ARTZ

lol..easy when you know how...as Paul said always check the simple thing first before you go messing with everything.. Did you reset your timing yet?

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i never said 300kw isnt awesome..must of been someone else bro... i would love 300kw just for the bragging rights.. It is pretty much useless on the street, but its good to have then you can always turn the boost down for daily driving..thus is the beauty of the turbo engine

odd that it had such big boost drop though.. Gate too big maybe? Or just too chinese... eD..mustang sally is up and running man, just needs a new windscreen.. Im waiting on scott to weld the housing and hes waiting on me to buy a gate..

stop confusing people with your knowledge Scott this.. + SL2 has a smaller compressor making it a better fit when low mounting..in theory it should also make it more responsive... Is all you really to know

oh yeah..forgot to mention dont forget z32 afm and metal intake pipe..decent coilpacks if you dont have already

yes sorry the lights would go dim and the starter would struggle.. But, after a full night of charging they wouldnt.. Then it would still have trouble starting, but it would start..so i drove it down to the shop, went to start it an hour later and it would crank but wouldnt go..battery would also drain if left for a week or 2 unnattended...all my elctrics are stock bar a turbo timer and a headunit Anyway now it starts first time, but not as smooth as it should be, idle hunts a little (very little) too..Its been sitting around for 4 months so i dont know may just be a little rusty cause it only happens when its cold.. As i said i think there is another issue...Im going to pull the starter out and grease it up on the weekend cause its driving me nuts and I will change my plugs and get back to you on that...

yeah sorry for the slight thread highjack..yours sounds like a diferent problem..

nope it would crank ok, although not as good as it does with the new battery.. lights would be alright everything ..it just wouldnt fire...guy at the battery shop said it just didnt have enough Cold Cranking Amps. eventually when it had warmed up a little it would fire and once it did it would run, but i know at least once the plugs fouled up.. It starts first crank now though it sometimes stalls out straight away, so its still not starting 100% and my starter squeals like a pig when it does I feel there is another issue, I'm not sure what yet might just be the plugs still..

yes u are right.. My only defense is that yeah, I only crank it a few hits at a time and sometimes it would magically fix itself i had a feeling it was the battery and when i got it going I went straight to local battery shop to have it checked..first thing he said is thats a piece of junk battery and its dead...was a 320cca power crank..was in it when I bought it..

I have an R33 gtst..its a never ending problem But seriously mine hs done this a few times and its always been fouled plugs. Always keep a spare set in your toolbox .also just recently the battery..I would charge it all night and it still didnt want to fire..however if I plugged in the battery charger on its engine start function it would start..battery was just rooted..it would crank but wouldnt fire the coils..then plugs would foul form too much cranking...New battery with 430cca she now cranks like a baws....problem solved..

I have an R33 gtst..its a never ending problem

ahhh..trust not watercooled... i beleive Roy is talking about billet comp wheels Scott..probably the ones on ebay..350$ though.. eD* It all makes sense now

whats not watercooled, my kando is watercooled isnt it..? If its not what are alll these extra fittings for....

Bahahaa.....LEND your ex wife money ......Good luck with that

it was on disply at nissan HQ in Dandenong a while ago I saw it there..not sure, I will have a look but if you're planning a robbery I want a spotters fee

haha exactly what i was thinking... I did the same with my old lawn mower..just cause bloody thing just wouldnt start..I never did like that lawn mower

man when i said it should be easy for you, I thought you had a shop ..wait u do have a shop dont you..im confused .. Anyway ,good work fellas

you think too much man....

yeah so keeping in my mind on an rb25 you will ideally want the 10cm(.73) rear on all EG variants..all you really need to know is 20g for low mount or 25g for top mount..everything else isnt really too important.. Just trying to simplify it cause there is just too many variants...

if your going to highmount get the T67-25g...if not TDo6SL2 or H,SH 20g.. Seems to me its that simple really..

yeah thats what im hoping, if you have to get a new manifold though it would be the 67 for sure.. See what happens..might try a screamer initially just cause I never had one before..lol.. Is yours..?? there was that T67 that had the smaller comp cover...they dont have any for sale now..

isnt the problem that the stock manifold simply wont flow enough for a t67 to do its best... Thats why i didnt bother with it..SL2 seemed like a better match..I can always hide a gate..

some good prices on that site,.....whats the shipping like though??

I see...well I must admit 2 years ago I didnt even know what a wastegate was...so forgive my ignorance...