wd40 and some fiddling I have nearly all the gears working sweet and they seem to be getting better as I ride it...I tighten the brakes and its as good as new... the front shocks I think are the old school threaded type so not worth spending cash on, it already has 3 piece cranks too that I cant get off to change cogs even If I wanted too..I belted them no budge anyway It can do me for now and if I ride enough that it wears out I will just buy or build a new bike... If it doesnt wear out I obviously dont like riding enough... I found it at the tip so all up its cost me 60$ weird looking thing hey!!

are you using a standard or aftermarket ecu... either way I'd think just use the rb26 ecu and then just rewire according to the CORRECT R34 pinout diagrams..... Cant be too hard though Im sure it will be

is there really going to be that much temp difference between the bearing and the filter though? I mean the split second it gets hot at the bearing surely couldn't do damage that couldn't be read at the sensor/filter and knowing what temp you should ease up on it which seems to be around 120...

Still haven't found the wet spot mate...don't worry you'll get there one day young fella lovin this hot weather, laying in bed with the fan blowing across me onto the missus, every time I fart hilarity ensues

well its going to be the same temp at the filter housing as it is before the cooler ya...