ARTZ

Housing is cast, its made to take alot of heat and if it was going to warp, it would warp on your engine yeah.. I think it would take alot more than a welder to warp it..as long as you bolt it down to a flat surface when you weld it, it should be fine.. many people swear by it..

R33s redline so much better than R32s man you made the right choice ED* lolz at no FMIC

Im not sick, but Im not well, da da da daaaaaa

thats a huge penguin

after i test my stock manifold.. then we can get a back to back definate result as to how much improvement it is over a stock manifold..

you fabricate the housing yourself obviously Andy.. might try one that way myself as my gate is already on my housing..

silver R35 out front of my dentists, with my dentist hopping in it basterd

just cause I dislike Laurels http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/390173-for-sale-dr30-rs-turbo-8500ono/

lol @ blaming fuel... So the moral of the story is, your fuel should be fine but if it does bog down a little , put the clutch in before you hard throttle it...

stock manifold is good for 500 crank hp..

and that was why I didnt get one...lol

yeah i almost got one of them...they look solid enough... ...

I had the loom upside down when i wired it...

i think the only real miracle at kando Roy is the value for money

waiting for him to open new shop.few weeks yet I wired up that tomei pump for 14v yesterday and it doubled my fuel pressure...hit 6 bar..lol.. iAT sensor isnt sensing

that s13 holds peak torque for 3500rpm..that would be fast as f**k man..besides in a lightweight s13 a huge torque increase would be lethal,maybe its just been tuned that way.. Everyone loves the sl2 cause of intrenet yabba..there is no real results yet so few of us decided to try it, now everyone is jumping on the bandwagon before we has results... Sl2 will probaly only do around 260_280. On pulp..thats all we ever expected, and all the stock manifold can really deal with comfortably...what, you expected more??

yeah and then some. I never expected such a huge increase The pump started making a weird screech noises that had me worried, but it was ok once I dropped the fuel pressure back to 3 bar... I had thread the whole thread but I was still lost until I saw your diagram..a good picture tells a thousand words..

Ok so just did this exactly as per gumflapper description..using 5mm wire and a 15 amp fuse and wow!!!..fuel pressure went from 3 bar to 6 bar..

just thought this may be of interest... 3mm automotive wire is 1.13mm2 and rated to 10 amp 4mm automotive wire is 1.84mm2 and rated to 15 amp 5mm automotive wire is 2.9mm2 and rated to 25 amp 6mm automotive wire is 4.59mm2 and rated to 50 amp

yeah dont mind me im just rambling shit again

thats the problem with having a car sit around for ages then go straight for tuning..it goes from doing nothing for 6 months to full power runs on a dyno.. When my car has been sitting for months, It always takes a while to loosen everything up..a good hour long drive at least before it feels normal again and i feel confident to flog it a bit.. Problem is you need to do this before dyno tuning not after, bit hard when you have limited tuning skills though.. So its always a worry heading for the dyno after a build.

I went full retard... ended up costing as much as a new Bitz return flow for probably half of the effect, I have an IAT sensor now so I guess i will now how good/bad it is soon..The only real benefit to doing it this way is when your missus ditches your car off the road in the dirt you can drive home cause you didnt destroy your intercooelr in the process, oh and I didnt have to cut my reo..other than that its just f**king retarded

Weird, what would cause an inlet manifold gasket to blow, has it been off before? It always does

Wow..never knew this car had a thread..its been on my desktop for over a year...Love it..

LOL