ARTZ

You should still be able to pick up a run out model BT50 and mate ,my mazda hasnt struggled through anything, its in near perfect condition...another bt50 at work has 600,000kms on his original clutch, though he keeps blowing engines cause he doesn't change timing belts...lol.. i already stated earlier that if anything GW is the far more sedate driver ..compared to my often hoonish antics.. my b2600 also got 480,000 on original discs engine gearbox with no signs of rust. There was even no wear or tear on the seat fabric and I never used seat covers, I never had a single problem with it (that I didnt cause anyway) and I know of a few up around 1,000,000kms i too am watching boring BIG bang waiting for 2 broke girl boobage....whats beef3?

Another thing i quickly did the maths on while driving around this arvo.. as i said GW 18k vs BT50 22k... without the gas, the petrol GW has a fuel economy of 10.7/100km the BT50 has fuel economy of 8.3/100km so after 100,000kms (which is roughly 18months driving for us) and 10,700L and 8,300L respectively ..Lets say your paying on average 1.50$ per litre GW..16,000$ Bt50..12,450$ I will add that unfortunately the BT50 uses 7L of oil each change so factor in an extra 20L of oil over 100,000kms which is less than 200$, though GW will need a few sets of spark plugs so lets say 50$ So far you are only 700$ ahead with buying the GW, but then again you will need new tyres and brakes, so there goes your 700$..and we're about even Also I just noticed, you will need a timing belt change @ 120,000kms on the mazda. NB *I just changed mine at 150km and it looked fine,no cracks, splits and only minimal signs of any wear...I know a few guys that have run them past 200,000...They usually snap not long after , between 210-220kms* GW...... 80,000km timing belt change....So even the timing belt only lasts 2/3s as long.. Now I'm not sure how long it "could" last, but this can often be 1000$ job at most dealers and now the Mazda is way out out in front again... This thread is meant to be more of a comparison than a rubbish on GW session. Though i do have a pet hate for these new breeds of soulless, budget automobiles and I believe the GW is exactly that, they really are just targeted at a market that look at no further than the initial purchase price when buying a car...but of course most of you know that already

2006-2011 model was 21,990 on road been advertised as such for years..i dunno how much the new model is but i imaging that price will drop once the old model has been runout.. My old Mazda came with optional gas fully covered by factory warranty but lasted 240,000kms anyway Look all i am suggesting here is 2 cars compared worth the same $$ at the time one has clearly came out way ahead... As for GW being a POS that is obviously my opinion, it appears to be built with inferior parts that dont last..If the tyres, brakes and headgasket dont last half the life of another model thats the same price, what other short cuts have been taken.. You can make your own decision...Im just presenting you with some facts, take it as you please

At least someone got it..... As for my car, grabbed a drum of E85 and went for a tune last week, Before I got on the dyno I noticed my fuel pressure dropping and found a leak in the rail. Right under the TB too, tired to fix it but no luck.. In the meantime get a message that Trents dyno was now busted anyway and out of commision for a week or so... So yeah Pulled the rail out and got sick of playing with rubber O-rings, so Scotty fixed it with fire ,,,still in the process of reassmbly then the wait for dyno time...

yeah but didnt you say , E85 changes everything? so if you can get a turbo that makes a comfy 280 on a stock manifold with PULP..it will comfortably pump over 300 on e85

i think around 300kw is what everybody has been saying here for years... it will push beyond that but its not ideal

The whole point of my OP was proof that it is in fact not cheaper in the long run...Ok maybe you save on initial purchase price, but unless you get the gas or diesel (which is more expensive anyway) you are not really saving anything..you are just paying the same price for an inferior vehicle... A petrol GW is 18k on road...with fuel economy of lets say (being generous) 450km a tank , with tyres and brakes good for 90k or A BT50 22k on road with fuel economy of 700km a tank with heaps more torque and tyres and brakes that last twice as long.. you do the math

the tyres you have to remember they are light truck tyres, they are made for carrying loads so they are very strong in the sidewall especially and are nothing like regular car tyres..I am guilty of the occasional wheelspin and I get my thrills taking corners like a maniac.. there is lots of guys at work running a bt50 with nil issues that i know of, the 4wd guys have had a few however... as for the Great Wall, its a POS and most know that already..just thought I'd affirm it...

Russman....getting shit done

Yes, normal wear and tear is exactly what they would like you to think I imagine.. As long as people are stupid enough to believe that they keep making money.. But, the Bridgestones that come on my mazda are good for 180,000kms..whatever comes on the great wall (Kumhos i think) don't last half that long..as for pads, mine are probably about nearly due for a change but again, they have done 150,000 and are still ok..Im pretty sure he said he was on his 3rd set (not certain), but again they haven't lasted half as long.. as for the LPG, my old b2600 had an aftermarket LPG and did 230,000kms before it needed a new head due to burnt out valves, not a gasket.(my comp test was 45,120 115,0 and it was still hauling 800kg pallets..lol)....which is still a damn site more than this great wall has done..I replaced the head with hardened valves and did a further 250,000kms without issue..Even if he hadnt got the gas he would have spent quite alot more on fuel..making the initial saving on the vehicle pointless.. No, I dont run things to the ground, I service them as needed and not before, its how I make money I have got 200,000kms out of decent brake pads before (bendix ultimates actually) these were still good enough to pass a RWC when I sold it.. Also got 190,000 out of michelin tyres..but only 60,000 out of a set of nankangs..They were 3 times more expensive though.. At the end of the day, they say you get what you pay for but despite us paying roughly the same money the BT50 has not had a single issue while the GW has had many.. I could gaurentee you my ute would pass a RWC as it sits..Might need front pads, maybe...

I vote YAY!!! that stuff is the shecksy man I hope you stuck with it.. And to the bloke with the tartan that's pretty keep too..

oops I thought the gts4 was an rb25..

Dp

ahh crap..stock ecu...

It will still be shit..

Look up scottynm35 on here mate and shoot him a Pm , top bloke and can make just about anything you need..just south of dandy..

Yeah I thought so, I tried telling the missus but she was more interested in The Block. So I said don't worry about it, I may as well tell a bunch of people on the internet who don't care.. Tomorrow she will probably complain I spend too much time on here...

so just a quick comparo for anyone interested.. About 18 months ago I buy Mazda BT-50, few months later another guy at work who I suggested should buy a Mazda instead bought a Great Wall ...with LPG conversion the cost price of the great wall was equal to a new Mazda BT-50..fuel economy is equal $ per km.. now keeping in mind, me being a bit of a hoon I do give my ute a hard time, he is an older more mature driver and not a hoon that i know of..Both cars are seviced regularly with oil and filters as required.. Great Wall has done only 100,000kms ..has needed 4 new tyres and has already needed new brake pads, also at 90,000kms it blew a head gasket which wasnt covered under warranty due to having a gas system fitted, they quoted 4 weeks to fix which he said no to, when he tried to fix it himself despite having a mitsubishi engine not one of 3 different gaskets fit, leaving him off work for some time= more loss of income BT-50.. I have done 150,000kms now......I havent needed to change anything at all... Needless to say the poor bloke is wishing he had bought the mazda now...

SAM....you just got the wrong ebay special buddy READ THIS http://www.skylinesa...dynamics-turbo/ BUY THIS http://www.ebay.com....=item3f16ad8b6a ENJOY

yeah dale I was skeptical too, the guys who put it in for me do race/rally cars and such.. So I left it in their hands and thats whats been done, wish me luck...

I was advised that flywheel bolts should be tightened to higher than factory torque settings for HD clutches..I forget what setting they were done at but it was rather extreme.. the car my clutch was in previously hadn't done this and it came loose destroying the clutch..

Yup, a bolt came loose on my turbo starting making funny noises.. 18mths later and 10,000$ or so later I have a shed full of spare parts, new tools and twice as much power Oh yeah and I tightened that bolt

hell yeah thats a sexy little unit Mitch, mount it under the parcel shelf on some drawer runners so you can slide it in and out when you need to fill it i found this how to interesting http://www.turbomirage.com/water-alcohol-injection-installation-instructions.html

lol..yeah same, but if i had his i car i would probably wash it daily, or better yet get my supermodel girlfriend to do it in a bikini with lots of bubbles

alternatively you can just get the castrol vmx-m stuff for about 40$ then add a 500ml tube of Nulon 90 ...It should help a bit... Ive been told VMX_M was originally designed to fix notchy mitsubishi boxes... its probably not going to be as good as the redline but its a damn dight cheaper.. you know redline can be bought online for about 100$