ARTZ

Roy your a legend bud..I would take you up on both offers however may have missed the boat...silly me didnt realize cams license was needed for this events..can apply tomorrow but may be too late hey... Either way I will be there though ..

My Adaptronic 440 does it too and was half the price of your fancy haltech Also plugged straight in and has built in map...but seems most tuners aren't keen on them yet, still no idea why. NKOTB issue maybe. cost of my entire engine managementAdaptronic 1200$ (hypergear)Mac solenoid 55$ (eBay)AIT sensor 40$ (repco)That's 1300 for a setup that will do damn near everything the big names will..add an E-sensor for what 300$ and a wideband for 220$ and I still haven't spent 2k.. Go link G4 otherwise..

Brea sidemount ftw.. What I want to know is the size of the back side of the compressor..if you were to use a 4 inch cover but upside down with a stock mani how would it fit

I got 3 springs @ 14psi...ecu controls it

So if I was to rock down with a 500hp car rolling on linglongs and stock brakes with tired pads for DT...she'll be right yeah...?? I can always turn the boost down a little, maybe even splurge on some front pads , or is that not funny

why u selling Nick...??

There is no need to use sandpaper, as stated cutting compound and a buffing pad works best

There is no need to use sandpaper, as stated cutting compound and a buffing pad works best

Can't be good for windscreen seals either.. I use Windex on a rag to clean off cutting compound as I was recommended isopropyl, but only in small doses ..I wouldn't put it in my washer, not straight anyway maybe watered down a lot...sounds like a waste of money anyway Windex isn't cheap..just get washer mix from SCA or something its like 5$ and lasts ages..I bought a bottle and sharing it between 3 cars has lasted over a year, still have half a bottle left..

If I try to start cold ( it has been very cold here lately) with it unplugged it won't idle..If I give it a heap of gas when I start it it may keep running..but starting at 3000rpm isn't a great idea... It does run like magic if I plug it in and start it and it runs like magic when I unplug it and drive it..def something wrong with need another AAC to try, or just piss it off all together..

Yeah, hate to say I told you so..Should of gone the 99$ rail..

My AAC has been playing funny buggers too..has been cleaned.. If it's plugged in,(brown plug,purple is just ac isn't it?) it starts and idles fine, then soon as I drive it and stop, idle will bounce between 1500-2000... Unplug it and idles (about 900rpm) and runs fine but of course now cold start is no good.. Have been just plugging it back in when cold to start it, which of course is annoying.. So quite obviously an AAC issue..not sure if it's mechanical or electric though.. Also not sure is it worth replacing AAC or just block it off and tune for cold start accordingly, or even considering just putting a switch inline to turn it off and on as needed.. I know it Probably doesn't help you much Rolls..just thought I'd throw it in here..

What's leaking out of your intake pipe?

Omg Dave you can be fussy, i've seen it before and it looks fine..lol Either way that's a reasonable price..Will put on top of my want list

defected??

yeah 255/40s and I meant $400 for a pair, sorry guys...425$ actually on ebay, but looks like they're out of stock 235/40s are fine on the front of a 33 as well, i'd run em..might even solve some of scrub issue ..though I doubt it... whats the going rate on ad08s then??

Which flex sensor did you use Mat?

How to Reverse with button Clutch in Clutch out Clutch in Clutch out Clutch in Clutch out Easy, think of it as leg exercises you lazy basterds There is nearly always a way to avoid riding the clutch and you should always adhere to do so..sometimes yes it is unavoidable, like reversing a boat up a hill..Unfortunately that is one of the hidden costs of boat ownership the boat salesman didnt tell you about..as long as these times aren't too regular it shouldn't be too much of a problem...but if you can smell clutch, you are probably doing some damage

Have heard a few complaints about 36s glad I didn't buy them ..31s seem to be a better tyre for the money by all accounts.. Nittos just over 400$ for 255/17s pretty good value and look more like a track tyre than street..whT are they like in the wet ? Will either get these or splurge on the yokos

But if you're properly clued up and have a sensor/ecu that works automatically you shouldn't have to manually change it..that is after all the whole purpose of having an E- sensor

Timmy you didn't feed the Mogwai after midnight did you??

sorry bud didnt think you wanted em anymore... take em if you want I'd prefer a fixed back really anyway...plus hes not where I thought he was...

I will take seats...can pik em up anytime...

yep Ok I only did it once actually, just wanted to see how it handled it as the old one would slip a fair bit.. this one just "Thuds" into gear... with the extra torque and e85 now, I rarely have to drop it back gears to get it moving anyway, just squeeze the gas, count 1 hippopotamus and its off...

Marios car is a brilliant work of art....Actually I rememeber they did a "My shed" story in Street Machine mag and he has a whole stack of cool cars ...Some folks have all the luck.. you may find this very interesting, i know i did http://www.full-race.com/r14/